Stingray69

Hmm, I always thought Mark was a well known and respected figure in the hobby, gee... :?

I posted this a while back. Hope it helps!

Well being a Led head I have to give you the thumbs up! Very nice work, love all the details :shock: BTW they used to use "Rock and Roll" in their ads... I guess their rights to use the song is up :? Page is pretty strict about people using their work, which is cool with me because he is God!

Zeb, there's plenty of room there. Leg room is still stock, and the chop was only about 3 inches (scaled up of course). The driver sits much lower than stock so it's all good! I got the body stretched, still needs a lot of shaping and filling! :?

I'm a Paashe man myself but I've always heard great things about Iwata's. The gravity feed is a nice feature as well.

This is one of the most detailed models I've seen, and its all done very cleanly. Just absolutely amazing! You're definitely the Scale Master!

Welcome to the MCM Forum!! I'm really liking your work, esepcially the Camaro! Nice 1:1 rides too 8)

I usually wait about 20-30 minutes between coats... really depends on the paint and the conditions. I don't apply clear until the color coats have had ample time to dry. About the actual problem you had, it sounded like the surface might of been dirty before paint. Although there might have been no visible dirt, sometimes oil from your skin can cause them weird looking air bubbles.

Very nice work so far! Excellent work with the paint, that color is a winner for sure 8)

Happy B-Day MCM!! I'm glad I found this forum and the mag! Thanks for the fine work.

Off to a really great start! I really like your work, nice and clean 8)

Izzy that looks pretty good especially after your clean up work. You've gotten some good tips so far but just let me add my thoughts... For starters the tubing your using looks a little large for 1/25. I stick with 1/16" when it comes to roll cages. This is the process I use when soldering brass. By no means is this the only way, works for me so I stuck with. I use an $8 40 watt iron I found at my LHS. I prefer the iron to a torch because it allows me to get into tight spots with out loosening other joints. If you can get your hands on silver solder, get it. If not I use rosin core. Not as strong but still takes a major beating! -Add flux to the joint being soldered, not too much or it gets messy. Melt the flux and heat the brass using a mini torch or a soldering iron. A small butane torch is handy. -Add more flux a few seconds later but don't do anymore melting or heating -Add a little bit of solder to the tip of your iron. The amount will really depend on the tubing size, but its much easier to add more solder then it is to remove it :wink: -Apply the tip of the iron to the joint and allow the solder to flow for a few seconds. If you got plenty of flux on the joint, the solder should have welded it all up. If needed add a just a tad of flux and then add more solder. If you did this right there should little to no clean up needed. These are just pics of one the frames I've done in the past... chances are you've seen them but just in case No clean up was needed.

The details in this thing! I'm really at a loss for words too!

:shock: That is looking very WILD! Love that shifter! Keep up the good work on this beast!

Thanks Chris! No, I haven't started any of the frame or tub work yet. I still need to get the body stretched a bit up front then I'll begin the frame. I'll be scratch building it out of brass, similar to my previous drag projects (which I still have yet to finish :oops:)

Hey whats one more project on the bench! I've been wanting to make 69 Corvette Pro Mod for months now but never knew how to approach it. The biggest problem was try to get a set of slicks under the Vette and still have a great stance and plenty of clearance. So what I did was remove the entire back portion (quarters, deck, and what I guess are the c pillars) of the car as one piece, starting right at the rear wheel wells. Sorry I don't have pics of it apart, kind of wish I had taken some because it gets tough explain. I then raised the whole back end up creating more room for a set of slicks and in the process giving it a lowered look. Next I chopped the top and layed back the a pillars some. Some shaping, filling, and sanding later and I got what I hope will be a good platform for my style of pro modified. This is another drag Vette I'm doing... using it to show the body differences. The body is stock however. And this is my pro modified version. The body is nearly laying on the ground and I still have 1/8" clearance between the rear deck and the slicks underneath. The body is still extremely rough obviously. I still need to stretch it up front some, not positive on how much yet. A wing/spoiler will need to be integrated some how... again not positive on what style. I'm on the finishing steps of a Chopper, once thats done I'm going to get back on this. 8)

Your Welcome! Hopes this helps people out

And another beauty rolls off Bill Geary's bench! Excellent work Bill 8)

First you'll need a site to host your photos, Photobucket is the most convienent, its easy and most importantly its free :wink: Ok lets say you want to post a pic of this cuda... -Right click anywhere on the picture and go to properties. A box will pop up, copy the "URL" (circled in red) -Click on the "Img" button in the posting area here, two tags will appear in the posting box, If you do use photobucket heres a time saving tip. Underneath the pic on your photobucket album will be 3 different codes. Copy the last one that has the IMG beside and then simply paste it here.

The actually number will vary depending on who you talk to, some say 43 or 44, although some experts i've talked to said 43, I don't think as many as 61 were produced. The reason the 83 was never sold or put into production was due to a massive amount of quality issues with it, which is typical for a completely new design, case in point, the 68. If you want to replicate the 83 you'll need an 84-90 Vette. The bodies were nearly identical for them years until 91... I might double check a few sources but I think they were mostly the same from 84-90. MPC did an 84 (probably one on eBay) and Monogram did one I think... for some reason I think it was a snaptite. The one in the Corvette Museum is white.

Any specfic type of drag tire you're looking for? Competition Resins makes a couple nice sets, cheater slicks, and T/F slicks. Pegasus released their version of the "So Real" slicks a few weeks ago. So Real sold the mold. These are probably some of the best drag slicks out there. So-Real Slicks They also have dragster front rims and funny car front rims as well.

Ah another cool chopper! Really like what you have done there Craig, great work 8) This one has me itching to get mine off the bench!

Absolutely gorgeous 8) Excellent, excellent work!!

Man I be happy just to get a solid color as nice as yours! Excellent work! Which wheels are you planning to use, I noticed two sets?

I use regular Dawn dishwashing soap... the blue kind. It seems to work great for me, leaves no residue and I believe Dawn has a degreaser in it. I have yet to have a problem after using it :wink: