J Morrison Posted August 7, 2014 Posted August 7, 2014 He said show me one IN person. He was talking about the diecast I believe.
Harry P. Posted August 7, 2014 Posted August 7, 2014 I kinda doubt the thread starter was referring to the high end die cast you are talking about Harry. That also brings up another point. Out of scale shininess. A lot of the cars done in diecast are much shinier that the 1:1 vehicle they represent. I believe many people are afflicted with the "Oh look, SHINY!" syndrome. I have seen plenty of excellent models get over looked for models that were so shiny look like they were dipped in shellac or had a bunch of aftermarket parts thrown at it...but that's a story for a different day. I agree with that 100%. That "dipped in syrup" look may work for a show rod, but not much else. Especially a factory stock model where the real car didn't even have a clearcoat at all. He said show me one IN person. He was talking about the diecast I believe. Ah, ok, I get it now.
Lovefordgalaxie Posted August 7, 2014 Posted August 7, 2014 I think the paint on some diecasts is in fact outstanding. I have a DM Edsel Bermuda that is for all purposes flawless. Even tough, quality was not constant. Have a '40 Ford that is less perfect than the Bermuda. When we talk about Franklin Mint, it's a totally different ball game, like you say in the U.S. I have a '32 Ford Three Window coupe from FM, and the paint has flat spots, some orange peel, and the wire wheels are not realistic at all. I was able to get a much better finish on a AMT Ford Vicky with Tamiya paints than the one Franklin Mint did. Now the main disadvantage of diecasts: You get them completed inside a Styrofoam box, with the typical authenticity papers and stuff. All you have to do is to look at it, and be amazed. Now, with a plastc kit, if you work hard, and take your time on research, you can make them to look as good as the top Dollar Mints, having a lot of fun on the process, and at the end, having something you put together, and that will always be a part of you. Another disadvantage: As diecasts get old, the metal alloy starts to degrade, and little bubbles start to appear on the finish. My '32 Ford from FM is affected. Plastic models, well stored, will last forever.
khier Posted August 7, 2014 Posted August 7, 2014 (edited) Ladies and Genlemen (do we have ladies here?), The discussion started with how die-cast models get their high gloss finish and was answered fully by Art Anderson. It turned to be "you cannot beat high-end die casts finish no matter what you do", which was neither supported by a technical nor a logical proof. Finally it drifted by Mr. President of Russia to die-cast vs styrene. Although the two latter points are interesting, I think it is better if we stick to the original subject, and those who want to discuss a different topic can start dedicated threads. Edited August 7, 2014 by khier
CJ1971 Posted August 7, 2014 Posted August 7, 2014 Hang on a second... I'm on your side Harry. The thread starter made absolutely NO distinction when he mentioned - diecast, therefore generalising, meaning ALL diecast, including anything from Hot Wheels through to your high-end $500-$1000 Auto Art etc diecasts. If the thread starter actually specified which diecasts he was referring to then this whole debate about Harry being right/wrong about his statement/comment would not be where it's at... Completely unnecessary. High end diecasts ARE mass produced, just because they're not sold in your regular toy store, doesn't mean they're not mass produced. If I or anyone else was paying upwards of $500 for a diecast car, it sure as hell better have a flawless paint job!! ??
ERIK88 Posted August 8, 2014 Author Posted August 8, 2014 (edited) You make a good point there, I think many kits get over looked if they are not glossy enough. It must also be remembered that machines with no soul are producing these die cast models. I think many builders should remember that when we build a kit it is from our imagination, from our own bare hands that these cars get built, not some random machine or factory worker who did the work for you, and all that's left is to display a model in which you did not take any involvement at all in its building process. A kit is a work of art, more valuable than any Danbury mint or higher end die cast to me, as it often tells a story or brings you to a specific time of the builder, and what they were trying to portray or express via model kit. I appreciate the gloss of die cast, I hope one day I can get close, but for now practice will do like people have mentioned earlier. I do respect the paint quality of die cast, and created this thread to possibly hear from some of the more higher skilled or old time builders that the same quality of paint job is somewhat achievable and that it was not just because of the difference in materials being used, ( metal vs. plastic ). I kinda doubt the thread starter was referring to the high end die cast you are talking about Harry. That also brings up another point. Out of scale shininess. A lot of the cars done in diecast are much shinier that the 1:1 vehicle they represent. I believe many people are afflicted with the "Oh look, SHINY!" syndrome. I have seen plenty of excellent models get over looked for models that were so shiny look like they were dipped in shellac or had a bunch of aftermarket parts thrown at it...but that's a story for a different day. Edited August 8, 2014 by ERIK88
Art Anderson Posted August 9, 2014 Posted August 9, 2014 Perhaps the major reason diecasts at least seem to have such high-gloss paintjobs is the sheet thickness of paint on them. Having stripped paint off numerous diecasts over the years, I've been amazed at the crisp detail many exhibit in their raw metal surfaces, which one would ordinarily never see, buried is such detail often is, under more than a scale 1/4" thick coat of paint. Something else to ponder as well: Many, many diecast models are of subjects that when the real car was built and finished originally, the paints and processes in use in their era were both quite incapable of resulting in an almost "hand-blown glass" shine. Art
CJ1971 Posted August 9, 2014 Posted August 9, 2014 Another reason... They can be "baked" to cure/dry the paint, because they're metal. Obviously plastic can't be.
heinz74 Posted August 12, 2014 Posted August 12, 2014 i guess when having extremely good skills ..and a super controlled enviroment you could get a flawless finish on plastic.. but up until now i never could grasp the quality of many of my 1/18 Autoart diecast models having a BMW e30 M3 in Nogaro silver (the cecotto edition).. amongst many others.. the paintwork is unbelievable.. even the metallic flakes are up to scale..no runs or dry spots not a spec of dirt...and this thing shines..even better than the real thing and about the thickness of the paint...i have got no clue...it doesn't look 'handdipped' or soaked in clearcoat..nor does it look like somebody polished it on the assembly line.. i also have a whole host of the Ottomobile 1/18 range..these are resin bodied ..call them curbside..and these also look super realistic ...(and limited in 2500 pcs each) i even have the 1/12 Volkswagen Golf 1 GTI..and although these resin models are 99% correct in size and shape..and looks..you CAN tell they are plastic(ish).. some of my Otto's i've had for years have toned down in shine a bit ..and all sorts of stuff has rissen to the surface on some.. like dust and sinkmarks...in a way they seem alive.. the metal ones including the Autoart 67 gt500 in bleu and red and about 15 other eurocar models are fine like day one.. so if we are talking high end diecast models ...i myself haven been a automotive painter for 20+ years..i still can't figure it out how the companys like AutoArt and CMC or even Minichamps get away with it... beats me!
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