What is the best way to putty resin parts?

[Sergey]

Hello, Comrads!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to every one.

At the moment I'm working on DuraStar resin cab and need to fill some scratches. What do you usually use to fiil resin parts? What will last longer in handling?

I incline to use 5 min epoxy as a putty. Wat do you think?

[monkeyclaw]

Pinholes and voids are easiest filled using ZAP & baking soda....cheap and fast! Scratches should probably be done with putty;...automotive glazing or "spot" putty works well....these are usually Lacquer based....so prime FIRST!!!! Every model you ask will have their own brand of putty they use; but they all pretty much work the same way....5 min epoxy is not a good choice....it dries VERY hard; and is difficult to get back down to level with sorrounding areas.....you could also try using a Filler primer; which has a high solid content; these primers a re best for building a good surface from scratches or eggshell surface....I hope this helps..........Matt

[scale trucker]

x2 with what matt said

[Gregg]

I always use a two-part putty, like the Evercoat one.

Lately, I have been trying the Bondo, the higher priced one with the aluminum or metal in it.

[warra48]

With all due respects, why do we need to prime RESIN first?

It's not styrene, and I don't believe it is adversely affected by lacquer paints/thinners/fillers, or by any of the epoxy types.

[cowboysevens]

I use bondo spot and glazing putty on all my plastic and resin now, just becarefull of water based fillers cause they will shrink as they dry. I learned that the hard way!! Lol

[Steven Zimmerman]

I thought the same thing when he mentioned 'prime first'..BUT the new automotive spot fillers actually adhere better to primer than resin, and they recommend applying over primer. As usual, be sure you clean the resin with bleche white, or whatever the caster recommends to remove the parting agent, or you will have problems down the line....'Z'

[monkeyclaw]

I always recommend the "prime first" before puttying on any surface; especially when using lacquer based putties....these putties are designed to "etch", and to do so require a base to etch into....that's why they will melt the plastic when you use them on styrene... Plastic fillers like bondo are also designed to etch; and are more like to lift or peel up if applied directly to plastic or resin...Hey, sometimes you just get luckyand it all works, regardless of prep. As far as clean up of resin parts; I only recommend a commercial greade dewax & prep solvent (like PREPSOL); and have never subscribed to the Bleche white theory myself...Immersion prior to painting can leave moisture in the substrate of the resin part; as it is porous (small as it may be)... the trapped moisture has a way of finding it's way out when you apply the paint (especially HOT paint) .Once the chemical reaction that cures the paint starts to take place, there is no stopping it; you WILL end up with fisheyes, or other malodies. I have been doing it for a long time; and try to follow the steps on each and every paint job....this for me is one area where you just can't take shortcuts; as the paint quality is the 1st thing people notice about a model; and it often sets the "tone" for how the rest of the build goes... Jus' sayin' Matt

[Steven Zimmerman]

I am fairly experienced in working with resin also, and have never had a problem with bleche white. That is what most resin casters reccommend. I don't soak it overnight, asIi believe it's strong enough to do the job in an hour or two, and then I scrub with soap and water, taking care not to use a soap containingsilicone, then scrub the resin down with comet and water, then water, then dry with paper towels, then air dry over night. I have never had fish eye, paint lift, wrinkle, or craze when using this system. i paint with an airbrush, detail gun, or can and have used this with acrylic enamel, automotive lacquer, dupli color cans,Krylon,Rustoleum, and basecoat/clearcoat automotive paint...Having said that, Matt has a point, that being 'whatever works for you'. I'm sure there are forum members out there who don't subscribe to EITHER theory (GRIN)....

[scalenut]

bondo spot putty was >always< designed to go on top of primer..in the 1:1 world at least

Edited January 12, 2012 by scalenut