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Posted (edited)

I had hoped this would be completed in time for year’s end so I could include it my 2013 builds. But yesterday, January 30th, 2013, as I was foiling the windshield frame I peeled off the BMF and lifted some the color layer off of a corner of the roof. “No problem “sez I, “I’ve got a bit of paint left so I’ll tape off the roof, sand it primer it and repaint it. I’ve got a dehydrator, I should have it done tomorrow night!”. So I masked off the rest of the body, thinking perhaps I hadn’t cleaned the resin re-pop of the old AMT chopped top I had purchased on E-Bay quite well enough and that’s why the paint didn’t stick. After applying the primer I removed the masking and … horror of horrors more paint pealed! Obviously there is some sort of issue with the way this particular batch of Duplicolor Toreador Red adheres to this particular batch of Duplicolor Red Oxide Primer. Bummer! So toady I’m off to the auto parts stores trying to hunt down another can of Toreador Red and a fresh can of Red Oxide Primer, Time for a total reshoot…

I had high hopes for this one. It’s another exploration of my “Retro-Mod” concept, where traditional style and parts are combined with more modern elements. The AMT ’36 Ford Convertible kit forms the basis for the build. I set the chassis up with an AMT dropped ’40 Axle modified to take a pair of disc brakes purloined from a Revell Tony Nancy Double Dragster kit with both front and rear axles located by the radius rods off of a Revell Deuce kit for a modern look. I shaved the front cross member and front spring for a nice low rake. The wheels are from a Revell Goodguys Highboy Roadster kit with the rear tires from the same kit, and the AMT Firestones from the base kit. The wheels are painted in Testors Acryl Jet Exhaust which does a darn good job of imitating the old Dow 7 anti-corrosion finish of 50’s Halibrand mag wheels. The motor is also from the ’36 Ford kit. The interior received a quick tuck and roll job courtesy of some Plastruct sheeting along with bucket seats of unknown source from ye olde parts box, and a steering wheel from the aforementioned Highboy kit.

Really, all pretty straightforward, I thought. No dramas, I thought. A two week build, tops, I thought. Get ‘er done in 2013, I thought. Well, it should be the first off the bench in 2014, anyway (I think…).

Happy New Year everyone and…

Thanx for lookin’,

B.

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Edited by Bernard Kron
Posted

Looks cool Bernard! Did you sand the resin and primer before painting it?

Posted (edited)

Thanx guys!

...Did you sand the resin and primer before painting it?

Yes I did. 2000 grit wet sanded. I'm concerned that I might have knocked some of the"tooth" off it. Do you have experience with this?

Edited by Bernard Kron
Posted

Thanx guys!

Yes I did. 2000 grit wet sanded. I'm concerned that I might have knocked some of the"tooth" off it. Do you have experience with this?

That's the same grit sandpaper I use before paint. I haven't had any problems like you just experienced. I use to sand my primer with 600 until I switched to lacquer paints. The first time I sprayed it, you could see every scratch through the paint. Luckily, I had only sprayed the roof on a pickup cab. I had some 2000 grit that I sanded the paint with and shot another coat of paint. It came out perfect and I've been doing it that way ever since. 2000 grit sandpaper does produce a rather slick surface. Maybe step back to 1500 or 1000 grit? I have some 1000 grit sandpaper. I may do a test spray over a hood or something sanded with it and see how it turns out.

Posted

May have missed your goal but you are definately nailing the mark on this piece. Ive always admired the 36's, there are so many possible things that can be done with these old fords. Good work hats off to you

Posted (edited)

Just about done. I have some general cleaning and polishing to do, a license plate to hang, and then she'll be ready for the final beauty shots. I scored some Duplicolor Toreador Red so I was able to proceed with the repaint. Originally, I had planned to paint the red parts with Dullcote for a suede effect, but the paint came out smooth and glossy enough that I didn't want to waste it. The slick paint will be more apparent under stronger light with a white background. These shots were grabbed on my workbench which has very harsh lighting. With the black sheets (to hide the disaster which is the permanent state of my workbench) the photos are extremely contrasty. Dramatic but not very informative... Next stop, Under Glass!

Thanx for lookin',
B.

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Edited by Bernard Kron

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