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Posted (edited)

I've wanted to build a Corvair van since I got back into modeling and thought the only way I would be able to do it would be to totally scratch build one. While reading a thread about an upcoming release of a Corvair someone posted a pic of the van in resin. After a PM to the person who posted the pic, I was armed with enough info to track the caster down and purchase one. I knew going in that it was a very rough casting, but I wasn't expecting it to be so bad, but I'm determined to make something out of this that actually resembles a Corvair van.

Here's what I started with,,,,,,,,,,

You can see how distorted the body is in these pics. it sags at the back of the front door and the front corner sticks out pretty far. Not only that, but the driver side is about 1/8" longer than the passenger side!

PB230012Medium_zps0942d434.jpg

DriverSideView_zps5425fe5f.jpg

A very distorted windshield opening.

PB230014Medium_zps3a3a8a9e.jpg

Nice straight drip rail.

LeftSideDriprailMedium_zps92dd3824.jpg

The back has a bow to it where the van is flat across the back, plus check out the panels for the taillights.

BacksideMedium_zps5499ce58.jpg

Edited by Psychographic
Posted (edited)

The first thing I wanted to tackle was the dip in the driver side.

I looked down the coves and saw 2 places that could be addressed. I marked them and started with the first cut at the back of the door, I wound up taking a wedge cut of a little over 1/16" at the bottom to nothing at the drip rail. Looking down the coves again, I decided I could get away with just the one cut and sanding the rest to get it straight.

PB240033Medium_zps1ca96bfc.jpg

Next up, pull that corner in. Once again a wedge cut was made. The piece laying on the desk broke off from being so thin after sanding the body to take the waves out of it.

PB240044Medium_zps30eac023.jpg

After gluing it back together it tucks in nicely.

PB240037Medium_zpsce43009a.jpg

At this point I realized it would be easier to sand off details like the gas cap, drip rail and wheel lips, and add them back once the body is straight. I also want a panel van, not to mention that looking at those jagged window cuts was driving me crazy. I put some tape over them to get an idea of how it will look. you can see I've also started to reshape the nose of the van.

PB250045Medium_zps3dcc0781.jpg

Edited by Psychographic
Posted (edited)

As the body was getting very thin in spots, I sanded the inside to take the gloss off the resin, taped the windows off on the outside and poured another coat of resin on the inside.

Here it is with the filled windows and more sanding.

PB260046Medium_zps6a65b373.jpg

Next up was taking the bow out of the back. The back was thick enough to sand it flat from the windows down. To pull the window area in, I cut it just below them and took a triangle shape out of the roof. I noticed one corner stuck out, so another wedge cut was made like I did on the front.

PB260047Medium_zpsd368734e.jpg

PB260051Medium_zps1f2bb36b.jpg

After gluing it back together and a lot more sanding it started looking much better.

PB270052Medium_zps1d029af3.jpg

The back needed to be built up a bit, so I made a dam out of masking tape and poured a little resin into it. Here's is what was left after the tape was removed.

PB280055Medium_zpsfc3615d0.jpg

And after some more sanding.

PB280064Medium_zps3df38dd4.jpg

Edited by Psychographic
Posted

As I was trying to figure out the best way to deal with the taillight panels, I decided to work on the nose. Again a dam was built and resin poured.

PB280054Medium_zpsf33fe8d2.jpg

Oops, not enough resin.

PB280058Medium_zps335c087c.jpg

After a second pour and some sanding the front was taking shape.

PB280061Medium_zps86e9739c.jpg

PB280060Medium_zps95fee873.jpg

Posted (edited)

Some more sanding and shaping.

PB280062Medium_zps2f72074e.jpg

PB280063Medium_zps15edc570.jpg

PB280064Medium_zps3df38dd4.jpg

I made a transparent image of a real van and sized it to fit over the model. I'd say I'm getting there. I also thought the front of the van's roof was too low when actually the it's the back that is too high.

OverlyJpegMedium_zps7b0f237f.jpg

Edited by Psychographic
Posted (edited)

I figured the easiest way to do the taillight details was to cut them out of the body, then make one side out of styrene and cast a pair. I just hoped they would be "Square" enough to just flip one over to use on the other side.

PB290068Medium_zpse023d4e0.jpg

The parts I made to cast.

PB290069Medium_zps8f87752a.jpg

Checking the fit.

PB290070Medium_zps75450c92.jpg

The cast parts.

PB300071Medium_zps124e4ffb.jpg

Not perfect, but as close as I think I can get them.

PC010072Medium_zps3a65ac2b.jpg

Before and after.

RearViewComparison_zps75bc9363.jpg

Edited by Psychographic
Posted

It looks like I can cast a 65 Chevy bumper then shorten it for front and rear bumpers.

PC010075Medium_zpsac46e2c4.jpg

Next up, the windshield area.

I started by sanding the lump out of the front, reshaped it a bit and heated the body with hot water and pushed it over to the driver side a bit.

PC020081Medium_zps4d9e9017.jpg

PC020085Medium_zpsef6cc0e7.jpg

I then made a buck for the windshield by flattening some Magic Sculp and shoving it into the opening.

PC030093Medium_zps8b3f2dc7.jpg

PC030094Medium_zps95db3b08.jpg

After some sanding.

PC030096Medium_zps05da3172.jpg

PC030098Medium_zps9e1f6c74.jpg

Posted (edited)

At this point I need this thing to be all one color as it becomes impossible to see any flaws with the different shades of resin. You can also see I squared up the top of the body where the drip rail goes.

After a couple of coats of primer.

PC050105Medium_zps88854a05.jpg

PC050106Medium_zps4956670a.jpg

I guess when I heated the body to shove the windshield posts over, I put a dip in the roof.

Filling and sanding got it back into shape.

PC060114Medium_zps9a280005.jpg

PC060114aMedium_zpsb9e03e31.jpg

PC060115Medium_zps38815ecd.jpg

I dug out some 13" wheels and tires, then made a quick frame out of popsicle sticks to get an idea if I'm going in the right direction.

PC070114Medium_zps61f5e77d.jpg

PC070115Medium_zps428294d2.jpg

PC070116Medium_zpsf8549680.jpg

Edited by Psychographic
Posted

Making a grille.

GrilleMedium_zps4dcc2480.jpg

The buck for the grille. I'll wrap this with Magic Sculp and shape it.

PC070117Medium_zps1a99bb76.jpg

The parts for the bar.

PC080119Medium_zpsaa8ec90f.jpg

PC080120Medium_zps04fce76c.jpg

PC080122Medium_zps266fe10b.jpg

PC080121Medium_zps75dfaf27.jpg

PC080123Medium_zps6a31b104.jpg

I cast a section from the 65 Chevy P.U. for the back of the grille. then glued it to the outer ring.

PC090126Medium_zps303360f8.jpg

PC090127Medium_zpsa3511e0c.jpg


Posted (edited)

A member here who I can't remember ( the site crash lost my PMs) was kind enough to send me a set of 59 El Camino headlights for the project. Whoever you are, I apologize for forgetting who you are, but thank you!

After stripping the chrome and clear, I added a turn signal lens to the bottom and will cast a pair.

PC110129Medium_zps336a483a.jpg

PC120130Medium_zpsd85155fb.jpg

PC120131Medium_zps37fe0c73.jpg

And now we're caught up to when the site lost all of the posts recently.

I'm out of primer and I can't find the cup that measures the silicone activator for my resin molds, so I'm stalled until I can get to the store.

Edited by Psychographic
Posted (edited)

Thank you guys. It took a couple of days to find the patience to get all the pics back up.

Would the person who posted the pics of their red Greenbriar please PM me, thanks.

Edited by Psychographic
Posted (edited)

Thanks Chuck.

The top of the windshield opening looked a bit off to me, I need to remove a little along each edge. If you look close, you can see the pencil marks where it needs to be sanded.

PC140132Medium_zpse2e31cf6.jpg

After the second round of filler, I sanded it with 240, 360, and finally with 1000.

It's almost to another point that has me scared, I don't look forward to scribing the doors back in. I really REALLY suck at scribing on stryrene, I find resin and body filler even harder. Anyone got any tips or suggestions?

PC140133Medium_zps017af948.jpg

Edited by Psychographic
Posted

For the straight lines, I like to use a saw instead of a scriber- for me, that's the best way to get a good, straight line. For the rest, or areas where using a saw wouldn't be practical, it's a straight edge and the back of a #11 blade.

Posted (edited)

I wanted to see how far I've come, I tried to get both pics at the same angle for a comparison.

SideViewComparisonMedium_zps6878177a.jpg

The transparent red is the original. I lined them up by the coves in the side. The red image should be just a tiny bit larger, but you can see how much of it has been reshaped.

SideViewOverlayMedium_zps44c2ce93.jpg

Edited by Psychographic
Posted

I ground out an the area between what will be the back windows. I think I went a little too deep at the top, I guess that's why bondo was created!

PC140134Medium_zps4b08f54a.jpg

Then I drilled a hole in each corner inside of what will be the corner of the window opening. Then I played connect the dots with a small circular saw blade in the Dremel.

PC150137Medium_zpsfd00511d.jpg

As I said, I am reall lousy at scribing something from scratch. I got the back doors done and somewaht straight, but I made a huge mess out of the side doors. I used the original lines for size and tried to straighten them. This didn't go well. I filled it all back in and as luck would have it, I think the doors would have been too narrow. So at least I caught a mistake, even if it was the hard way.

PC150135Medium_zps2be2105a.jpg

I think one of the problems is this resin is full of pinholes, so you can't get a smooth scrape with any tool. As soon as you hit a pinhole the scriber or blade digs in and stops or it goes off to the side.

If it wasn't for the fact that I would like to cast this body, I'd just cut all the doors open.

I'm making a guide tool and I hope once it dries, I can find a good way to clamp it to the body and make some decent lines.

PC150138Medium_zps43a1161d.jpg

Posted

For doing the side doors you could drill through the top and bottom of the guide, locate the the line to be scribed , then drill into the body for pins. Guide won't move.. once done the hole in body could be filled.

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