Kyle Posted August 14, 2012 Posted August 14, 2012 Here is a project that I recently started. I'm not sure what colour or decals I will use on the build, but have made a little progress anyway. I'm trying something new on this build, and that is aluminum milling. I have turned parts on my lathe before, but have never attempted milling. I started on the motor first. I milled some rocker covers and started wiring the magneto/spark plugs. I see from my close-up pictures that I will need to touch up some paint near the magneto. I also milled a radiator out of aluminum. I added Detail Master photo-etch rad material as well. Thanks for looking.
Dr. Cranky Posted August 14, 2012 Posted August 14, 2012 Wonderful details you are building into this one already.
Kyle Posted August 16, 2012 Author Posted August 16, 2012 Thanks for the kind words. I don't have much to update today. I was mostly cleaning up mold lines on the body and frame and looking for some reference pictures. I'd like to wire and plumb as much of the car as possible, but I'm totally clueless on where to run some of the lines. If anyone can help me out I'd appreciate it. In the attached picture, there is a braided line coming from the firewall. I'm assuming that is the fuel line from the tank, to a filter, to the pump, to the injectors (correct?). There is a line below that one (zip tied to the rad hose). I have no idea what that is. Next, coming from a gauge looks like oil pressure and pretty straight forward. Next, there are three lines from the gauge panel that disappear. I'm assuming that one is water temp and goes into the block somewhere, but the other two I'm stumped. If anyone wants to share their knowledge, again, it would be much appreciated.
Kyle Posted August 17, 2012 Author Posted August 17, 2012 I managed to make a little progress on this one today. I have decided on colours. It will be two-tone red and beige. I painted the lower body pan and frame red. I also started on the rear end. I also didn't like the way that the cam covers turned out before, so I re-worked them and now they look more like the real thing. I finished wiring the magneto as well. Thanks for looking.
vintagedragfan Posted August 17, 2012 Posted August 17, 2012 nice work Kyle, working with aluminum is awesome!
bryan_m Posted August 17, 2012 Posted August 17, 2012 very nice! great milling work.......keep up the good work, lookin forward to seeing more! cheers bryan
Doctordarryl Posted August 17, 2012 Posted August 17, 2012 Thanks for the kind words. I don't have much to update today. I was mostly cleaning up mold lines on the body and frame and looking for some reference pictures. I'd like to wire and plumb as much of the car as possible, but I'm totally clueless on where to run some of the lines. If anyone can help me out I'd appreciate it. In the attached picture, there is a braided line coming from the firewall. I'm assuming that is the fuel line from the tank, to a filter, to the pump, to the injectors (correct?). There is a line below that one (zip tied to the rad hose). I have no idea what that is. Next, coming from a gauge looks like oil pressure and pretty straight forward. Next, there are three lines from the gauge panel that disappear. I'm assuming that one is water temp and goes into the block somewhere, but the other two I'm stumped. If anyone wants to share their knowledge, again, it would be much appreciated. Nice start on the midget. Revell did a great job on that kit. Look in the Under Glass topic to see midgets that i built. The Offy midgets had three gauges (note that the Revell dash has 4 gauges, which I'll get back to in a minute). The three gauges on an Offy midget were; water temp, fuel pressure, and oil pressure. Scale Auto Details has a resin 3-gauge dash and gauge decals for the Revell Offy midget kit. The Revell dash was modeled after a V8-60 midget. Those midgets had 4 gauges, two water temp gauges (one for each cylinder bank), fuel pressure, and oil pressure. I hope that helps.
Kyle Posted August 18, 2012 Author Posted August 18, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the nice comments guys. I wasn't going to work on this car today, but then I saw your comments and it motivated me to get a little bit done. Darryl, thanks for the info. I think I'll try to scratch-build an instrument panel with three gauges. I also like your builds. I finished the rear end. I also painted the main body piece. I think this colour combination will work well. I like it a lot. Here are some pics of a few pieces mocked up. It's starting to look like a vehicle now. Unfortunately, I got some crazing at the back of the body piece. I painted it outside, so humidity may have been a factor. I also used used a different brand of primer than I usually do, so that may be the problem. I'll see if I can sand it out and respray the beige. I hope I will not have to strip it. Next up is more machining. I'll finish the intake, make a few gauges, and maybe some drum brakes. I found this reference picture and thought the finned drums looked awesome. We'll see if I get ambitious. Thanks for looking. Edited August 18, 2012 by Kyle
Ace-Garageguy Posted August 18, 2012 Posted August 18, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the kind words. I don't have much to update today. I was mostly cleaning up mold lines on the body and frame and looking for some reference pictures. I'd like to wire and plumb as much of the car as possible, but I'm totally clueless on where to run some of the lines. If anyone can help me out I'd appreciate it. In the attached picture, there is a braided line coming from the firewall. I'm assuming that is the fuel line from the tank, to a filter, to the pump, to the injectors (correct?). There is a line below that one (zip tied to the rad hose). I have no idea what that is. Next, coming from a gauge looks like oil pressure and pretty straight forward. Next, there are three lines from the gauge panel that disappear. I'm assuming that one is water temp and goes into the block somewhere, but the other two I'm stumped. If anyone wants to share their knowledge, again, it would be much appreciated. The squiggly line running to the top of the cylinder head is water temp. Absolutely positively. You're correct about the braided line being fuel, but your reference-engine photo is carburetted, not injected. The float bowls attached to the fronts of the throttle bodies is the giveaway. The cam-driven fuel pump would make perhaps too much pressure for carbs, and there SHOULD be a fuel return line somewhere to keep from overpowering the needle valves. An injected car would also have a return line, as the injection mixture is adjusted by fitting various size restrictor pills in the return line. Bigger hole in the restrictor, leaner mixture. The black line under the squiggly water temp line is probably fuel pressure. It goes to a guage, obviously, and it's NOT H2O or tach. The tach appears to be the large gauge in the center of the panel (and appears to be an electronic unit), and the small line running to it appears to be a wire for an electronic trigger from the mag. A correct vintage car would most likely have a cable-driven mechanical tach, with the drive most likely running from a camshaft (like where the fuel pump is on your ref. pic.) or from an angle-drive on the base of the magneto.. The translucent yellow line is most likely the oil-pressure line to the gauge. The other end would run to a hole tapped in the oil-gallery on the block. The line used in the photo isn't really right for oil pressure thiough, so it COULD be manifold vacuum (it kind of looks like yellowed vacuum hose too) but race cars rarely use vacuum gauges on the panel. It COULD also be fuel pressure, but using that type of line is insane for fuel. IF it's NOT oil pressure, then the top black hose to the dash COULD be oil pressure. My best guess on the line zip-tied to the water pipe is the above mentioned fuel-return line, probably going around the front of the engine from the carbs. I really don't know what else it could possibly be. A pre-WWII midget would not have AN fittings, nor would it have braided line. WWII and post-war military surplus AN fittings were often green zinc-chromate color. Edited August 18, 2012 by Ace-Garageguy
Kyle Posted August 24, 2012 Author Posted August 24, 2012 Bill, thanks for all of the info. I have a better idea of what I'm going to do with the plumbing/wiring. Here's a bit of an update. I decided to scratch-build a gauge panel and gauges. I modified the frame to accept the new panel. I'll add some styrene, tin, or brass to make a firewall. This looks more like my reference pictures than the kit piece. I also machined some finned drum brakes. Here's a bad pic of a mock-up of what it will look like installed. I'll add some more detail to the parts as well. Thanks for looking
MichaelJ Posted August 24, 2012 Posted August 24, 2012 You're eye for detail is spot on. The build is very clean & sharp... I've got both type's to build-so i'm gonna watch Michaelj...
Dr. Cranky Posted August 24, 2012 Posted August 24, 2012 I love the way it is turning out. You are inspiring me to build one of these.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now