Future (pledge) becoming milky

[JaredE]

I am using pledge for the first time. My base is a heavy metallic nail polish. I have put down three coats of the pledge product. The first coat looked great, but I needed more clear to hide the rough base finish from the metallic. After the second coat and then the third, it looks like a haze in direct light. Outside of the light, it looks dull. Like it has no "pop" any more. What's going on?

[935k3]

Most likely it is a humidity problem.

[Faust]

I've had this.

It can be because the Future is too thin. Yes, you read it right, too thin!

I cut my Future about 60% Future, 40% Isopropyl (99% only!) alcohol.

I find that if I do a few light coats, and then sand between them, and then put on a much heavier coat, this will get rid of the problem. If you're applying the Future and it runs, you've put it on too heavy. Don't try and wipe it off, it'll just make more of a mess.

Better to just get a test body to try on first!

As Future gets thicker, it actually gets cloudy and whitish. However, it's always glossy, if it's on thick! Don't freak out! If it goes milky, just put it under a 60W bulb lamp. Not RIGHT under, but a bit under, and the heat will begin to dry the Future. as it dries, it will go clear.

A nice thick coat will allow you to have more to sand on. Thing is, at this point, I've found that it normally takes about 1-2 weeks for a thick coat to dry to sandable. However, Future is REALLY hard when it has cured, so you'll be able to sand hardcore. It's well worth it!

Hope this helps!

[JaredE]

That does help! Thank you. I have NOT thinned it at all. It's stright out of the bottle. I didn't like how thin it was already. It's easier to thin something out little by little. But impossible to go back. I will wait this out and see how it looks in a week or so. I'll fill in later with my results, but please keep posting ideas and comments. Any help with knowing what the long time pros do can never hurt! Thanks again

[Faust]

As odd as this might sound, it could be a problem NOT thinning it.

I found when I shot Future full strength that it was a bit of a pain in the backside to get right. You need it thinned with some alcohol to makeit dry a bit quicker, and also to level out better. That's what works for me.

Incidentally, I find that if I take a jar and make 1/3 Future and 2/3 Alcohol, it makes dandy thinner for any brand of acrylic paint, including Tamiya. The Future re-inforces the paint, making it dry harder and shinier, and more sandable.

If, by chance (like on my current project, the Hertz SVO) you end up with a colour that's flat, thin it down with Straight Future a bit, then airbrush it. Unless you thin the paint until it doesn't cover, you can ALMOST NEVER add too much for airbrushing purposes. Handbrushing is different, of course!

Good luck! I'll be interested to see how it goes!

[Ace-Garageguy]

Maybe a reason not to use floor wax on a model car?

[Harry P.]

Maybe a reason not to use floor wax on a model car?

It's not floor wax. It's clear acrylic, nothing more, nothing less. You can buy clear acrylic in spray can form or bottle form with a hobby brand name on it–or get a bottle of Future at a cost per ounce just a tiny fraction of what the "hobby" brand clear will cost you.

Jared: Future looks milky until fully dry, then it is crystal clear. You're laying it on too thick and not letting it fully dry.

Get yourself a cheap food dehydrator. It will dry the Future (and all painted parts) in no time. I got one at Walmart for $30. Best model-building "tool" I ever bought.