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Posted

I have several parts which are marked only at the sprue attachment points. Can i give it a go or do i have to strip and undercoat first????

Thanks for any advice.

Joe.

Posted (edited)

All depends on the level of results you seek. I have Alclad in their spray can. I've sprayed a bit in a small cup and then just dabbed it onto a rough spot. It will work like that. But I've seldom seen perfect kit chrome. Parts have mold lines and other imperfections,and your detach point is never perfect. So it usually needs sanding which makes for a bigger mar to fix. So in my mind, once I'm pulling out the Alclad you might as well do the whole job right. I just stripped the bumpers for my Chevette for the same reasons.

Edited by Tom Geiger
Posted

Thanks Tom:

I will check the remaining chrome parts and probably do one large session. I was being lazy!

I needed a boot in the... (right diection)

Thanks to all who responded.

Joe.

NEVER BE AFRAID TO DO IT PERFECTLY!

Posted

I do this all the time. The first thing I do is actually use the high gloss base black with a brush. After the black dries I airbrush the Alclad very lightly and wipe off the over spray. It is not perfect but very close.

Posted

As a side note ; wouldn't it be nice if the kit manufactures moulded the parts-to-be-plated in a metallic silver ? That way sprue-attachment points would be less of a problem .

Posted

As a side note ; wouldn't it be nice if the kit manufactures moulded the parts-to-be-plated in a metallic silver ? That way sprue-attachment points would be less of a problem .

I think it's easier to ask them to put the attachments and ejector pins on a part of the item that won't be visible. I believe we started to see that on the Japanese kits. Sprue attached to bumpers on the back side, wheels no longer attached by the chrome edge... we're seeing that on the newer kits.

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