Never dry enamel

[realgone58]

Have a problem that hasn't happened to me in my 30 something years of building models. I have a straight enamel paint job that refuses to dry. It's been two weeks! (on a styrene body). I know, I know.........you guys are all gonna tell me I'm nuts for still using spray cans. Hell, I'm lucky I have a touch-tone phone! Anyway, the kit was prepped as usual, with a couple coats of Duplicolor primer, wet sanded, then three coats of a light yellow cheap dollar store straight enamel. It came out perfectly, and shines better than anything I've used before! However, it's still tacky to this day. I've even let it sit out in the hot Florida sun, and still tacky. So tacky, that I do not want to handle it to build it. I've touched inconspicuous areas and it will leave fingerprints that do not seem to come out. Should I try a clearcoat? If so, what kind? Or would Future do it? Or, should it swim in the purple pond? (there goes all my body filler work!!)

[Cato]

I'd strip it and start over. Nothing will stick to it. I'd also use better model-based enamel...

[cobraman]

How long did you wait between coats ? Is the paint you used say it is good for plastic ? I'm sure you know that not all paints are created equal. Some cheap spray paints have a nozzel that shoots too much paint when you press it. I learned that the hard way. Do not spray anything on tacky paint. As suggested at this point it sounds like stripping is your best recourse. Good luck.

[CadillacPat]

Future is not a durable Clear.

You say you used a cheap Dollar Store Yellow aerosol.

How thick did you spray it also??

Some Enamels take a long time to completely cure but you say you've tried to help by leaving it out in the sun.

Additionally to compound the problem, spraying more Enamel over uncured Enamel exacerbates the problem.

The cheap aerosol could have reacted with the Primer or even all the way through to the body.

Like Cato, I say nip it in the bud and start over.

Spraying a good Clear over it might just be a cosmetic cure. While a coat of good Clear might stop fingerprints the underlying Enamel would still be soft.

You could maybe display it but not handle it.

You still take the chance of any final gasses bubbling up under the Clear.

Start over and use better products.

You sound like you are trying to save bucks but better products do not cost any more than inferior ones.

And, if the body is screwed up, how much did that cost to begin with?

Pick a system, any system, Waterbased, Waterborne, Enamel, Lacquer, or even best, Urethane, and stick with it from Primer to Clear.

CadillacPat

Edited October 21, 2012 by CadillacPat

[Guest G Holding]

I would dehydrate it. Enamel sprayed in the Florida humidity can take Eons to dry. 24 hrs at 105 degrees will tell you if it will ever dry.

[VW Dave]

I agree, try a dehydrator first, then strip and re-do it....either way, avoid using the dollar store paint on any future model projects

[realgone58]

Guys, I used the paint not because of cost, but because the color was the only dead-on wringer for what I needed. I've used many other colors of this brand before with excellent results. This light yellow is the only one that did this. I will try some suggested methods before I resort to stripping.

[charlie8575]

Hmm....if you've done this before, I'm guessing you got a bad can of paint.

I'd bring the can and the parts in question to the retailer, along with your receipt if possible, and see if you can get an exchange.

For curiosity's sake, what brand of paint did you use? None of the dollar stores in this area sell paint, and the closest I can think of is the cheap-o enamel at Wal-Mart, which goes for around $1-1.25 a can, depending on finish and color. The paint itself is decent, but the nozzles are horrible, every one of them I've had leaked on me and made a mess.

Charlie Larkin

[XJ6]

I Agree with Charlie.....Indeed you got a bad can of Paint..... Cheap Paint....$$$$$ paint.....even Old Paint....will always Dry.....Bad Paint Not..