Polishing for the first time,.....

[Speedfreak]

Ok, I've got a car that has gassed out for three weeks, I think it's done , doesn'nt smell like paint. The paint is Krylon Fusion, ( I know it sucks won't use it any more). The paint job isn't that bad, just some light crazing, probably from the Krylon, it's pretty even though. I've got some micro-mesh sanding pads and some Turtle Wax 'premium' polishing compond.

Am i supposed to use the sanding pads first and then the compound? Or, do I need to clear the car first? Oh, god, I know I've probably read this stuff a couple of dozen times but I have this fear of the pads. What I was about to do (just now) was use the compound and that's it. So, let me have it. Most of the threads I've read say: clear/sand/polish is that the steps? Why can't I just use the compound and then clear? That makes more sense to me, but then again I'm a novice at this finishing stuff. Thanks to one and all.

[Ace-Garageguy]

IF there's enough paint on the car, you don't have to clear at all IF it's a solid color...just like in some full-scale paints. The purpose of the sanding pads is simply to level the surface and remove the "crazing" you mention, or more usually, orange peel. IF you can level the surface...that is, IF you can take enough paint off to get to the level of the bottom of the crazed lines, you MAY be able to polish the gloss up.

Polish is a very mild abrasive as well, and just like 800 grit paper gives a 'smoother' surface than 180 grit paper, polish gives a smoother surface than the finest grit on the sanding pads. If you go all the way up to 12,000 grit with the pads, you'll already have a pretty good gloss, and to polish will just enhance it further.

IF there's NOT enough color on the car to allow you to sand the surface texture from the crazing out, you'll HAVE to apply several coats of clear to, in effect, fill the roughness left by the crazing. THEN you'll sand with the pads, with progressively finer and finer grits, and finish up with the polishing compound.

Fun, huh?/

[martinfan5]

If the paint is crazed, that means that the plastic is crazed, and you most likely are not going to able to polish that, Krylon is not model plastic friendly paint unless you put down a barrier

[Speedfreak]

wow, notice how wow was not capitalized. It is a solid color, medium blue. Kind of like the blue in the American flag, in fact it's called 'Patriotic Blue' I think. Ok! I've got it! Not really. What happens if I just do the compound? The surface will not be leveled? Or, level in some places but not others?

I've got pics I'm gonna post here in a few minutes(?) 'On the workbench' so you might be able to see the surface, that's a big might, given my camera and my skills using it. It really doesn't look that bad but another factor here is that it's a '41 Willy's, so you've got those curved fenders to try and sand, ya right. Unless someone encourages me otherwise I'm thinking I'll just clear it and then sand to play it safe.

[Speedfreak]

Bill and Jonathan thanks for your thoughts. Like I said in the previous post I'm going to put up some photo's ( I hope) and you guy's can take a look if you want. Since the paint is Krylon Fusion, what brand of clear should I get? I know Krylon makes a clear but I hate the way that stuff sprays now that I've used it a few times, it's like spraying with a fire hose.

Thanks.

[o-man]

I've had very good luck with Krylon acrylic gloss. Or you can try to find some Future floor finish at local hardware or grocery store.

[Speedfreak]

Oh ya! I forgot about Future. Ok, I got some pics up in On The Work Bench so you can see how bad it is. Anyway, Oscar how is the Krylon acrylic to work with? Does it shoot out like a fire hose like the enamel does? Can I use lacquer clear on top of the Krylon? What are the advantages/disadvantages of either with the Krylon enamel?

Thanks for the help.

[o-man]

Unless there is something I'm missing in your pictures, the paint looks good to me! It appears shinier and smoother than most of mine before clearing. What you will need to be careful of is the "trim" an hinges both when polishing or sanding.

The krylon clear comes out fine to me. Not as fine as Tamiya does, but you wont have to worry too much with globs coming out.

I will leave others with more experience to try to answer your questions better,

[Speedfreak]

Thanks Oscar. Man this stuff just makes my head spin sometimes, lol.

So, what if I put on the clear and the problems I can now see up close disappear, then I guess I'm done except for polishin/wax? no sanding required? AHHHHHHHHHHH!

Edited November 5, 2013 by Speedfreak

[o-man]

In my opinion, yes.

[PappyD340]

Bill gave you some great advice, one other thing STAY OFF the edges with the sanding pads or you will burn through them puppies in a heartbeat ( the edges have the least amount of film of all the surfaces), just be careful and take your time PATIENCE is a virtue at this point, have fun and remember don't get in a hurry!!!

[Speedfreak]

Thanks for the post Larry. I think to play it 'safe' I'm going to clear it, then sand and polish. The question now is what to use? Lacquer, or, Acrylic? I'm thinking of using Pledge with Future Shine because it's simple, and I've never used it before. Plus it's raining here so I won't have to worry about humidity. Actually I've never cleared, or, polished a car before, ever, so this is all new to me, but fun. I will be brushing it on so any suggestions for application will be appreciated. Thanks.