stulee11 Posted August 12, 2012 Posted August 12, 2012 hi there all... i am desperate need of some help. tho kit i am doing i have rubbed it down with 800 to get rid of the mold lines, then with 1000 and 2000. but when i painted it its left with a horrible texture. as you can see i used this very same process on my previous model and turned out near flawless please could someone help me in fixing this thanks stu
cobraman Posted August 12, 2012 Posted August 12, 2012 Did you prime and wet sand ? Maybe the weather conditions the day you painted ?
Ace-Garageguy Posted August 12, 2012 Posted August 12, 2012 Your photo looks to me like "lacquer crazing", which happens when the solvents in hotter paint attack the plastic. Polystyrenes from different manufacturers and periods react differently with paints, and it's sometimes pretty frustrating to deal with. I've had identical Revell kits produced at different periods....one did this and the other didn't with the same paint. It's a good precaution to always paint the backside of a part, like the inside of the roof, to see if there will be any adverse reaction BEFORE painting the parts that show. I learned this the hard way. Usually, the crazing can be prevented by priming with something like Duplicolor or Plasticoat (spraybomb stuff for 1:1 cars over here) prior to color-coating. If the problem IS lacquer crazing, it's probably NOT going to be possible to strip it, as the paint has very permanently melted into the surface of the plastic. It can be saved by priming and sanding to get a smooth surface again, but some detail will be lost because of the requisite thickness of the material. Maybe a good time to build the model with shaved handles, drip rails, etc. I've had to do this too.
stulee11 Posted August 12, 2012 Author Posted August 12, 2012 hi thanks for the help... would it help if i was to prime with a fine filler primer ??
Ace-Garageguy Posted August 12, 2012 Posted August 12, 2012 hi thanks for the help... would it help if i was to prime with a fine filler primer ?? Yes, definitely. Also, the paint that crazed the surface SOMETIMES works as a barrier to prevent further crazing when top-coated again, but priming is your best bet.
stulee11 Posted August 12, 2012 Author Posted August 12, 2012 Yes, definitely. Also, the paint that crazed the surface SOMETIMES works as a barrier to prevent further crazing when top-coated again, but priming is your best bet. sweet thanks buddy
CadillacPat Posted August 14, 2012 Posted August 14, 2012 Can you give a detailed account of the steps you took and what paints you used? CadillacPat
stulee11 Posted August 14, 2012 Author Posted August 14, 2012 Hi what i did at first was i sanded with 800 wet n dry to get rid of all the mould lines... then wet sanded with 1000 to flaten out all the scuffs. Then did the same with 1500, 2000 and 2500. Then washed it with warm water. Then once dry i cleaned the whole thing with pannel wipe... then applyed the primer let that set and sanded with 2500. Then applyed the paint. And thats as far as i got lol..... the paint i am using is 'AUTOMOTIVE SPRAY PAINT' i have used the same brand from the same shop on all of my models ... Thanks stu
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