ZombieHunter26 Posted December 24, 2011 Posted December 24, 2011 I know there's plenty of rust tutorials in here, but I'd like to share my wonderful way of making my own personal rustwash (In bulk, no less). A quick disclaimer- I am not responsible for any mishaps if you decide to try this at home. I trust that if you decide to try this, you will be professional and cautious, and USE COMMON SENSE. That being said... Here's what you'll need: 1/2 pkg Rhodes American Steel Wool (Grade #0000, super fine) A large plastic container 1/2 cup vinegar 1 cup chlorine bleach *****SAFETY FIRST***** This technique releases toxic chlorine gases. DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT!! DO THIS INSIDE. WEAR LATEX GLOVES, A PAINT FUME RESPIRATOR AND GOGGLES, AND DO THIS IN A VERY WELL VENTILATED AREA, LIKE AN OPEN GARAGE OR OUTSIDE. Take your steel wool and unravel it, placing it lightly inside your plastic container. fill your container only about half full, you don't want to make too much of this at once. Pour your vinegar over the steel wool slowly, making sure to saturate it. Then CAREFULLY pour your chlorine bleach over the steel wool in the same fashion. Do not cover(you do NOT want to keep the chlorine gases from escaping, the result of opening a pressurized container with chlorine gases can result in mild chemical burns), and place in a safe, well ventilated area. I did this at night, and let it sit overnight. When you check it in the morning, your container should have a good bit of rusty, brown buildup at the bottom of it. Carefully remove the remaining steel wool(draining it as you go) and place it in a resealable container. You can reuse this steel wool for more rust wash later(and the good thing is, it will work faster- it's already begun rusting!). Carefully pour your brown, murky liquid into an empty plastic soda bottle, it should fill it about 3/4 of the way. Fill the rest of the way carefully with tap water to completely neutralize the solution. You then cap it, give it a good shake, and let sit for a few hours. The next time you check, your bottle should have a good bit of dark brown buildup on the bottom, with clear-ish water up top. I drained the clear water by setting the bottle on a board over a spare bucket, and carefully drilling a small hole right above the buildup. this allows the solution to drain while leaving behind the stuff I use as rust wash. It smells a little funny but is safe for use as a wash. As with any paint, solvent, glue, or other chemical used in building your model, be careful with it. You can store your wash in a plastic bottle that has a wide top to allow for brush insertion, and a cap. No worries about the gases, the solution is no longer producing a toxic gas so it's safe to cap off. Each time I do this, I come up with about 3oz of rustwash, which is more than enough for a few cars, tanks, or whatever it is you want to give a good rust color/texture to. PLEASE BE CAREFUL if you use this technique. If you do not feel confident that you can do this without endangering yourself, DO NOT TRY IT. Also, if you are under the age of 18, have a capable adult help you, or do it for you.
Foxer Posted December 24, 2011 Posted December 24, 2011 This is quite a chemical soup as I've only heard of people just adding water to fine steel wool for rust powder. And, yes, we all want to see the results in some photos.
crazyjim Posted December 24, 2011 Posted December 24, 2011 Yeah pics. If there's no pics, then it didn't happen.
VW Dave Posted December 24, 2011 Posted December 24, 2011 On 12/24/2011 at 1:38 PM, crazyjim said: Yeah pics. If there's no pics, then it didn't happen. I agree....a tutorial without pics is just chatter IMO. To be honest, I'm not sure how I feel about a technique that produces chlorine gas
Harry P. Posted December 24, 2011 Posted December 24, 2011 Photos would be a big plus, I agree. Also... We all assume your technique works, that's not the problem... but given all of the warnings you mentioned, isn't it so much easier to just buy a ready-made commercially available non-toxic rust product like the stuff the model railroad guys use? http://www.rustall.com/
ZombieHunter26 Posted December 24, 2011 Author Posted December 24, 2011 (edited) On 12/24/2011 at 4:53 PM, Harry P. said: Photos would be a big plus, I agree. Also... We all assume your technique works, that's not the problem... but given all of the warnings you mentioned, isn't it so much easier to just buy a ready-made commercially available non-toxic rust product like the stuff the model railroad guys use? http://www.rustall.com/ It would be easier, but I was sharing an easy way to do it with stuff around the house. Not knocking those who choose to put money down on it, I was just giving an alternative to those who could do it safely and wanted to save a buck or two. Plus, I thought it was cooler than anything to watch the process go down... it's kind of awesome knowing my high school chemistry class didn't go to waste LOL. I will post up some pics, next time I make some(I am running just a tad low on wash), because when I made this it was back when I was without my camera. ::EDIT:: While this technique DOES produce a fine rust powder, I keep it immersed in a small amount of water to use it for rust "runoff" for industrial scenes, as well as a more even coating for a true "gunky, rusty" feel. It's a bit of a process, but I do everything I can on the cheap until I get back into some finances. Edited December 24, 2011 by ZombieHunter26
ZombieHunter26 Posted December 24, 2011 Author Posted December 24, 2011 On 12/24/2011 at 1:27 PM, Foxer said: This is quite a chemical soup as I've only heard of people just adding water to fine steel wool for rust powder. Water is a much safer alternative, and I would recommend you to use that technique over the one I use if you have the patience for it. Water by itself will work wonderfully, but much slower.
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