sno_man80 Posted March 2, 2007 Share Posted March 2, 2007 First of all thanks to everyone who handed down the advice to warm rattle cans. Secondly, I just painted the cab of the Revell Ford Duallie. I have a paint gathering at the cab corner and the molding and seem to have "specs" of what looks like air bubbles on the roof. Between shooting the metalicc black and primer I took a tack cloth to it. And looked it over real well. Now I need to know the best way to sand down the thick areas and reshoot a second coat make it look good, please help, I'm getting tired of this. I figured I was past paint flops awhile ago. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismaelg Posted March 2, 2007 Share Posted March 2, 2007 Hello, First, make sure the paint is dry enough to sand. If the paint is not dry it will goo up the sandpaper and will be a mess. I don't know how bad or how much you need to sand, so I would recommend start with either 400 or 600 grit sandpaper. Wrap the sandpaper in a piece of foam or wood or anything else that would keep its shape. Using water to keep the sandpaper and the area wet, slowly start sanding the area. Keep the sanding only to the area needed. Check your progress very often by wiping out the water and see how it looks. Take care not to sand away any details like moldings or door handles etc. After that, go to a finer grade sandpaper (higher number) and repeat the process with 600, 800, 1000 and up to 1200. If you have a polishing kit, you can go up to 3200. Once it is smooth to the touch (don't trust your eyes only) wipe it clean and make sure it is dry before shooting any more paint. When shooting more paint, use light coats. Don't worry if the first coat does not cover the area completely. More light coats will do the trick. This is easier than it sounds. It is just a bit tricky to explain in words. I hope this helps. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zebm1 Posted March 2, 2007 Share Posted March 2, 2007 To re-enforce Izzy's 1st point. Yu gotta let yur paint "Gass out", in simple terms tha gas that they put in tha cans so's tha paint will come out of tha cans has to evaporate before any paint is hard enuff to sand. Anywhere from 3 to 7 days or more, depending on how thick (number of coats) that yu lay on what yur painting. Patience, Patience and more patience.......an don't drink any beers while yur waiting.....yu'll convince yurself tha paint it dry and really muck it up. :wink: :twisted: Zeb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 2, 2007 Share Posted March 2, 2007 To re-enforce Izzy's 1st point. Yu gotta let yur paint "Gass out", in simple terms tha gas that they put in tha cans so's tha paint will come out of tha cans has to evaporate before any paint is hard enuff to sand. Zeb Actually the "gas" they put in the cans to force the paint out evaporates immediately. What you have to wait for is the solvents in the paint (the liquid part that holds the pigment in suspension) to evaporate. Lacquers and acrylics dry quickly, while enamels take a loooooong time for their solvents to completely evaporate, and for the paint to totally harden. A simple trick: if your paint still smells like paint, it's not dry yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sno_man80 Posted March 2, 2007 Author Share Posted March 2, 2007 Thank you everybody for your help. I started with an app. 600 grit paper, as well as a sharp hobby knife, it actually worked to take the "thick spot off the cab corner and molding, then I upped the paper to a much higher grit, then finished it off with a meer smooth sand paper (sorry I don't know the exact grit, I just so happen to have it lying around) The paint came off real nice and smoothly, the wet sanding really helped. There were specks on the roof so I completely sanded it across the roof, not down to the primer just evenly as I figure this is where imperfections will show the best. I will allow it to sit for a few hours then blow dry the nooks and crannies then take a tack cloth tho the enitre body then repaint 1 or 2 coats over it. How long should I wait between coats? I am going to go clean out my spray room (basement storage unit!) reall well to avoid any further specks. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stingray69 Posted March 3, 2007 Share Posted March 3, 2007 I usually wait about 20-30 minutes between coats... really depends on the paint and the conditions. I don't apply clear until the color coats have had ample time to dry. About the actual problem you had, it sounded like the surface might of been dirty before paint. Although there might have been no visible dirt, sometimes oil from your skin can cause them weird looking air bubbles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordairgtar Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 One thing you could do is strip the paint and do it again. Use Super Clean or brake fluid to strip. It won't hurt the plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelmartin Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 To control dust in your paint area get a trigger spray bottle of water and mist the area a minute or so before you paint. Do it in your spray booth too. I find it really helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sno_man80 Posted March 6, 2007 Author Share Posted March 6, 2007 Thanks everyone for the great advice, I fixed the problem with little notifing results. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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