Snakebite Customs Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 I needed a companion to my 359 Pete. So i had this one i got for xmas. Does anyone have any tips,advice for this kit. I noticed it has no paint call outs so i need to locate that stuff online. But other than that This is my new project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Hearse Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 My advice... just enjoy building it! I really would like to get that kit myself. I'll be keeping an eye on your project, this will be cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snakebite Customs Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 Anyone have an idea on how to get this cab and sleeper to line up so it can be glued together? Why its not a one-piece ill never know lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackinac359 Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Back in the early 70's AMT molded it in multi pieces so they could use the front of the cab for the non-sleeper version. Easy for them, difficult for builders. I end up assembling the cab and either A). Live with the visible seam, or . fill the seam, lose the rivets and reapply them with Archer or Micromark decal rivets. The sleeper section of the interior tub seems to have grown over the years - I leave it out until after the main interior tub is slid into place, then I put the sleeper section of the interior in (it might need additional trimming to fit easily). If you assemble the main interior and sleeper section and try to fit it in, you will probably break open the cab seams creating much frustration. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Missing in Action Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 I used .010'' thick evergreen sheet as a tab glued inside the cab,then taped the outside skin right up to the edge on the front cab section and did the same on the outside of the sleeper so when i glued the pieces together, I would simply use my finger and wipe the seam and not smear glue everywhere and be a mess!! Then when the glue dried, I would peel the tape off and have very little bodywork to do. Oh, and clamping the cab and sleeper together while it dries is also helpful!!! Roy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hessel Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 My version of this kit It is a nice kit, I glued the cab joins one by one. started with the left side. Let it dry, the roof side second. Again some drying and finish with the right side. This allows you to line-up the parts properly. I know it is still quite hard but it worked for me. Minor filler had to be used and I managed to keep the rivets in place. Hessel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37 caddy Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Hi All, what i do is i put a peice of glass on the bench and lay a sheet of 400 or 500 grit sandpaper on it and use it to block the edges smooth,lay the cab on the seam side down and move it back and forth,only remove enough to get it perfectly flat,do the same to the rear section too.you should be able to get a perfect fit,it helps the peices fit tight so the seam doesnt show.kind of hard to explain,but i think most of you will know what i mean. Harvey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72 Charger Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 I remember reading on another thread that the headlights need to be lowered down to be more accurate to the original truck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Repstock Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 I remember reading on another thread that the headlights need to be lowered down to be more accurate to the original truck ! This is quite true. Any google pic will illustrate this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olsbooks Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Though nowhere in the league of some of the others, I had a thread going a few weeks ago on my build. I live in hotel rooms and dont have alot of tools and do this on a shoestring budget and give them away to friends. Anyway, just finished mine up. What worked quite well (givenbudget and tool limitations) was using cheap and thick water based paint like I use on the interior as a "final filler" on the cab seams as I did not want to blow out the rivet detail with sanding. Perfect? No way. Better than sanding along? Absolutely. Plastered it in paint and let it dry. Ran it under the hotel room sink and just kind of smeared things in place. Let dry. Then just used wet Q tips to remove the extra. Also, I found the shifter tower took some trimming to get to fit well so the cab would sit flush on the rear mounts. If I had to do over again, spend time on the cab mounts, shifter base and grille alignment as soon as possible. I also put "chrome" foil on the fuel tanks, visor, battery box and over the front bumper to make it look more like a one piece style. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hary Bare Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 (edited) Ben, I recently completed this kit. It was fun to build but I too asked a lot of questions and received tons of useful replies. About the cab, I glued small strips to the inside of the cab, about 1 inch aprt and made sure they were flat and left overnite. I put sandpaper on a piece of glass and lightly ran both haves to flatten. After piecing together I glued from the inside between the strips, rubber band them and set overnite. Removed strips and finished glueing inside. I had a nice crisp seam when dried and used spot putty to fill the seam. I used sanding sticks and blocks to clean up. It came out nice. The front axle is too wide so I found center and cut 3 3/2 from each side, drilled and pinned the axle and reglued, then cleaned up with putty. You will have to modifly the axle mounting pads to fit. Or delete the brakes and you are closer to correct. Put the grill on the frame and test fit the cab, then place your rear mounts appropriatly. At this point do youself a favor and test fit the front bumper. Towards the end of my build I found I needed to trim the frame horns and lose the mounting spots on the bumper itself to make the cab clear the bumper when tilted. To the interior tub, gently test fit. If it starts binding, start trimming until it fits easily. Then test fit the privacy curtain and tub for fit, I had to trim my curtain. The steps on each side are terrible! take your time and be carefull you use the right pieces for the correct side. I should have taken advice and bought aftermarket or sturrups. I ended up modifying mine and painting black. Exhaust pipes are too small. buy some tubing at hobby shop and replace them. I still haven't done mine. Paint? The engine is supposed to be cummins beige, rocker cover painted I guess, I painted mine. Be carefull with the air intake grill to motor, mine was finicky fit. My truck is black and gold, so I painted frame gloss black w/ flat and semi gloss black particulars. Other than that, just test fit EVERYTHING and you will be happy with your results! Lets see some pics? Enjoy. Edited March 24, 2013 by Hary Bare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truck parts Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Very nice looking trucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnakeBite Models Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 For some reason i cant get into my other account lol. Anyways here are a few update pics. I did have it painted Testors Star Spangled blue but I have to redo it since I glued the rear wall in after i painted it. And well it needed some work. But other than that its coming along Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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