Recommendations for a clear that's not too hot for my decals.

[fitforbattle]

Hi! I wonder if anyone knows about a clear that's somewhat widely distributed (in other words available for purchase in the EU/sweden)

Since I don't have an airbrush at the moment I'm in need of a rattle can clear, I have the Tamiya ts-13 as it's still available in Sweden but it's as I've heard too hot for decals.

A slight problem is the "new" directions from the EU about shipping aerosols by air mail, so I need to get a hold of it, preferably in the Nordics, or EU so it can be shipped by surface mail.

So if anyone from Europe can give me any recommendations, or if anyone who knows about a good "cold" clear and can look up distribution in Europe that would be greatly appreciated.

(I've heard though that the Tamiya ts-13 will become less hot once decanned and shot through an airbrush, is this correct?)

Paint and primer will for now be Tamiya ts and Tamiya fine surface primer.

[High octane]

I've heard that if the first couple of coats are "misted" over the decals, they should be okay. The rumor about TS-13 decanted ans spray through an air-brush is just that, a rumor. I've never "cleared" over decals as yet as my models don't need to be protected at all. I build them, show them at a couple of club meetings and an NNL, and then put them in my display case. I have a model that I've built in the early 80's with my first BMF job and it still looks great today. I know, some builders like to clear over BMF as well. I clear my models before any decals or BMF.

[jbwelda]

Never had a problem with Tamiya ts13 (if saying that isn't asking for trouble I don't know what is...) and I am never even that careful about applying it. I have had the Model Master laquer wet look clear curdle decals but I don't know if it was the decals at fault or the paint or my application method (straight out of buzzcan and I am not really known for restraint) but Tamiya has never given me a problem.

shooting Future through an airbrush is the most benign way of doing this I think but you say no airbrush so I would stick with the ts-13 if you can get it.

jb

[Brett Barrow]

Mr Hobby (Gunze) Topcoat. Safest clear in a can. Don't know where to get it in the EU, though, I'm in the US.

Edited April 11, 2014 by Brett Barrow

[DrGlueblob]

I've brush-coated Future (Kleer) over the whole model with a wide brush. Several car bodies done, and no streaks or brush marks. The stuff is advertised as self-leveling and so far, that's what I've seen. Might try that on a junker body or a plastic spoon first.

[Guest]

I built a white '70 GSX some time ago and I just brushed a coat of Future floor polish over the decals before I sprayed the Tamiya TS-13 over the entire body. It worked perfect!

[fitforbattle]

Thanks for all the input. (amazing commitment on helping people out here, cudos)

Now that you say it can be done, I think I'll put whatever decal I can spare on something and test a couple of mists. The decals are fairly new-produced Cartograf's so I hope the quality is good.

I'll look up the Mr. Hobby clear as I know other Mr. Hobby products are available around here.

So I got three methods as I see it.

1: Test the TS-13 over a spare decal and wait for result.

2: Get a hold of "Future" and use as a coat under the TS-13, however I need to know more about what Future is so I can check for the swedish equivalent. Floor Polish you say, any more specific info on what it really is?

3: Safest method, Clear first, decals second.

Edited April 11, 2014 by fitforbattle

[DrGlueblob]

It's called Kleer in Europe, as I'm told. Future/Kleer is an acrylic plastic formula. Modelers have been using it for years under decals as well as over them. It prevents "Silvering" and works a treat for clear parts, too.

[ZTony8]

If you can obtain Testor Wet Look clear over there,use it. It's very benign.

[fitforbattle]

If you can obtain Testor Wet Look clear over there,use it. It's very benign.

So odd, I can find multiple sources for Testors Dullcote but no Wet Look. I can also get a hold of many other Testors products.

It's called Kleer in Europe, as I'm told. Future/Kleer is an acrylic plastic formula. Modelers have been using it for years under decals as well as over them. It prevents "Silvering" and works a treat for clear parts, too.

Still cant find much, googling "future" and/or "Kleer" doesn't give me much.

Can anyone show me the product? What is it used for by non-modelbuilders?

Thanks for all the help so far.

[Guest]

Check out the second pinned topic in the Tips, Tricks and Tutorials section of the forum to find out about Future Floor Wax.

[DrGlueblob]

Also Google "The Complete Future" and "Swannys models" (sorry, I can't link to them for some reason here?) Swanny has a in-depth look at Future and it's variant names across the World.

[fitforbattle]

Also Google "The Complete Future" and "Swannys models" (sorry, I can't link to them for some reason here?) Swanny has a in-depth look at Future and it's variant names across the World.

Check out the second pinned topic in the Tips, Tricks and Tutorials section of the forum to find out about Future Floor Wax.

Thanks a lot Roger and Chip, will check both!

[tbill]

I've been using testors ultra gloss clear coat [product number 28139], it's lacquer and hasn't bothered my decals yet, plus I find it sprays great and you can lay it on pretty good without runs/sags. not with sure how it would react with what paint you are using, but might be worth a try if you can find/get it.

[fitforbattle]

I've been using testors ultra gloss clear coat [product number 28139], it's lacquer and hasn't bothered my decals yet, plus I find it sprays great and you can lay it on pretty good without runs/sags. not with sure how it would react with what paint you are using, but might be worth a try if you can find/get it.

Shouldn't be a problem since I shoot Tamiya TS, which is lacquer, right? The only paint I dare to use straight out of the rattle can.

I'll check it out!