Paint and Polish

[Stang88]

Hey guys, new to car modelling and looking for advice before I paint my first body. I have heard the debates of enamels thinned with laqueor thinner is the way to go as no primer coat needed (Don Yosts way), but a few issues, I don't have an airbrush, I have searched high and low where I live (Canada) and can not find Novus or The Treatment wax anywhere.

I have a Canadian Tire that sells Duplicolor, huge selection but I assume these laqueor paints are hot and need a primer, but with primer and then paint from spray cans I am concerned with hiding details with all these paint coats. And what would be the best clear coat for these. What car polish and wax would be the best in this case?

Then there is Tamiya, no primer required, heard the sprays are pricy but beautiful, i also heard you have to wait forever to clear coat Tamiya spray paints with Tamiya clear coat, is this true? How long? And what would be the best car polish and wax for these types of paints/

Would appreciate all the feedback and guideance you can all provide.

[a/gass]

rattel can or not i primer every thing first.

[jayhkr]

Actually Donn does use a "primer". He uses the Metalizer from Testor's. It's not a traditional primer, but it seems to work!

[Rob McKee]

Hey Michael,

Duplicolor is good paint but yes you do have to use a primer. It is very thin and as long as you apply the primer and paint in mist coats you won't hide the detail. I have had good results with duplicolor but I have also had some disapointments.

If you are just getting back into the hobby and want to get good results I would recommend Tamiya. Use their primer and color and you won't be disapointed with the results.

Just my 2 cents.

Rob

[Rob McKee]

Sorry, I forgot the wax.

I just use regular Meguiars wax from Canadian Tire.

[jaymcminn]

Don't worry too much about primer hiding surface detail. I use DupliColor sandable primers and primer-sealer and have never had to worry about it- lacquer primers shrink down to the surface, so you can lay down a few coats before losing any detail. I usually use DupliColor primers straight from the can. As far as Tamiya paint goes, I've never tried it without primer, but it's good stuff. I clearcoat it with Testors One Coat Clear after about two days drying time. The Testors lacquers, both OneCoat and Custom Lacquer System, also work well. As far as polish goes, I've used Meguiar's Number 7 Professional for years, although I've recently started playing around with their new Ultimate Compound. One of the biggest advantages to using lacquers, be they hobby or automotive, is the ability to use high-quality automotive polishes on the paint.

[Dr. Cranky]

Michael, as you will find out from everyone's answers, you will see that there a many approaches to painting models and getting shiny results. You have to find out (through trial and error and lots of practice) what will work best for you. My advice is to always practice on either a scrap body or plastic spoons. You will save a few models that way. I think you can get excellent results using rattle cans. Tamiya makes lots of wonderful products . . . start simple and go from there. Best wishes, DC

[Stang88]

Thanks for all the replies. I know there is trial and error but I just don't want to spend too much coin testing things, that is why I wanted some feedback from others who have done the trial and error and see what there feedback was. My biggest things were how long the Tamiya or Duplicolor paints have to dry before clear coating, what is a good clear coat, how long does that have to dry before micro mesh. I also wanted to know what polish and wax people were using. I have heard some good things about Meg. Sratch X polish but not too much on wax brands.