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70.5 Baldwin Motion Camaro Finally Finished!


microwheel

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Thank you for your complement on my grille. I have had some success with alclad on a straight axel on a Stone Woods & Cook Willy's ounce. I actually take a small endmill and put it in my Drexel and just take my time. I have a GTO coming up and I think I will try the MCG, and alclad like yours. By the way that ref pic is frick'in awesome It is now my wall paper.

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Thanks Joe, If you haven't tried any of the Model Car Garage detail kits yet, your gonna like what those guys do with them. They have alot of other stuff too that's worth checking out. As for the Alclad II, I only use it when I absolutely need to, its so easy to mess it up with applying too much or not getting the prep work just right, that I try not to have to use it, but sometimes............!

Glad you liked the reference pic, I have a bunch of em. I usually grab as many as I can find when working on a project. I know alot of guys work on several model projects at once, but I usually work on one at a time and put all my effort into finishing that one. Guess im just not a multi-tasker lmao

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One last update for tonight.

I decided to go ahead and install the grill before calling it a night. Here is a couple of pics of the grill fitted in the nose of the Camaro.ignore my messy workbench. I'll get around to cleaning it up in the next couple of days.

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to be continued lol

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Update for this evening.

Got the radiator mounted to the sub-frame assembly, got the front sub frame assembly mounted to the rest of the car. Mounted the front wheels. I know it doesn't sound like alot but it took a good deal of the day.

To mount the sub-frame to the chassis and body, there are 6 mounting points, 2 in the front by the radiator and 4 where the sub-frame joins the chassis. To get things to go together without alot of binding and twisting, (amt was known for making things fit tight or in such a way that you ended up with a warped frame look), I applied a small amount of model cement to the mounting points near the radiator, and then set the sub-frame to the front fender mounting points allowing the back of the sub-frame near the chassis to hang down free. once the model cement had set up fairly well, I went over those same mounting points now joined in their place at the fenders, with a small amount of 5 minute epoxy, then I let this sit and harden up for a hour. Once that was done, I then applied a small amount of model cement to the 4 mounting points on the chassis that were still exposed since the sub-frame was a little tilted away from the chassis. I then pressed the back of the sub-frame into the mounting points on the chassis, and with a slight clicking sound, (this was from things being really tight), the sub-frame locked into place on the chassis.

The real test came when setting the front wheels, if there was going to be any frame miss-alignment it was going to show at the front wheels. As luck would have it, the front wheels mounted true, level and straight. You have to remember, I reworked the front suspension a little bit, so that was my reason for worrying about this. But all went well and the biggest head-ache was now out of the way.

I can now move on to the final assembly and detail work. There is still lots more to do, like tying everything together, as well as some final assembly, and a bit more detailing.

For now here is a couple pics of the sub-assembly and engine in place. I'll post more as I get a little farther along toward the finish line so to speak lol.

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Now maybe I can finish running out the fuel line up to the cool can once I get it ready to go in the car. The side pipes will be one of the last things to go on since I still got to handle the model alot to finish up the detail work.

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To be continued lol

Edited by microwheel
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would to still learn how to do those brake lines and emerengy brake line.Your doing a great job love the motor also the whole thing looks great.

Hi John, sorry I haven't had time to sit down and do a full how-to write up on making brake and E-brake lines. Between working on this model, and dealing with a lot of running for my wife who is dealing with lymphoma cancer, time hasn't been my friend. But as soon as time allows me, maybe I will try to create a how-to post over in the tips tricks and tutorials area.

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Jim, My heart goes out to you with regard to your wife's condition and I join with all who are wishing and praying for her total and speedy recovery. I am no stranger to the curse called cancer and to a small extent anyways, I can identify with you and what you must be going through. My wife falling ill is my worst nightmare because she is my best friend and has stood at my side for well in excess of 30 years. My absolute best wishes...

The Camaro sure is looking good and the workmanship is superb! So what's next on the agenda once the Camaro is on the shelf for all the world to see and admire? I have a '79 Camaro that I can send you to work on if you ask nicely... :D:D:D

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Hi John, sorry I haven't had time to sit down and do a full how-to write up on making brake and E-brake lines. Between working on this model, and dealing with a lot of running for my wife who is dealing with lymphoma cancer, time hasn't been my friend. But as soon as time allows me, maybe I will try to create a how-to post over in the tips tricks and tutorials area.

Jim, I have prayed for your wife. Everytime I see this topic, your wife's health comes to mind. I hope she is not any worse...

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Thanks everyone, my wife went through cemo 1 day a week for 4 weeks, as the doctor thought that was all she would need. her last one was 3 weeks ago. this past week she had a doctors appointment and he wanted to do some follow up blood work while she was there just to see how things were looking. Her blood counts were up but not very much, or not as much as he thought they should be by now, so she has to start back on 4 more weeks of cemo starting this coming week. The drug they are doing her treatments with is called Rituxan, and if it doesn't do what he thinks it should this time, then she will have to go on a more traditional type of cemo treatment. what she has is called Splenic marginal zone lymphoma. It starts in the spleen and gets into the bone marrow. The survival rate depends on how a person responds to treatment. Rituxan is supposed to be the best treatment for this type of cancer, so our hope is that she starts responding better to it. There is no cure for this type of lymphoma, but if a person responds well to treatment, they can go into long term remission, which is what we are hoping for. This is what we have been dealing with, then throw in the fact that our 15 year old adopted son was diagnosed with crons this past spring, it's made for a wonderful year. We have insurance, through Blue Cross, but they nicely told us we have to meet a $12,500 dollar per year deductible before they will cover anything, and the fun just keeps on coming. LOL. So you can see why I wrap myself up into the hobby. It takes my mind off things, even if it is for just a little while in the course of a day. The nice thing about it is, I ask her to pick out the project she wants me to work on, so she does, and that inspires me to keep at it till it's finished, if for no other reason that for her to see it done. Because I know there will come a day when she wont be able to.

Edited by microwheel
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I'm not a multi-taskerer my self, but I still find myself trying to be. As far as the MCG stuff I have used plenty of it, but I just can't seem to put paint over it. Now I have seen what you did with the dash, and grille I will start painting the stuff. Once I painted the blades of a detail master's flex fan on a Nova and it looked good come to think of it, but the raw metal just looks so good. Any who your Bald Mo looks awesome friend..

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I'm not a multi-taskerer my self, but I still find myself trying to be. As far as the MCG stuff I have used plenty of it, but I just can't seem to put paint over it. Now I have seen what you did with the dash, and grille I will start painting the stuff. Once I painted the blades of a detail master's flex fan on a Nova and it looked good come to think of it, but the raw metal just looks so good. Any who your Bald Mo looks awesome friend..

Thanks Joe

For the photo etched stuff that has recesses with higher script that needs to be chrome looking, I usually just paint the whole part with a flat color, and then lightly sand over it till the higher script shows through the paint. For photo etched parts that need the whole part painted, I use Tamiya ultra fine grey or white primer which lays on really smooth and doesn't need to be applied heavy, then paint the part. You can remove the photo etched parts for paint by laying them on a piece of masking tape and cutting them loose, this allows the part to have something to stick to so you can paint the part you need without having to try and hold such tiny parts. The tape does the holding for you. And you don't loose the part after you cut it loose that way. Most photo etched parts that do need to be painted, really only need to be painted on one side anyways, and the tape keeps one side of the part unpainted for you so when you apply it to your model, either with CA glue (which I have never been fond of for applying photo etched parts), 5 minute epoxy or clear lacquer, the bare metal side will take the adhesion better that a painted side would.

Also when I work with installing my photo etched stuff, I do it with everything in a shallow cardboard box, this way in the event that a part goes flying on me, it only goes as far as the box lets it, and makes it easier to find. I learned that lesson after spending many hours on the floor looking for a one of a kind photo etched part, lol.

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Morning Guys, got alot done the past few days. Mostly got the engine and engine bay detailed. May not seem like alot, but it sure seemed like it took long enough for me. I didn't take pics during the process, I was just to involved to stop and snap pics. But I will do my best to describe what I did. First you got to remember, I'm not building a 100% fresh from the factory version, this is more along the lines of the guy/or gal who has had their ride for awhile and dressed it up a little for a show here and there, or maybe just to show off to their friends. It's more a street version than a drag strip version. You know, the person that wants it fast, but also wants to take it on the local color tour with the weekend Camaro club. Besides, the Baldwin Motion Camaros weren't factory, anyways. They were dealer modified. LOL

Anyways, on with the details..

The first thing I did was to throw out the crappy kit supplied battery and dug through the parts boxes till I found one that Looked better. While digging for that, I ran across a windshield washer bottle, and thought to myself "hummm, why not", so out it came to the bench. These were then painted and detailed and tucked into the engine bay. And Yes some of the 70 BM Camaros had windshield washer bottles. I have pics of them if you need to see lol.

Next thing I did was to assemble, paint, and detail the fuel cool can. Once I did assemble it, I didn't like the way the top of it was kinda rough looking, even after sanding, so I got out my trusty hole punch and made a new top for it out of evergreen plastic. Once it was painted and installed, I finished running the fuel lines to it complete with hose clamps.

Next a photo etched radiator cap was added to the radiator, since for some reason there really wasn't one detailed into the radiator by AMT.

Next the upper and lower radiator hoses were painted and detailed with hose clamps and installed.

The ignition module was then bare metal foiled and then a black wash was added to get the look I wanted. It was then detailed with ignition wire and installed on the firewall.

Next I added heater hoses with hose clamps. Yes the correct ones would have been black, but I wanted to contrast the engine bay with a little more color, so I went with red ones. I also made a fender hanger bracket for the hoses out of a scrap strip of photo etched sprue bent to shape. I also used a piece of the same material for the windshield washer bottle line bracket on the drivers fender.

The hood latch and horn assembly was then detail painted and installed.

And finally the brake booster and master cylinder were assembled and painted and installed to the firewall and the brake lines were tied into it.

All that's left to do for the engine bay is add the hood pins during final car assembly. Which I hope to start on the first of the week. I plan to spend the weekend with the wife since our son is spending it with one of his friends.

Anyways here is a couple pics of the engine and engine bay completed.

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More to come as I get things done.

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