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Posted

This morning I had a thought and tried it out. I took a "flux brush" (for applying solder when sweating copper tubing) and trimmed the bristles down to about 1/4" long. This worked pretty well to burnish BMF into tight crevices. Its stiff, so you have to be careful with it. I'm sure it will scratch paint if leaned on to heavily.

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Posted

Have any of you guys tried using this hvac tape I tried some tonight it worked OK but its kinda hard to cut so its tuff to make a clean straight cut

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have used both and I prefer the BMF just easier to work with it will still drive you crazy but not nearly as crazy as with the flu tape

I agree with Dave, BMF is easier to use but I rarely foil much anymore.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I wouldn't go near a painted model with an acid brush, especially one that has been cut down. I use them professionally where I work and they can be very aggressive to any finish. It's like washing a car with a bristle brush.

Posted

How I do my BMF, cut and place on model, rub down on BMF with finger, use a cut down toothpick shaped to a flat-head-type shape and burnish that and then trim. After that I run a t-shirt or rag over the BMF to burnish it down more and sort-of polish it. I would be careful with the flux brush, you might scratch your paint or tear all the BMF off by accident..

Posted

I use a pastel/chalk blending stick. It's soft yet firm and you can sharpen it to a point with a pencil sharpener to get down into tight crevises. Been using the same one for 20 years.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/loew-cornell-blending-stumps/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=22866-1059&gclid=Cj0KEQjwvLGfBRDfkrr19KDS-7YBEiQA8CoFJz6P_XGwVWgfYKbZc2HW8F1VjSdcqDhXLD4tjpmVU5AaAqHp8P8HAQ

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