Bare metal foil

[wgflatliner]

Alright so I'm looking for ways to improve my model building and I believe I seriously need some advice on bare metal foil.

All it took was me looking at the body of the Hudson hornet for me to bring this up, simply because I don't want to put all this effort to make this car top notch in my eyes, only to be detracted in quality by a subpar foil job.

The tools I have at my disposal:

Burnishing tool with multiple tips and such

Toothpicks (thanks chipotle!)

The self adhesive bare metal foil

Internet for reference photos

Here's where I think I do ok:

I can burnish the trim around the windows and such perfectly fine.

I use brand new number 11 blades, marking the tip of the blade with a black sharpie so I don't press to hard with the blade.

I let the weight of the exacto alone do the work of cutting so not to damage the paint.

Here's where I need help:

Trimming the inside of the trim, the areas that fold inside the body like the headliner making it look tacky.

Knowing where to start with laying down the foil on long runners like the lower panel trim on the hornet, so it doesn't tear the foil.

Small areas of trim like to lift off the body when trying to trim it.

Questions:

I have heard there was a difference between the ultra bright chrome and new improved chrome, hearing that the new improved was actually worse. Any input on this?

I clear coat with future floor wax. Would it make sense to foil it first, then future over the top? Would that keep the foil seated?

Is the bare metal foil closer to scale in terms of shine as opposed to alclad chrome?

I want to improve my abilities here, so any advice would be gladly accepted. If you post pics of your foil work, that would validate your advice, too.

Thanks guys

[Guest]

Here's where I need help:

Trimming the inside of the trim, the areas that fold inside the body like the headliner making it look tacky.

Knowing where to start with laying down the foil on long runners like the lower panel trim on the hornet, so it doesn't tear the foil.

Small areas of trim like to lift off the body when trying to trim it.

Questions:

I have heard there was a difference between the ultra bright chrome and new improved chrome, hearing that the new improved was actually worse. Any input on this?

I clear coat with future floor wax. Would it make sense to foil it first, then future over the top? Would that keep the foil seated?

Is the bare metal foil closer to scale in terms of shine as opposed to alclad chrome?

I want to improve my abilities here, so any advice would be gladly accepted. If you post pics of your foil work, that would validate your advice, too.

Thanks guys

I know people won't agree with this, but I cut my foil off on the edge of the inside of the trim. I don't let it wrap around to the inside. I haven't had a single problem with doing it this way.

On wide pieces of trim, start on one edge and finish on the other. Take you time and fully burnish it.

Very small trim pieces are usually easier to paint with chrome paint. If you're referring to locks,use photo etch. Scripts can be be foiled before primer and paint,then revealed by polishing them or using a matchstick soaked in thinner,but not dripping wet.

Personally,I haven't noticed a big difference between the ultra bright and the regular. The ultra bright may be a touch thinner.

I wouldn't put future over the chrome foil. Future will yellow over time. Especially the new Pledge with Future shine. I have a bottle that has yellowed while still inside the bottle. It's around a year and a half to two years old. Foil that is applied correctly does NOT need to be sealed. The best way to seat the foil is take a clean cotton cloth and rub it down really well after you have trimmed it. This will also make the foil have a better shine.

Edited February 16, 2012 by plowboy

[Gregg]

Roger, that Green Chevy is one of the nicest photos I have seen in a while.

I'm serious.

I am impressed, very impressed.

Unless, of course, you are going to tell me that you accidentally posted a pic of your real car....

Sorry to steal the thread.

One thing I look for on models on the table is a flawless chrome trim, especially around the windows.

Take the time to sand and polish the window/windshield frame, moldings, etc., BEFORE you put the Bare-Metal Foil down.

BMF will make all imperfections look 1,000 times worse.

I also polish the BMF with metal polish before I put it on.

I do this on a piece of glass before I cut it out.

[Harry P.]

That's weird... I see a blue Chevy!

[Evil Appetite]

Wow..they really do look like they're 1:1...great work!

[LoneWolf15]

Two points to add .... Tamiya sells cotton applicators in 4 different sizes , all come to a point and do not have the fuzziness associated with Q Tips . Extremely useful for burnishing foil into recessed areas ! Available at your local hobby shop .

Squadron scapel blades are even better than the standard no.11 when it comes to sharpness and finesse when applying bare metal foil . The slightest amount of pressure produces razor thin cuts with extremely clean lines both straight and curved .

There is quite a bit of difference between the ultra bright and new and improved foil . The ultra bright is extremely thin , has a tendency to roll up once it's peeled from the backing , and years much easier when it's being burnished down . I would stick with the new and improved , it's much easier to work with .

[Gregg]

That's weird... I see a blue Chevy!

Harry, go to your room...

[Dr. Cranky]

I use Donn's method and it works swell (Gee, who uses "swell" as a word anymore?). Gregg, I gotta try the polishing next model I build. Thanks for all this great info, folks!

[Guest]

Thanx Gregg,I appreciate the compliment! I wish it was my real car. My first real car was a '66 Caprice. I gotta build a replica of it someday.

Another thing I'll add to the BMF discussion is that it is much easier to foil wing glass frames with one solid piece of foil. If you cut the foil in the approximate shape of the frame,there is no more waste than cutting three seperate strips. The best part is no laps!