Which filler is best?

[Smart-Resins]

Alright guys I wanted to try evercoats filler, but no one local sells it and it is too expensive to buy online in the gallon size with shipping. Soo....... guess I have to settle with Bondo from Wally World. My question is what is best,the regular,the silver, the ultra gold or the goop resin stuff?? I have always used theliquid cement and plastic before, but figure it would be cheaper and better and easierfor the body filler, so help me choose what to use.Thanks.

[bobss396]

IMHO, if you have to use a lot of any type of bondo, you'd be better off getting it to near-net shape with plastic first and use a minimum of a spot putty.

I use Nitrostan glazing putty. This is for 1:1 cars and comes in red oxide, white and gray. It shrinks minimally (which is not a problem with a dehydrator) and sands extremely well. I've used others like Cargroom, 3M and Bondo, but prefer the big tube of Nitrostan, which used to be known as red lead years ago. Now it comes without the lead.

Bob

[MrObsessive]

I echo what Bob said about fillers........................Yes, if you have a lot of bodywork to do, it's best to use as much plastic as possible and then fill in the rest with putty. My personal favorite is Dynatron Putty-Cote (a Bondo product). It's a two part mix, feather edges beautifully, and is readily available at my local auto body supply shop.

Here's a few pics of Dynatron in action.........................

This was a project I was working on a while back but got stalled due to some unobtainium parts (until recently).........a '55 Ford Victoria being converted from AMT's '56.

Note the gap being filled in with sheet plastic..............The roof had to be split because the AMT body was a little too wide for the Lindberg '53 Ford roof--------even though they're the same scale!

Now I primer the area with sandable primer (Krylon) and then apply the Dynatron when the primer is dry.............

Once the putty is dry, sand and feather edge everything down and you'll be good to go!

Yes, this'll be on track for me to finish after I finish the Magnum!

As Bluesman Mark mentioned, the cheap Bondo should be just fine.....................I'm kinda stuck on my Dynatron because it's worked so well for me in the past.

HTH!

[Harry P.]

Ditto on good old Bondo, the same stuff Mark uses. It's cheap, readily available and works great. I see no reason to use anything more "exotic". All 2-part catalyzed putties are pretty much the same, and I don't think that Evercoat's premium price is justified by any appreciably better results, as far as model car work goes.

[Smart-Resins]

Thanks guys. I was very temptedto get the bondo after having no luck with finding evercoat. Seeing the ultra, gold silver ect. was a little confused. But ya guys say keep tothe basics and thus I will. Mr.Obsessive, thanksfor the pics, they help show the feathering. I like the idea to keep to glueing my edges together then using either styrene or my liguid plasticto strengthen the joint, then smooting things out with the bondo. See, I am working on the 1/16 mustang funny car conversion and havine trouble with the hood area, so decided I would try the bondo here as the liquid plastic is way to hard to easily sand down.You guys are great.

[Tom Kren]

I just started using evercoat and i like it before i was using the testor and squarter[sp] The guys in the club use the evercoat and thought i would try it so far i like it but got a powerful smell to it.

[Modelmartin]

I use some real fine grained bondo which feather-edges real nice but for serious gap-filling and shape making I use Milliput epoxy putty. The stuff is real nice and it is really strong and does not stink! I echo several of you about the need to get it as close as possible in plastic before putty is applied.