SuperStockAndy Posted April 24, 2012 Posted April 24, 2012 (edited) Get rid of clear coat fogging? Kind of hard to see in the picture: I used enamel clear coat. I sanded it with 12,000 grit for a few minutes but that didn't really do much. Thanks Edited April 24, 2012 by SuperStockAndy
Casey Posted April 24, 2012 Posted April 24, 2012 You need to start with the coarsest grit polishing cloth which removes the orange peel first. You need to get the paint surface even first, then use progressively finer grit polishing cloths to make finer and finer scratches, until the naked eye can no longer see the scratches. Even with 12,000 grit, there are still scratches.
SuperStockAndy Posted April 24, 2012 Author Posted April 24, 2012 You need to start with the coarsest grit polishing cloth which removes the orange peel first. You need to get the paint surface even first, then use progressively finer grit polishing cloths to make finer and finer scratches, until the naked eye can no longer see the scratches. Even with 12,000 grit, there are still scratches. The only problem is though...I don't have anything between 2000 and 12000 grit
Casey Posted April 24, 2012 Posted April 24, 2012 The only problem is though...I don't have anything between 2000 and 12000 grit Then you should buy a polishing kit.
SuperStockAndy Posted April 24, 2012 Author Posted April 24, 2012 Then you should buy a polishing kit. Kinda pricey for me though
CadillacPat Posted April 25, 2012 Posted April 25, 2012 But Andy, You just wrote this in your reply to the AirBrush Rant thread, "Art, I can easily afford a really good airbrush, but I'm saving up for other things." You can buy 200 - 12000 grade Wet/Dry Sandpaper in any good Hafdware Store for about 90 cents a sheet. Or you can order small individual emery cloths in these grades for about 3 bucks apiece through MicroMark. So, it looks like a priority thing, A good AirBrush, proper sanding tools or,------other things!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat
SuperStockAndy Posted April 25, 2012 Author Posted April 25, 2012 But Andy, You just wrote this in your reply to the AirBrush Rant thread, "Art, I can easily afford a really good airbrush, but I'm saving up for other things." You can buy 200 - 12000 grade Wet/Dry Sandpaper in any good Hafdware Store for about 90 cents a sheet. Or you can order small individual emery cloths in these grades for about 3 bucks apiece through MicroMark. So, it looks like a priority thing, A good AirBrush, proper sanding tools or,------other things!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat The cheapest I found was a $16 Micro Mark set...that was only a quick search. I don't really have much access to a hardware or hobby shop by the way.
Kris Morgan Posted April 25, 2012 Posted April 25, 2012 The polishing kit will be money well spent. You should get years of service from it.
CadillacPat Posted April 25, 2012 Posted April 25, 2012 Andy, I wouldn't worry about a Polishing Kit for that paint in the pictures. It looks like you have had any number of things go wrong here and I don't think polishing will correct them. High humidity will fog Enamel Clears (you don't say what brand, manufacturer or even Aerosol or AirBrush) in a heartbeat. You can see how rough your Clear is from the tiny air bubbles bursting and leaving little bitty craters. Or, Gases still evaporating from the color layer, or even beneath, Or, How long did you wait in between color coat and Clear? Was the model clean and dry when you Cleared it? Lots and lots of possibilities but you would need to give a detailed accounting of your procedure. Honestly, I would strip it. Give it a better try. CadillacPat
SuperStockAndy Posted April 25, 2012 Author Posted April 25, 2012 Andy, I wouldn't worry about a Polishing Kit for that paint in the pictures. It looks like you have had any number of things go wrong here and I don't think polishing will correct them. High humidity will fog Enamel Clears (you don't say what brand, manufacturer or even Aerosol or AirBrush) in a heartbeat. You can see how rough your Clear is from the tiny air bubbles bursting and leaving little bitty craters. Or, Gases still evaporating from the color layer, or even beneath, Or, How long did you wait in between color coat and Clear? Was the model clean and dry when you Cleared it? Lots and lots of possibilities but you would need to give a detailed accounting of your procedure. Honestly, I would strip it. Give it a better try. CadillacPat Not high humidity, around 60 degrees F here. It's cheap Dollar General clear, straight from the can. The rest of the body turned out great, except that bit of fogging on the roof. The car was painted with lacquer, and had well over a month to cure. So that's definitely not the problem. The model was indeed clean and dry. I'm not stripping it, I finally got a somewhat decent paint job! :lol:
Casey Posted April 25, 2012 Posted April 25, 2012 Not high humidity, around 60 degrees F here. It's cheap Dollar General clear, straight from the can. Humidity is not the same as temperature. It's a measure of the amount of water vapor in the air- basically how "wet" the air is. Pat is right on the money- fogging with oil-based enamel paints is often caused by high humidity. You might want to try a clear lacquer instead.
SuperStockAndy Posted April 25, 2012 Author Posted April 25, 2012 You might want to try a clear lacquer instead. The only reason I used enamel is because I'm out of lacquer
1930fordpickup Posted April 25, 2012 Posted April 25, 2012 If you go to any car show's this summer checkout the cheap tool guy. they sometimes sell sandpaper cheap , it is wet dry paper . they sell by the pack not single sheets.
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