Automotive paint

[Aaronw]

Because of its age I had to have a pint of paint mixed up for some touchup spots on my car.

Since it is a color I could imagine using on a model (similar to Tamiya Mica Blue) and I'll have plenty left over, I'm curious about thinning it for that use. It is a fast dry acrylic enamel, can I use regular store brand thinner or should I get a can of the reducer they sell for it. I know they recommend the reducer for spraying a full size car, but don't know if that is necessary for the small quantity used for a model.

Not that familiar with automotive paint, I know the two part urethane paints are pretty nasty, but assuming this being an enamel I should be ok treating it like a standard rattle can as far as safety precautions? Air brush and spray booth with good ventilation being adequate. Is this stuff any worse than Tamiya or Krylon? I do have a cartridge mask available, but honestly rarely use it unless using something notably nasty, and then I don't want to use it in the house.

I know it may be hotter than most rattle cans so a good primer coat is assumed.

Thanks

Edited November 9, 2014 by Aaronw

[my80malibu]

You should probably be asking your paint jobber these questions. Typically when I use automotive paint. I use a medium temp reducer,and it works well for me usually the generic or house brand of paint is what was mixed. Since we don't know what your spraying, it's hard to say what would, or could work.

[Ace-Garageguy]

It's always a good idea to use the recommended reducer made by the same manufacturer who makes the paint, unless you've done sufficient testing to know exactly what will happen mixing non-spec materials, or, as Gabriel suggests, your paint jobber makes a specific recommendation for a substitute. If in ANY doubt, test first. There are way too many possible combinations for anyone here to know exactly what will work reliably together, especially with incomplete information. Some "thinners" will curdle some paints like sour milk.

I've known a lot of cowboy-hotshot painters who seemed to think they could just slosh anything in anything, and they made a lot of messes that took a lot of stripping and reworking.

Wear a respirator if you like your lungs.

[Aaronw]

Not a big deal to get the reducer, just didn't know how much it mattered and trying to keep cans of "stuff" to a minimum. Sounds like it matters.

Also sounds like an outside job with a mask. Thanks

[my80malibu]

It only matters when there is a problem. Mainly because automotive paint manufacturers, have No interest in seeing their products used on models, therefore they don't formulate for our needs. For modelers its adapt, and learn sometimes things work out other times not. I have recently attended a John Kosmoski Seminar, John is the original developer of House of Kolor paints, He would like a Painter to use HOK products exclusively from start to finish. This system will price you in to the Hundreds of dollars when all is said and done in supply costs. You will have enough paint to cover maybe 10 Models all in the same color. However if there is a Problem you have Recourse. If you use HOK with store brand reducer" as others have done" and your models look ok ,but slowly start to change to rainbow colors then explode, and you know it was a fault with the paint.You can call John He will listen to your story, then tell you there is nothing He will do for you. because doing so will be admitting fault with the product, and things go South from there.

If I go to my paint Jobber He mixes the same colors in the House brand as HOK. Usually in Diamont, or R&M, brands and recommends the generic mid temp reducer for that. Then we are Rockin and a Rollin for way less than HOK.