mustang1989 Posted January 28, 2015 Posted January 28, 2015 Acrylics seem to be catching on more and more and this guys got its use down pat! Love the paint work Tim!!
peekay Posted January 28, 2015 Posted January 28, 2015 I agree with others, that paint looks great, even before sanding/polishing. And your description is very helpful, might have to give it a try
taaron76 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Posted January 28, 2015 That looks amazing!! I have been thinning my Tamiya with lacquer thinner. I think I may have to switch now. I used to use the Tamiya acrylic thinner, but this was my first paint job using denatured alcohol and I like it better. It seemed to flow a little better and didn't dry as fast... or so it seemed. Tim
fitforbattle Posted January 31, 2015 Posted January 31, 2015 What clear do you use over the Tamiya X? Car is looking brilliant. Keep it up.
taaron76 Posted January 31, 2015 Author Posted January 31, 2015 I've only put clear orange over it as of now. Not sure if I will use normal clear as it might not need it. Tim
fitforbattle Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 I'd be terrified to shoot clear over acrylics. And Tamiyas X-Clear isn't all that shiny. So you might as well just skip it. If you don't know of a clear that's safe over the acrylics.
taaron76 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Posted February 1, 2015 I'd be terrified to shoot clear over acrylics. And Tamiyas X-Clear isn't all that shiny. So you might as well just skip it. If you don't know of a clear that's safe over the acrylics. Not sure I'm following you... I'd use clear acrylic, but I'll show you pics of Tamiya X-clear that will change your mind. Tim
fitforbattle Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 Not sure I'm following you... I'd use clear acrylic, but I'll show you pics of Tamiya X-clear that will change your mind. Tim Please do. Never seen X-clear being shiny enough.
1hobby1 Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 (edited) That paint is flawless! Great job. Edited February 1, 2015 by 1hobby1
cobramike Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 Here is my technique with pics included just to let you know that it doesn't cost millions of dollars to spray a glossy paint job on hobby car. I used a couple of different Bagder airbrushes. One single action and one dual. No rhyme or reason for using one over the other, other than paint control with the dual action badger. I'm using a compressor that I've had for over 20 years that my Mom bought me when I was a kid. I am getting ready to buy a really nice one, but it can be done with a cheap one. I have no idea what PSI I'm paint at, but the manual said this compressor was good to about 40, so probably somewhere in-between 25-35. One of the reasons I can't wait to purchase my new one next month is better flow, and regulated. I only use Tamiya acrylics when I paint, its just easier for cleanup and I feel really comfortable after using them over the last 5 builds. I just started using Tamiya lacquer primer and I love it. If the primer goes on super smooth, I generally won't sand it, just scuff it real quick. I thin the 23ml size bottles with 7-8ml of denatured alcohol and the 10ml bottle with 3-3.5ml of denatured alcohol. That will vary depending on what sheen you are using, too. I actually used closer to 9ml of denatured alcohol on the Gold Leaf because it was coming out very blotchy. I added another ml of denatured alcohol and it was perfect. Again, trial and error. I also use a spray booth since I paint inside. Nothing crazy about my technique other than I try to make sure each coat of my gloss coat is glossy and not a lot, if any, orange peel. I probably put 3-4 good coats of gloss over the base coat since that is all I've ever needed in order to achieve that smooth-wet look before sending it to the food dehydrator to cure for a day or two, or even just overnight. After about 7-10 days, I will start to wet sand and polish. This is one of the most crucial steps, but to be honest, wet sanding and polishing has never taken me more than an hour, tops. I know people spend hours and hours wet sanding and polishing, but maybe mine takes less time since it is very smooth and wet looking once it's dry? Not sure, but what works for one person, might not work for another. I just use microfine wet/dry sand paper and that seems to do the trick for taking out any imperfections, dust, or orange peel. I'd be happy to answer any questions if it helps anyone get over the fear of painting with acrylics or an airbrush. There are a ton of excellent painters on this site that come away with amazing finishes as well. I did a lot of reading prior to diving in with acrylics. Hope this helps... Tim Thanks for the write up. Looks like I will be shooting acrylic for my next build...love the shiny you know! Can't wait to see the finished car.
taaron76 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Posted February 1, 2015 (edited) Please do. Never seen X-clear being shiny enough. I guess it depends on what your interpretation of "shiny" is. It's one thing to be shiny, but the be glass shiny without any orange peel, is another. I'll let you decide what category this one falls into. Keep in mind I spent about five minutes wet sanding and polishing the roof. Prep and technique has always been the key to a nice paint job, in my opinion. Tim Edited February 1, 2015 by taaron76
taaron76 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Posted February 1, 2015 Thanks for the write up. Looks like I will be shooting acrylic for my next build...love the shiny you know! Can't wait to see the finished car. Thanks, Mike! I'm sure you will adapt to shoot acrylics, just like I did. Thanks again! Tim
fitforbattle Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 I guess it depends on what your interpretation of "shiny" is. It's one thing to be shiny, but the be glass shiny without any orange peel, is another. I'll let you decide what category this one falls into. Keep in mind I spent about five minutes wet sanding and polishing the roof. Prep and technique has always been the key to a nice paint job, in my opinion. Tim That looks terrific! Always liked Tamiyas acrylics but never tried to use them on bodies since I thought the clear wouldn't be this shiny (in my interpretation of it). Thanks for the pictures, now I have to try it. It looks really good.
taaron76 Posted February 3, 2015 Author Posted February 3, 2015 Not a whole bunch of updates on the '66 Shelby, but I got a little bit done. I'm stripping the chrome off of a few parts and then will get them painted. Finished up some of the rear suspension and started on the engine. I still have a lot to do, but I'm trying the graphite technique on the chassis to see how it comes out. Hopefully more updates tomorrow. Slow steps on this one... busy as can be as of late. Tim
mustang1989 Posted February 3, 2015 Posted February 3, 2015 I like the colors and detail on that engine Tim!! Rocker covers look sharp!!
taaron76 Posted February 3, 2015 Author Posted February 3, 2015 I like the colors and detail on that engine Tim!! Rocker covers look sharp!! Thanks, Joe! I was originally going to strip the chrome off and paint them aluminum, but I found so many different variations out there that I decided I liked the look of these valve covers the best. I love chrome/polished aluminum on an engine, and I wasn't trying to be original with this one, obviously, so I kinda went with what I thought looked best. The oil pan and carb were chromed, but those are soaking in Simple Green now. If you can't tell that I like "shiny" in an engine bay, here's some of my real world work. lol
mustang1989 Posted February 3, 2015 Posted February 3, 2015 That does look sharp! I just love those Fox body Mustangs!
taaron76 Posted February 4, 2015 Author Posted February 4, 2015 (edited) More updates today... I got some more of the engine completed, put a light wash on it as well as the graphite technique on the chassis with a light wash as well. I have to install the distributor and wires and get more of the engine completed over the next week or so. I completed the interior as well. I mocked the car up to see how it was looking, as so far, so good. Lots to do yet. Thanks for looking! Tim The white space will be painted and the aftermarket distort will be mounted there. A very subtle change with the graphite thats hard to tell, but it did make a difference. It's hard to tell in these pics though. Edited February 4, 2015 by taaron76
taaron76 Posted February 4, 2015 Author Posted February 4, 2015 Nothing special with the interior, just black and a little titanium to break up the black a little.
microwheel Posted February 4, 2015 Posted February 4, 2015 Really looking good Tim, Your paint job came out outstandingly smooth. I'll be following along as you go. You have a really clean and tidy building style and that really makes a model look good.
taaron76 Posted February 4, 2015 Author Posted February 4, 2015 I applied just a tad of Novus #2, then followed by #1. Not much will be needed on this one and I'm very happy with the paint. I have one small spot on the hood to fix, but I will do that this weekend with a coat or two of clear orange. I also forgot to paint the two small body moulding on the sides. A couple of mockup shots... I am VERY pleased with the stance and look. It's exactly what I was going for. There is still loads to do though. I have to finish all of the wiring in the engine bay and sure the internet for reference pics. Nothing but time, right? Tim
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