clear cote ?

[oldr-n-drt]

i have a white painted car, will model master #28139 lacquer clear, yellow over time like enamil will?? thanks oldr-n-drt

[Guest]

I hope not. I just clear coated a white paint job with it. Is your paint Model Masters? Whatever your paint is, make sure you use the same brand/type of clear. I've done a couple of white paint jobs with Tamiya paints and it hasn't yellowed. Supposedly, the clear lacquers won't yellow over time.

[StevenGuthmiller]

It shouldn't. I've been using Testors Lacquer clear for several years now with no issues. The enamel yellows almost instantly! I used it for many years & avoided painting my models light colors because of it. Steve

[Tom Geiger]

Yes, the Testors Model Master enamel will yellow. I have a pink and white '57 Ford that I clear coated the body, but not the wheels. There is now a very noticeable difference.

[oldr-n-drt]

tom... i know enamel will but i ask about lacquer# 28139?? oldr-n-drt

[Guest]

One problem I'm having with the Model Masters clear lacquer is getting it to dry completely. It's drying like enamel! I had the clear polished up to 12000 and planned to foil it and give it the final polish and wax. I didn't worry about using a glove to handle the body while foiling. But, I kept my hands washed and clean. I figured the fingerprints would polish out. NOT! I'm going to have to go back over it with 12000 before I polish and wax. I've had the body on a stand above a heating register for about three days now. If it's not dry by now, it'll never be. I'll either use something else the next time or allow more drying time.

[Mike_G]

One problem I'm having with the Model Masters clear lacquer is getting it to dry completely. It's drying like enamel! I had the clear polished up to 12000 and planned to foil it and give it the final polish and wax. I didn't worry about using a glove to handle the body while foiling. But, I kept my hands washed and clean. I figured the fingerprints would polish out. NOT! I'm going to have to go back over it with 12000 before I polish and wax. I've had the body on a stand above a heating register for about three days now. If it's not dry by now, it'll never be. I'll either use something else the next time or allow more drying time.

That sounds like my experience with Duplicolor DAL1695

[StevenGuthmiller]

One problem I'm having with the Model Masters clear lacquer is getting it to dry completely. It's drying like enamel! I had the clear polished up to 12000 and planned to foil it and give it the final polish and wax. I didn't worry about using a glove to handle the body while foiling. But, I kept my hands washed and clean. I figured the fingerprints would polish out. NOT! I'm going to have to go back over it with 12000 before I polish and wax. I've had the body on a stand above a heating register for about three days now. If it's not dry by now, it'll never be. I'll either use something else the next time or allow more drying time.

It does dry slower than automotive lacquers, that's for sure. I usually let my clear coats cure for at least a week before I start polishing. The longer the better. Steve

[Guest]

I obviously did something wrong somewhere along the way. The Model Masters clear still had a tacky feel to it. The paint had dried a week before the clear. The clear had dried for well over a week before I began polishing it. Plus, I had it over a heat register for over three days. I quit fighting it and put it in the stripper tank. I'll get a can of Tamiya Pure White and clear it with TS-13. I know it works. I'll have to find something else to go over the other projects I have painted with Model Masters.

The only factor that I can think of that could have been the cause of my problem is that I'm not sure exactly how old the Model Masters clear was. It could be as old as two years. But, I can't remember exactly when I bought it.

[Mike_G]

One thing I've found that helps is to wetsand the clearcoat with 1,000-2,000 grit and let it sit before going to finer grits- the paint seems to gas out more thoroughly when the surface is broken and not smooth like 12,000 grit

[StevenGuthmiller]

I obviously did something wrong somewhere along the way. The Model Masters clear still had a tacky feel to it. The paint had dried a week before the clear. The clear had dried for well over a week before I began polishing it. Plus, I had it over a heat register for over three days. I quit fighting it and put it in the stripper tank. I'll get a can of Tamiya Pure White and clear it with TS-13. I know it works. I'll have to find something else to go over the other projects I have painted with Model Masters.

The only factor that I can think of that could have been the cause of my problem is that I'm not sure exactly how old the Model Masters clear was. It could be as old as two years. But, I can't remember exactly when I bought it.

Strange. Do you remember which Testors clear it was? Was it The Model Master #28139 "Ultra Gloss Clear Coat"? or was it one of the other Testors clear lacquers? (#1834 Wet Look Clear or #1261 Glosscote) I've never had that sort of problem with them. Although I have been having a cracking problem with the "wet look clear" lately. Steve

[Guest]

One thing I've found that helps is to wetsand the clearcoat with 1,000-2,000 grit and let it sit before going to finer grits- the paint seems to gas out more thoroughly when the surface is broken and not smooth like 12,000 grit

I do it kinda similar Mike. My clear was pretty smooth. So, I could start with 6000. I sanded it with 6000 the first day, 8000 the next and 12000 the next.

[Guest]

Strange. Do you remember which Testors clear it was? Was it The Model Master #28139 "Ultra Gloss Clear Coat"? or was it one of the other Testors clear lacquers? (#1834 Wet Look Clear or #1261 Glosscote) I've never had that sort of problem with them. Although I have been having a cracking problem with the "wet look clear" lately. Steve

This is the first time I've ever had a drying problem with lacquer. The can I have is Model Master's Lacquer Overcoat Gloss. Paint number 1961. The only time I've had a cracking problem was when I used Future and it only done it on the roof, hood and trunk. The strangest part is that they also disappear at times.

[StevenGuthmiller]

This is the first time I've ever had a drying problem with lacquer. The can I have is Model Master's Lacquer Overcoat Gloss. Paint number 1961. The only time I've had a cracking problem was when I used Future and it only done it on the roof, hood and trunk. The strangest part is that they also disappear at times.

Hmmm, that one's not even available here. Could be an old one that they don't make any more. might have just been old. steve