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Hi you all, well as Spring is almost here, I been working with and tinkering and thinking about ideas for with on the projects. My wife even helped me clean my work area up a lot a month ago. I also been talking with my friend Mark as well about this project. Me and him set down a bout a month ago and had a talk along with my wife. Nothing bad was said at all. Everything wet well and basically talked to him about me going full bore with this project to see just what I could do. I told him I knew what he has in parts and how I could improve some of the stuff so that his parts he got for the project would even look even better in the end.

I also showed him his sleeper he bought from a place I guess upstate out of resin that was warp and started to crack while it was in it's box, I told him I could do better with a metal one. The new frame I was working on for his project I notice one side was paper thin (the top area) where as the bottom area was nice and thick. I was going to grind the thin metal off and easy re-weld a thicker piece on but since me and him and my wife was planing on going by our local Trader Horn store I decided to just hold off. Well we went by there a few weeks ago to get a few things. I decided I would go back and look at there cutting wheels for grinders and right next to it they have a metal assortment rack with round stock on, behind that is now a square area with flat steel and square metal tubing. I went looking in there to see what they had. Well I found a perfect square tubing that was the same size as the frame rail one I was working on is. So I grabbed it. It saves me a lot of time with fiddling with the old frame LOL. I already have the new piece done with all the angles that the old one had. At least the frame will be made out of real steel. I'm using the Mack frame I got off off of my friend and Marks original kit frame to get the right long ness from the kit original black one and the correct cross members and things from the red one. Mark likes the new idea of the frame being made out of steel also I might add.

I do have a bit done already on this project, I'll get progress photos posted asap, and soon as I get my photo hosting to work right.

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Okay, now after I got that all taken care of.. now you all pressly with what I'm about to say you guys will propably say oh no he did not just say that LOL. When my wife was at our local Dollar General store, I stop by the womans area for a minute to check out there nice nail polish.. Well I didn't leave empty handed at all. I got some black nail polish to test out on the frame.

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The paint is holding up good.. but I will take a wire wheel and strip it back off to weld the leaf mounts on and then cut the whole tube down the middle to get the frame rails that I'm after for on this project. What sucks really is I can't really use my dremel drill bits on on the steel.

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Okay, heres an update. My head is hurting LOL. I spent the last few days figuring things out and where things went at from the black frame, then using the red frame with the correct parts on it. To seeing how far off the original kit frame was and how far off the parts was with how they really look to the real parts. Let me just say the rad is one piece WITH a cooler built in or scribe into the front but no detail to it at all. The rad fan is basically inside the rad on the original kit part and that is how it was molded! LOL

So I will taking and making a new rad, cooler, and fan by them selves. I also had to assemble the E9 motor that my friend got for the project to get the cab location on the metal frame, and also hold the cab with the hood on to see where the grill was located and found out the rad is kissing the grill. So I'm moving things around on the black frame to get the right longness I want for the whole frame before I cut the part out. I also took and started drawing the new hood, leaf, and rad mounts out as well from looking at my ref photos of the real rig my friend loves.

But if anyone has a link to I think it is a Mack E9 v8 motor that shows alot of detail.. can you please post a link? I'm not sure how many versions of Mack motors are out there.

Also, any feedback towards the project is always welcome too.

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Here is how wide the one piece will be, one I get all the pieces for the suspension made, I will cut the tube down the middle, that is why the front plates will be spot welded on the out side for and spot welded on top on the inside, but not in the middle though.

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Feedback on the project is always welcome. I hope you enjoyed this small update.

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Wow you are putting in some serious work on this . How long do you think its going to take to get a rolling chassis? Will it be R/C?

Hi Dave,

Yes I am in a away commented to this project. I think if we have a week or two of good weather, I can have the chassis done. As you can probably tell by my typing.. the whole chassis will be of steel & brass. It will be very close to R/C as I plan to make the rear ends and differentials all work along with the drive shaft. I am going to see what I can do to make the rear leafs and all functional as well.

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Here I'm noticing areas, I used the dremel cut off wheel for the job. These notches will be use at another step. They are there so when I go to weld the lines will not vanish off the paint.

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If you look close, you can see what the notch lines are for really

[https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/1969361_10203690508487512_711768230_n.jpg

Here you can see one hole mount drilled in the driver side of the frame rail (I still have to drill the other side), this will be a (probably) temp locations for the hood hings to ride for me to get the cab on the chassis and things all line up.

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Now getting down to making the whole temp to make the whole whole temp-let for the leaf, hood and radiator to hook to. These part here will make two parts that will be the circuital parts of the build to make sure everything is line up right. I just get 1/2 drawn up and fold it over half way to mirror image itself

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Here is the tool that I'm using to sure things are square

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Here is a photo with the lights out, maybe you can see the very small holes in this photo alot better. I will be drilling these out in the stainless steel pieces. plus doing all the bends at the marks and cutting areas out

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And here is the stainless I am using, it's 24x8 22 gauge, the tape is on there will be the guide line to cut the tan area off, then on that small strip, cut out two pieces at one time, leaf hanger mounts

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Any feedback on the project is always welcome, even suggestions on it are also. I hope you enjoyed this update.

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"Any feedback on the project is always welcome, even suggestions on it are also. I hope you enjoyed this update. "

Ok, you asked for some feed back, well I think this is just terrible, the frame is a mess, from someone wanting to make a accurate model, using a shelf bracket is far from that, and steel at that, cutting it with a dremel and marking with a marker pen is not an accurate way to build a frame, nor is it reliable for consistency,

Suggestion, I suggest that you throw the steel frame away, and start again with sheet brass, brass when treated with the respect it deserves can be built far nicer than any other material, it has the strength and lightness to out do plastic, as well as steel, and it will give you a better finish and far easier than trying to weld a rusty shelf bracket, but the key is, it can produce a far more accurate frame than a steel shelf bracket, for the amount of time and effort that you have put into this you could have had someone fabricate the 2 C channel sections for you

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"Any feedback on the project is always welcome, even suggestions on it are also. I hope you enjoyed this update. "

Ok, you asked for some feed back, well I think this is just terrible, the frame is a mess, from someone wanting to make a accurate model, using a shelf bracket is far from that, and steel at that, cutting it with a dremel and marking with a marker pen is not an accurate way to build a frame, nor is it reliable for consistency,

Suggestion, I suggest that you throw the steel frame away, and start again with sheet brass, brass when treated with the respect it deserves can be built far nicer than any other material, it has the strength and lightness to out do plastic, as well as steel, and it will give you a better finish and far easier than trying to weld a rusty shelf bracket, but the key is, it can produce a far more accurate frame than a steel shelf bracket, for the amount of time and effort that you have put into this you could have had someone fabricate the 2 C channel sections for you

Yes I did ask for suggestions, but may I ask you two things.. what photos are you looking at the old or the new? Shelf framing? 2nd, you even told me before (last summer) to go with something that is uniform all the way and will hold. The steel is, it's uniform on all side, brass is a soft metal, the different between the two is one you can only weld to and the other you can only solder to. If I start with sheet brass, how do I know that it will be uniform all the way through plus have the drop down in the front like what this project calls for? It won't, the only way to get that in one shot would be plastic or resin, cutting the channel is the only other way to get that drop down, unless you used a machine press with a die. About the finish, the whole thing will be painted but I do understand where you are coming from though. Plus when you said rusty, you must be looking at the old photos from last fall, because the new ones doesn't have no rust on them. If your looking at the new ones the welding areas is not rust and those things have been clean up.

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Have a read here, read all the 153 pages of this tutorial, by one of the best brass builders

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/2592-article-1-8th-scale-model-t-racer-build-journal.html

And another exceptional brass build

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/24503-article-scratch-built-stock-ford-model-t-1-8-th-scale.html

And this will show how brass is best worked with and it capabilities read all 68 pages by a hobbyist and see the results he gets

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/36929-continental-mark-ii.html

and another one just to get the picture

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/54925-another-super-7-a.html

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hi you all, well I been busy at this project for a while now. I had a jig issue and took care of that.

I also want to say "Thank You" to Tony for the links he took time to gather to post to help me out more with my brass work skill building. Those links will help me out a lot in due time. I'm still reading on a few of them yet. That is some very good info.

Getting back to the project at hand. I am going to mix materials on this project. But first thing first. I want to get the frame of the chassis off the ground.. my main focus is really on the chassis kinda.

I'll let the photos talk.

I started about a month ago by cutting a strip of stainless off, to use to start making the front leaf hangers, rad support, hood hinge.

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Once I cut the piece off, I started to use the smallest dremel drill bit I had in my small pack.

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But something to me look strange, so I took it outside to see since the work area light was acting up.

Sure enough, the one side was okay, but the other side was not, some how afew of the holes was out of linement.

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So I went back to the work desk, and with having the old negative yet in the desk top, I started to draw it back out. All the holes was there and also the markings.

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Now with the new drawing, I used a 1mm piece of no trasspassion sign that was plastic to make a new jig.

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