Body Filler: What is good on the market today?

[MrModelT]

Hi All!

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I have been out of the hobby for about 10 years...so I am a bit behind on the times.

While my 12 year old (Duesy Kid) is building his '34 Duesenberg, I am going to be building a custom '35 Duesenberg Coupe along side him. To do this, I am going to kit bash two kits together: Jo-Han's '35 Mercedes "Roadster Limousine" and Monogram's '34 Duesenberg SJ Town Car.

There will be quite a bit of "body surgery" on this build...so what is the best body filler on the market today for filling seams, splits and alterations?

[Harry P.]

Please post questions in the question and answer section.

[MrModelT]

Please post questions in the question and answer section.

Sorry...still getting used to where everything goes.

[Casey]

I still prefer a two-part catalyzed body filler, such as Evercoat's Eurosoft (not sure if that product is still current, though), but Bondo brand two-part filler will work, too, and it's very easy to find.

[Longbox55]

I agree with using 2 part, much faster and doesn't shrink. I personally use the Bondo Professional Glazing Putty, stock 801. It comes in a 3 oz tube w/hardener, so there's not so much of it that might go to waste by aging as compared to the larger cans that the other 2 part putties come in. Very convenient and cost effective for model use.

[Eshaver]

The Two part "Bondo " is probably the easier to find . NAPA, Pep Boys , Auto Zone , Advance , Chief, all carry this product in their respective paint sections ...............

[Yahshu]

Super glue & baking soda, sets like concrete.

[Casey]

Super glue & baking soda, sets like concrete.

Unfortunately it sands like it, too, which is a drawback when there will be lots of sanding necessary after the filler is cured. If applied carefully and sparingly, it's a great way to fill voids, cracks, etc.

[MrModelT]

Thank you kindly guys! Have been away from the bench long enough wasn't sure if something better had come along. I haven't done allot of cutting and altering, but this kit bash will require a fare amount of it.

[ScaleDale]

Bondo works well and sands easy, but I would wear one of those light weight masks with it. I got some nose bleeds from getting the stuff in my nose. Tamiya white is good, too and sands down to a plastic like surface but is harder than Bondo. Mr. Surfacer is a liquid body putty that comes in 500, 1000 and 1200 grades like sandpaper, with the 1200 giving the smoothest finish. Being a liquid - lacquer - it has a mind of it's own but is good for filling small cracks and scratches. I use it with an old brush and keep a small jar of lacquer thinner on my bench for cleanup. I have cut it 2-1 and 1-1 with lacquer thinner and airbrushed it as a sandable primer. Saved a ruined hood for me.

Dale

[Ace-Garageguy]

NOTE : If you opt to use the Bondo brand stuff, be sure to get the # 801 "Professional" 2-part catalyzed glazing putty, and NOT the old-style 1-part lacquer putty # 907 which comes in a similar package. In thick applications on models, the 1-part tends to shrink excessively, especially if not allowed to cure fully before top-coating.

[vypurr59]

Just to tag this question here also, what about the spot glazing putties that are available. I have seen this at the body shops, but haven't heard any discussions about it. Is this good, bad or not recommended??

[Ace-Garageguy]

Just to tag this question here also, what about the spot glazing putties that are available. I have seen this at the body shops, but haven't heard any discussions about it. Is this good, bad or not recommended??

There have been several threads discussing the relative merits of the "spot glazing putties" you mention and this is one of them.

OLD SCHOOL spot-glazing putties are LACQUER based ONE-PART paste. They are also chemically and functionally identical to most of the one-part hobby-putties. In general, they shrink excessively if applied too heavily and not allowed to dry VERY thoroughly (they dry by evaporation of solvents, and just like water in a glass, as they dry, they GET SMALLER). Some folks seem to like them though, and get good results.

CURRENT technology spot-glazing putties are TWO-PART, POLYESTER-based and can be applied thick for major bodywork with little danger of excessive shrinkage. They have very little solvent, and don't "dry", but rather "set" from chemical interaction. They are nothing more than a Bondo-like product made with more finely-ground particles.They HAVE TO BE MIXED CORRECTLY. The Bondo brand # 801 referenced above is one of them. So is USC Icing, my favorite. Evercoat makes several, as does 3M. Finishmaster has a generic store brand. There are many others. One favorite in my club is U-Pol Dolphin Glaze.They ALL (the 2-part ones) work pretty much the same.

The Bondo 801 product is popular because it comes in much smaller packs than typical body-shop-marketed products, and it's available at most auto-parts stores, relatively cheap. The larger tubes and tins of 2-part putties found in body shops will usually dry out before most hobbyists use them up, so the small Bondo 801 pack makes sense for modelers.

Edited May 15, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy

[vypurr59]

Thank-you for the clarification.