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Posted

I bought some air dry clay, thinking it may work for building aftermarket parts.

Anyone have experience with this? Shrinkage variables?

Posted

If your intent is to sculpt items with the clay, then I suggest you maybe practice with air-dry clay, but do your actual work with a 2-part epoxy putty such as Milliput or Aves. Epoxy putty does not shrink and can be sanded and machined after it cures.

Posted

If your intent is to sculpt items with the clay, then I suggest you maybe practice with air-dry clay, but do your actual work with a 2-part epoxy putty such as Milliput or Aves. Epoxy putty does not shrink and can be sanded and machined after it cures.

Tooling can be made directly from some of the clays available from Chavant, as that's what it's made for. It has been used by industrial designers and prototype modelers for decades. There are several hardnesses, some of which can be finished as closely as an epoxy plug. A couple of the clays are the identical ones GM styling (and others) use for prototyping full-scale models, and again, tooling can be made from clay masters. Clay can be re-used almost indefinitely as well, if it's kept clean and not cross-contaminated with other hardnesses. It's old-school, but it works very well. To use it effectively as a material for making masters requires developing a different skillset.

Building a first-generation master, or plug, from epoxy material requires material to be mixed and added if one carves too deep in one area. Clay is more forgiving, as material is added to correct a mistake by simply warming it and applying it directly to the affected area in very small and easily controlled amounts.

Many MANY materials function well for making masters, but this clay is NOT for making molds, so forgive me if I misunderstood your question.

Posted

I'm making seat for large scale, and possible other body or performance parts. Nothing to make molds from. Willie checking this other stuff out. Thank you for this information.

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