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Posted

I recently heard someone mention in a video that their models were sealed in airtight cases... Is there a place to buy them at reasonable price, or do you build them? On that note, if you build your own, post some pictures if you want!

Posted

I use the testors clear stackable cases. They are about 10 bucks each. l have cars that are 24 years old like new no dust. they are air tight. l bought many when they was 5 bucks each. you can buy them new from model roundup.com or buy so used on ebay. l bought 1 case of another brand at hobby lobby and in 2 years its not as clear as my oldest case. testors stay clear...

Posted

I use the testors clear stackable cases. They are about 10 bucks each. l have cars that are 24 years old like new no dust. they are air tight. l bought many when they was 5 bucks each. you can buy them new from model roundup.com or buy so used on ebay. l bought 1 case of another brand at hobby lobby and in 2 years its not as clear as my oldest case. testors stay clear...

Do they come in different sizes, and do they offer any protection from UV rays fading the paint? I'll have to look into those!

Posted

You have to be careful with air tight containers. I have had a model or two start to fall to pieces, no pun intended. I think it had to do with the "superglue" type of adhesive (cyanoacrylates). Can anybody confirm this or is it just my luck. This happened with my liquid glue as well(I have Revell's liquid glue for models right now).

Posted

You have to be careful with air tight containers. I have had a model or two start to fall to pieces, no pun intended. I think it had to do with the "superglue" type of adhesive (cyanoacrylates). Can anybody confirm this or is it just my luck. This happened with my liquid glue as well(I have Revell's liquid glue for models right now).

Is that the same type as the testors red tube stuff?

Posted

I build my own cases out of plexiglass from Lowe's. I doubt if they're airtight, but they're cheap to make. There's a tutorial I did on the forum somewhere.

Posted

Airtight cases can also seal in the evaporating paint and glue solvents causing issues with your paint and glue joints. I drill four small holes in the bottom of the,case under the model and open up a groove in one edge so when i shut the case up the fumes have a place to go but keeps the dust off the model.

Posted (edited)

I make my own glass display cases. Dust, child, pet proof, crystal clear and air tight yet easily removable. The construction article is in back issue #156 of MCM or can be found in a search here if not lost in forum crashes. I make them during builds and use them as dust protectors while paint and assembly progress.

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Edited by Cato
Posted

I make my own glass display cases. Dust, child, pet proof, crystal clear and air tight yet easily removable. The construction article is in back issue #156 of MCM or can be found in a search here if not lost in forum crashes. I make them during builds and use them as dust protectors while paint and assembly progress.

">28Medium_zps88f99b4d.jpg

What's the average cost per case? It looks spectacular! Along with the model inside!

Posted

That's a 1/12 model as all my 'case' models are. Case size is 17 x 10 x 6. The nice thing about building your own is that you can display the model fully opened-up and never have dust ruin the inner detail.

Hard for me to give you exact numbers because I've done professional framing and the materials (and a tool workshop) are at hand.

One key is to size the case while planning so that the opening features of your model are accounted for with a small amount of extra room. Some guys just buy fish tanks which are never custom sized to the model-they're all usually way too tall and look weird. They do keep the dust out however.

But the glass can be had from a glass shop or framer, cut to size for $30-$50, depending on your area. A tube of silicone is a few bucks. A little scrap wood makes some holding jigs.

The base is made out of foamcore or MDF $5-$10) and the perimeter is a length of picture frame molding, mitre cut to size and joined with v-nails. You can buy a 'stick' (6', 10' or 12') of your favorite molding from a frame-supply house for $5 to $35-depending on how ornate you go. (don't-simpler moldings are best so as not to detract from your model). Or if you provide careful, exact measurements you can have a framer make just a frame for you. Might even be lucky and find one in his stock as a 'ready-made' which is cheaper.

The bottom is covered with green felt to prevent furniture scratching.

It's not for everyone but if you have moderate craft skills and are patient, you can do it.

If you can find my article, (or buy the back issue from Golden Bell) it's all detailed there and photos show the shop tools and techniques used. Maybe practice on a small scale case just to get a feel for it inexpensively.

Thanks for the kind words on car and model.

Posted

Here's a larger, 1/10 scale GT in its case just to show that you can get creative while building a case. The base is covered with a simple brick pattern found on the web and printed out. Its colorful without detracting but the sky's the limit on what you can do. Gravel, grass, pavement-you could almost make a whole diorama inside the case. ">IMG_0108Medium_zpsa022d346.jpg

Posted

Here's a larger, 1/10 scale GT in its case just to show that you can get creative while building a case. The base is covered with a simple brick pattern found on the web and printed out. Its colorful without detracting but the sky's the limit on what you can do. Gravel, grass, pavement-you could almost make a whole diorama inside the case. ">IMG_0108Medium_zpsa022d346.jpg

Wow....that's incredible.....

Posted

No harder than building a good scale model.

Get to work... ;)

I think I'm going to have to!

I have two good sized curio cabinets with "bullet proof" glass to protect and display my built up models and also my die-cast collection.

I believe I've seen pictures of those on the forum some where, and I really liked them!

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