Using Putty

[midnightsteele]

If you know from the begining that you will need to putty some areas, do you go ahead and start filling or start with a base of primer like you would on a 1:1? I have started the Revell 1965 Chevy Stepside and right off, the cab and hood will need putty to fill seams between glued pieces.

James

[Ace-Garageguy]

I personally use the 2-part putties over bare plastic, thoroughly sanded with 180. I'll use the one-part putties over primer occasionally.

Just personal preference and what works reliably for me.

In general, the model car primers I use most are lacquer, and the 2-part putties aren't really intended to be applied over lacquer. I've had adhesion problems develop on 1:1 work from applying 2-part putties over lacquer undercoats.

BUT...if I use a two-part urethane or polyester primer, I'll use a 2-part putty over it if necessary. Usually though, the 2-part primers give such high build and filling that additional fill isn't required.

The fill work was done on this one over bare plastic, sanded with 100 grit.

Then buried in 2-part urethane primer...

The surface required no additional fill. Here it's been sanded to about 400 grit.

The final simulated bare-aluminum finish required a flawless and stable base.

Edited October 3, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy

[midnightsteele]

Guess I should have mentioned what kind of putty I'm using. Using Bondo spot and glazing. Cool looking car BTW.

JAMES

[Snake45]

I use Sikkins putty, which I think is similar to your Bondo glazing putty. I apply it to bare plastic. If primer shows I need more, I put it on the primer. The stuff has a "hot" base which eats into and bonds nicely with both plastic and paint.

Here's some of that Sikkins on a project I'm currently working. One note on these putties: Apply them in THIN layers--no more than 1/16". Apply them too thick and you'll have all kinds of problems down the road. If you need it thicker than that, apply a thin layer, sand that somewhat smooth, then apply some more, etc.