Carb Coloration

[m408]

Best way to change chrome spru carbs color to realistic?

[Jairus]

First, strip the chrome with oven cleaner. (Don't even think of breathing the fumes!!!)

Second, drill holes for the fuel line and vacuum line(s).

Third, mix some Alclad chrome with Alclad gold about 50/50 and spray that on the carb(s).

Then, mix up some thinner with black.... about 30% flat black with 70% Model Master paint thinner and wash it into the cracks.

Lastly, use silver to detail any bolt heads, linkage or fuel lines. If there is a cold start coil on the passenger side... that should be semi gloss black.

If you want to do a lift off aircleaner or photo etch linkage.... that is a whole 'nother chapter!

[James W]

I use the same technique as Jairus, but mix Model Master silver and brass to achieve the coloring you are after. Follow up with a flat clear coat.

[Jairus]

That works too.

Problem is... the black wash will lift the enamel paint, therefore that is why I like to use the Alclad "Lacquers" first. The wash has little effect on lacquer paint unless you scrub the brush real hard.

Another technique after the wash has dried.... is to lightly dry brush silver over the tops of all the details. This works on most metallic objects as raised edges tend to experience wear and remain shiny metallic.

[Andy Wyatt]

I usually go two parts brass and one part titanium...sometimes I might add a bit of aluminum to ligheten up or maybe a tiny drop of dark flat green military color to green it up a tad...

[fordsixty]

if memory serves me right , pretty much every american 4bbl carb, from the 60s and the 70s, came yellow chromated. the only ones i can remember, that were white chromated, were the carter thermoquad, came exclusively on chrysler products. it has a black plastic body (the lower part) and the top is white chromate. the other 4bbl is the autolite 4100. both top and bottom are white chromate.

as stated by bluesman, the edelbrock (formally carter AFB, cast by weber) is polished chromate along with some custom holleys, demons and proforms.

also, i use westley's bleche-wite (tire cleaner) to strip chrome. fill a tupperware bowl with it and just dip the parts. works great.

[Helipilot16]

I keep it simple. I paint them gold, then go over it with Testors tail light amber. The result is the mottled look of stock yellow zinc chromate.

[James W]

After reading all the input to this thread, I'm changing my answer.

Check your references and paint it.

[m408]

I keep it simple. I paint them gold, then go over it with Testors tail light amber. The result is the mottled look of stock yellow zinc chromate.

Thanks all, but I like this idea. Seems like something that a novice like me could handle. Not building show cars, would just like them to look a little more real.

[Lyle Willits]

Depends on the carb, but a simple solution is to paint the carb body with Testors "jet exhaust". It's just the right color, in my opinion.

[CAL]

I have always used a mix of brass and steel.

yellow zinc chromate: not even close to the "cool yellow" of ZC, which is always yellow unless an indicator is add.

I am somewhat of an expert on ZC.

[Helipilot16]

I have always used a mix of brass and steel.

yellow zinc chromate: not even close to the "cool yellow" of ZC, which is always yellow unless an indicator is add.

I am somewhat of an expert on ZC.

I used to rebuild carburetors and learned how to recoat Holleys and Rochesters. It requires a diode, anode, and bath with low voltage and high amperage. Not exactly the sort of thing one can do to a plastic or resin 1/25 carb

[m408]

I used to rebuild carburetors and learned how to recoat Holleys and Rochesters. It requires a diode, anode, and bath with low voltage and high amperage. Not exactly the sort of thing one can do to a plastic or resin 1/25 carb

Diode, I have. Anode, I can get. Have a bath tub. What voltage and amperage?

[CAL]

I used to rebuild carburetors and learned how to recoat Holleys and Rochesters. It requires a diode, anode, and bath with low voltage and high amperage. Not exactly the sort of thing one can do to a plastic or resin 1/25 carb

That could be, but it's not ZC (ZnCrO4).

ZC chromate is a chemical reaction to create a yellowish colored protective coating for aluminum. In fact, ZC is highly reactive with aluminum.

Developed by the Ford Motor Company in the 1930's - initially it was rejected by the US Military until the mid 1930's when it stared to become a standard primer for the aircraft industry.

Certian "Indicators" were also used that created everything from greens to pink AKA salmon and rust colors.

Carbon was also sometimes added to speed the natrual aging process of ZC to create other greens - more of a candy apple green.

The protective coating for carbs is a Cadmium plating (or Yellow Zinc Dicromate - also a plating procedure) process that is nowhere near the same process, or results that you would get from ZC.

The closest similarity for Aluminum would be anodizing, and remember many carb bodies are not aluminum but zinc die-casting.

Not withstanding ZC is generally sprayed on and Cadium Zinc plating is done much like other plating processes. Electricity in a tank with some solution.

HTH

[Helipilot16]

That could be, but it's not ZC (ZnCrO4).

ZC chromate is a chemical reaction to create a yellowish colored protective coating for aluminum. In fact, ZC is highly reactive with aluminum.

Developed by the Ford Motor Company in the 1930's - initially it was rejected by the US Military until the mid 1930's when it stared to become a standard primer for the aircraft industry.

Certian "Indicators" were also used that created everything from greens to pink AKA salmon and rust colors.

Carbon was also sometimes added to speed the natrual aging process of ZC to create other greens - more of a candy apple green.

The protective coating for carbs is a Cadmium plating (or Yellow Zinc Dicromate - also a plating procedure) process that is nowhere near the same process, or results that you would get from ZC.

The closest similarity for Aluminum would be anodizing, and remember many carb bodies are not aluminum but zinc die-casting.

Not withstanding ZC is generally sprayed on and Cadium Zinc plating is done much like other plating processes. Electricity in a tank with some solution.

HTH

Actually I never said it was ZnCr04. I was talking about yellow zinc dichromate. It is used every day to color the pot metal used in both Holley and Rochester carburetors. The carb is hung on a copper rod in an acidic bath. This copper rod is hooked up to a low voltage high amperage source (a car battery works pretty well). A sacrificial zinc plate is lowered into the bath and hooked up to the negative side of the same power source. When power is applied the zinc travels to the carb and plates it. This can take a couple of hours or overnight, depending on the solution of the bath and the power used.

[CAL]

Actually I never said it was ZnCr04. I was talking about yellow zinc dichromate. It is used every day to color the pot metal used in both Holley and Rochester carburetors. The carb is hung on a copper rod in an acidic bath. This copper rod is hooked up to a low voltage high amperage source (a car battery works pretty well). A sacrificial zinc plate is lowered into the bath and hooked up to the negative side of the same power source. When power is applied the zinc travels to the carb and plates it. This can take a couple of hours or overnight, depending on the solution of the bath and the power used.

You wrote yellow zinc chromate though, not dichromate.

"I keep it simple. I paint them gold, then go over it with Testors tail light amber. The result is the mottled look of stock yellow zinc chromate."

[m408]

Guys, you have all been really helpfull, but, I only asked "what time is it?" not how to build a clock. I appreciate the knowledge and skill levels that you all have, but I am a novice. I'm going with the "paint them gold and add some amber overcoat". Something that I can handle. Thanks again.

[cruz]

Too much detail in this forum, I am joining another one with lower stress levels!!!