It sploded!

[Harry P.]

When I do that process, only a tiny bit of paint comes out at first, then it's just air.

The whole point of doing the "upside-down" spray thing is to clear the siphon tube (and nozzle) of paint (as you know). A small can has a shorter siphon tube, so it takes less time (and less paint) to blow it clean. On big cans (Rustoleum size), the tube is a lot longer and has a lot more paint in it. I've tried clearing big cans that way and it takes a good 3-4-5 seconds or more for all the paint in the tube to be sprayed out. Given the fact that when you use a spray can you're already basically blowing the vast majority of the paint right past the part and into the air, using up even more by doing the upside-down routine doesn't leave all that much paint in the can to actually cover the stuff you're painting!

[Guest]

I always remove my nozzles as soon as I'm done spraying and put them in a jar of thinner. That way,they never have a chance to dry out and clog up and they always spray just like a new nozzle. I've never done the turning the can upside down and spraying method. Even if one doesn't lose much paint,they will still lose propellant.

I've also experienced the seeping out at the top of the cans,but I figured it was where I had them stored in an outside building where there are substantial temperature changes. I now keep them inside and haven't experienced the problem again. I've had it happen with both Testors enamels and laquers.

I've always been a little apprehensive about heating up paint cans with hot water. A half hour before I'm ready to paint, I place my paint can on my central heat register in my hobby room where the temp never goes above seventy nine degrees. I also place my painted bodys over them after they have dried a little.

[sjordan2]

This may have happened to some people, but as for me, I've never had a can run out of propellant before it runs out of paint. Just 2-3 short squirts is all it takes.

Edited January 8, 2012 by sjordan2