Corvette Ron Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 I am going to cut the front clip off a 65 Corvette coupe model I picked up and graft it on to the 67 convertible kit that I have. This will allow me to make a "correct" 65 convertible. I found a Youtube video on how to make the cut with an Xacto blade and I found a tip that said to use styrene flat stock to reinforce the bond. After the glue has dried what do I use for body filler in case there is a gap that needs to be filled in? Sanding tips also needed. I have not built a model car since 1961 ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corvette Ron Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 Here is what she will look like when done. The only changes will be the wheel centers will be gray, the tires will have blue thin stripes and the interior will be white. I ran the 1:1 65 vert without a front bumper back in the day for the "gasser" look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclescott58 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 You'll also need to fill in the 67's backup light. That is a one year item only. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 (edited) Many of the more experienced builders use Bondo "Professional" TWO-PART (you have to mix it with the included hardener) real-car glazing putty as body filler. It works very well for heavier filling on models. DO NOT CONFUSE IT WITH THE ONE- PART FILLER / GLAZE which is essentially the same as all the model putties like Testors, Squadron, etc. The one-part putties (just very thick lacquer primer) work fine for minor scratch-filling, and though some guys say they're OK for heavy work, I tend to disagree. If you fit your front clip well, you really shouldn't need any filler. Edited July 28, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Just wondering. Why are you changing the entire front clip? Isn't the only difference in the louvers? I would just cut the fender louvers out and switch those. Changing clips is a pretty big task and totally unnecessary. Cut your '65 louvers out just below the body crease and a couple of mms fore,aft and below them. Put just a tiny drop of glue on each corner of your '65 louver and place it over top of your '67 louvers. Get it placed correctly and mark around the perimeter with a permanent marker. I use a fine tip Sharpie. Pull your '65 louver back off and cut out the '67 louver. Be sure to stay inside your lines. Take your time and keep checking for fit. Once it fits well, it's ready to glue. I use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. If you don't have that, you can use regular glue. It just takes longer to dry. Make sure you get your new louver flush with the fender. You can check it with a small straight edge. Once it's dry, take a tooth pick and super glue and apply the super glue to the joint heavily. This will fill any remaining gap and make the bond stronger. Do it on the outside and inside. If you're concerned about strength, you can add a piece of styrene to the inside also if it won't be visible. I don't personally unless I have a joint at a door line. Sand, check for flaws (a quick way is mark the joint with your Sharpie and lightly sand again. If there's any marker left, add a little super glue to the area. No marker left, you're ready for primer.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 (edited) Just wondering. Why are you changing the entire front clip? Isn't the only difference in the louvers? I would just cut the fender louvers out and switch those. Changing clips is a pretty big task and totally unnecessary. He asked a question about "grafting" parts previously http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91830#entry1226377 and I gave him an answer somewhat similar to your advice. But, IF the clip is cut and fitted CLEANLY at the door-opening lines and cowl panel, it should be possible to avoid the filler issue entirely. Edited July 28, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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