drive4th Posted January 26, 2015 Author Posted January 26, 2015 Yeah i have to say one of the biggest lessons i learned is that maybe you don't always have to follow the build instructions EXACTLY (especially if you're modifying). The instructions don't give you a lot of detail and certainly no heads up about parts that will get in the way of other parts later on. When i rebuild this camaro im going to follow a different order, now that i know where everything goes, and defintely spend more time prepping the body. Id like to learn how to modify suspensions to get that lowered look i see all over the place here, but im sure i'm going to ruin plenty of models trying to figure out that one i think for the next build im going to have to design it on paper first, then build it. time to bust out Photoshop and do some renders!
ferrari87 Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Yeah i have to say one of the biggest lessons i learned is that maybe you don't always have to follow the build instructions EXACTLY (especially if you're modifying). The instructions don't give you a lot of detail and certainly no heads up about parts that will get in the way of other parts later on. When i rebuild this camaro im going to follow a different order, now that i know where everything goes, and defintely spend more time prepping the body. Id like to learn how to modify suspensions to get that lowered look i see all over the place here, but im sure i'm going to ruin plenty of models trying to figure out that one i think for the next build im going to have to design it on paper first, then build it. time to bust out Photoshop and do some renders! youtube. every kit is different. Fujimi and Aoshima have suspension systems completely different from Tamiya, and I'm sure Tamiya is different from Revell and AMT. Then again, every car is different. Look around on the internet and you'll see many different ways. IMO, double wishbone suspensions are the hardest to modify in-scale. Often times, modelers offset the brake rotors on the steering knuckles. On my R33, I used a combination of modifying the steering knuckles and and off-setting the brake rotors. It's easier than it seems.
mustang1989 Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Hey John that's a good looking build for your first one! I know of alot of folks just starting out that don't make it to the finish line and end up chucking the whole build so kudo's to you for sticking with it. Don't get down yourself too bad as we all start from somewhere and none of us get to where we want to be in modeling overnight. Take your time, be patient and stick with the helpful people here on the forums and you'll take your modeling to places you never thought possible. You're doin' great man! Keep the momentum going and keep up the good work!
Speedfreak Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Hang in there John, not too bad really for your first one in so long. You'll get it together if you keep at it. Next time take your time and sand/file/test fit everything before you even think about paint. I really like the colors you used on this, you could just build another one now that you know what and where many of the problems are. It would most likely turn out much more to your liking.
microwheel Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Hi John, I just wanted to say not bad for your first build. If you don't mind, I'd like to give a little advice on this kit in case you try to build another one. I just recently finished up building one of these myself, so maybe I can give you some info on your fit issues. To start with here is the link to my WIP topic on my build if you want to use it as a guide http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=94747 . And a link to my finished build in the under glass area http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=95918#entry1307641 . One thing you need to know about this kit, though it is a great kit and very well detailed, AMT molded it with very tight tolerances and if not assembled and adjusted carefully it will not go together easily.. The most common issues for fit are with the glass and dashboard and where they mate up during final assembly. And the next biggest issue with fit is not getting the interior side panels lined up perfect which tends to create a bulge and not allow the body to flex enough over them. These things can be corrected though. The body chassis and interior will fool you into thinking they fit perfect until you get everything painted and the sub assemblies put together and then install the glass.. and that's when you'll find that things dont fit anymore. If you build this kit again.. spend plenty of time cleaning up any flash and test fitting alot... and I mean alot.. once you get to the point of assembling the interior make sure the side panels mate to the chassis flush and even and also especially make sure the dash sits perfect in the side panel slots for it.. And here is the biggest thing to do for the fit issue.. Sand and trim about a 1/16 of a inch off along the entire firewall edge of the dash board.. and also before setting the glass in place sand the tops and bottom edges of the front and back rear glass so that you have just the bare minimum of a edge to catch the body to tack them into place. These mods to the dash and glass with allow the interior and chassis to sit up into their proper places. As for why the chassis and interior would not slide up into the body when you were assembling it.. you should have left the rear body panel off and slid the top edges of the interior side panels from the back of the car toward the front, starting at the point of where the rear body panel sits.. once the interior and chassis is in place, apply a small amount of glue with a toothpick around the inner area of the body where the rear body panel sits and then slide the rear panel up between the chassis and body from the bottom. Also the rear spoiler, the front and rear bumpers, and the tires and wheels should be installed after the body and chassis are glued together.. the Spoiler will flex on the body and pop loose otherwise when you try to flex the body and chassis together. And lastly, the radiator assembly was not molded evenly and tends to sit on a slight angle from one side to the other.. A lot of test fitting and sanding will help you correct this issue, which can keep the front inner fenders form sitting in their proper place if you don't correct it, and can even cause the model to not sit properly on all four wheels. Hope I was able to provide you with some helpful info if you decide to try this build again. Jim
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