Stingray69

Model Express Detail Master Scale Dreams Hope you find what you need

Bill, he's still in business, I meant to order some stuff of him a few months ago. He posts here as "astroracer". Check the memberslist and you can contact him with what you need.

Well first off you're going to have to figure out how big of tires you want. 9 times out of 10 you will have to narrow the rear section of the frame for a set of slicks to fit. This usually can be done cutting off the rear portion of the frame, adding a new crossmember, and then a new narrower rear sub frame. After thats done you can make your tubs. I personally like to use metal because its easy to form and it holds it shape. With plastic you'll need a heat source to get the tubs to hold there shape. One trick that helps in the process is to make a template first... index cards work well here. Once you got the template to fit ok transfer it to the metal or styrene. You'll still need to trim a bit to get a good fit. Once one side is done its only a matter of tracing the pattern again. Don't be surprised if this takes some trial and error... it'll take plenty of paietence. This is a set of "mini" tubs I built for an Outlaw 10.5 Corvette i'm working on... there's still some work that needs to be done on them (notice the tubs aren't perfectly flush with the body, that drives me nuts!!) but hopefully this will give you a clearer picture with the explanation above. Another option you have is to find an already "tubbed" kit. The Revell 67 Chevelle Pro Street is great for this or the AMT 70 Superbee Pro Street. These kits already have the work done its only a matter of getting them to fit by trimming the tubs. You can also just cut off the rear portion of the frame and mold it to any other frame you want. Hope this helps some!!

You have a few options for this: Cut out a small piece of Bare Metal Foil (often called BMF) place it over the area. You'll be able to tell up close that its there, but in pictures and from a few inches away nobody will ever know. Touch it up with paint. This generally creates more of mess in my opinion and doesn't blend well with the kit chrome. Strip the part and rechrome it using "Alclad II" or "Spaz Stix Chrome". Alclad II needs to be airbrush over a black basecoat. Spaz Stix can be airbrushed, but they also have a spray can version available as well. It too should be applied over a black basecoat. If you do it right it can come nicer than the kit chrome in my opinion. Have it rechromed by a company. I only know of one that does this, Chrome Tech USA. It can get expensive really fast.

You're gonna a variety of suggestions here but this is only my two cents worth. I recommend getting a Paashe VL double or single action airbrush. I picked up the double action last summer from Tower Hobbies last summer for only $70. Its all metal, so its very durable. The kit comes with everything you need except a compressor and paint. A double action airbrush will allow full control over the paint and air flow. When you press the lever/trigger down you'll only get air, once you start pulling it back the paint will flow. This is a great feature for more detailed paint jobs like fade-a-ways and flame work. Now with a single action you're more limited. You can only press the trigger down resulting in less control. You can change the tips for different spray patterns. So really you'll have to make that call, I say get the double action because you'll always have that extra control. I use a Testors Mini Blue compressor with my Paashe. I originally got it with a Testors airbush kit years ago but the airbrush broke. I added a water trap (traps moisture in the air) and a regulator to it. I can get 35psi out of it which seems to be plenty for my painting needs.

Thats Kip Dupuis 57 Buick Pro Mod... not a stock piece on that bad boy. Don't think it ever saw much competition, seen a few test runs. I believe Tim Mcamis was the builder.

Try these sites... www.detailmaster.com www.scaledreams.com www.modelcargarage.com www.modelexpress.net Hope that helps a bit!

They might have a server problem.. the number part like upload4 or upload5 generally indicates serperate server. This has happened to me once or twice with photobucket. How long has it been going on?

Unfortunately the Penske kit won't work as a 67. The 67 Vette had different side "gills" than previous years.

The Revell 69 Camaro Convertible, Yenko, and I think the Z-28 have a seperate fuel pump, the 67-69 Revell Vettes have seperate fuel pumps as well. Hope this helps some.

Ah now that is a beauty! Very nice job replicating one of the coolest Camaro's 8)

Pro Mod frames differ from car to car... some slightly some extremely. They all have the same key features but can look completely different. Every chassis builder out there has their own method of building a frame too. I salvaged some pics of a pro mod nova I started back in may, I had more pics of the frame step by step but can't seem to find them. You're gonna want to start with the bottom frame rails first like shown below, its best now to do all the bracing. Its important that everything is straight because the rest of the frame will build off it. If this step is off the rest of the frame will be off. The roll bar was also added in this pic I started shaping the cage next... although you can start adding the next set of frame rails next... The top framerails will generally bend in to make room for a drivers seat, some will only do the driver side rail but usually they both bend in (check the frame for the camaro below for a better view) This was the almost completed frame, more bars and bracing were added later. This is my most recent frame.. for an Outlaw Pro Street Camaro. Its a pro mod frame just with a shorter wheelbase. In my opinion its much easier to scratchbuild the frame instead of working off a kit frame. To the best of my knowledge there isn't an accurate pro mod frame out there anyways, so you'll still have to do a fair amount of mods and sratchbuilding. You might have already been provided with this link but I really can't think of a better site for reference pics... http://vpracecars.com/informationPage.asp?whichOne=3 Hope this helps some...

Very impressive work! What did you use for the "flex boots". I've been working on a scratchbuilt rack and pinion and have been stumped on what to use for the flex boots.

Most hobby shops should have a decent selection of styrene, if not most online stores such as Tower Hobbies carry it. I recommend picking up all different shapes and sizes, trust me you'll find uses :wink: Most roll cages in real life are built with 1 5/8" tubing. That makes 1/16" the closest and most accurate size. At first glance it may seem skinny but once the cage takes shape its perfect. For support bars such as "x" braces, 3/64" and lower are the most accurate. Hope that helps!

Few options.. -Upload the pic onto photobucket... click edit and you can resize it down to 100x75. You can also use image shack.. no account is needed. -Right click on the pic click "save picture as". Open up a photo editing program and resize it there. When you make a picture smaller it can get a little blurry... you can play around with it in a photo editing program.

Here's an update. I got all the mods on the tank sqaured away. I added a bottom to it, which proved to be harder than I had thought because of the shape I needed. I also "fattened" a few spots, compare it to the original mockup and you'll see a slight difference. Just needs some sanding now. Here's the widened rear fender. I kept the pointed tip on it..still need to trim the bottom of it. I added the handle bars from the Crusader kit, really not too sure on them. From one angle they look killer but from another they look bad. I'm making a set of drag bars for it... I'll compare then. The seat is in question too. Its getting there... never thought I take this long on something with 2 wheels

Yes the wheels and tires are from the diecast bike also. They are a smaller diameter than the ones in the kit, but the rear tire is much wider.

Well this is kind of a bittersweet moment I guess. I was originally going for an old school chopper look but one final mock up before paint made me change my mind. I decided to go for a rather modern look, something Paul Jr. from OCC would probably build. So I chopped off the head stock and started cutting. I used aluminum tubing for a new headstock. I arched the backbone of the frame a bit to flow with the tank better. The tank is off the same diecast bike I got the springer from. I will be making some minor mods to it as well as adding a bottom to it. I won't be using the sissy bar on it anymore, definitely will find a place on my next chopper.

Copy the third set with "IMG" tags, simply copy and paste it here.

Well fortunetly I can dump that springer... I found a new one! So I don't keep double posting this you can follow the WIP here

Thanks guys! Here is the new springer I was talking about... Its off a very cool diecast bike... almost didn't want to take it off! I will most likely chrome the entire springer. I'm going to do some sanding today and hopefully I will have some paint on it later on. The color will be Turn Signal Amber Metallic... something a little different I think. There will be some pin striping as well.

Just when I think I have enough projects I start another! I'll be aiming for an old school look with a few modern touches on this one. -Ignore this springer for now... I was using it for mockup. I found a much better springer for it which I'll show later. -I scratchbuilt a sissy bar from 1/16" brass. I'm using small nuts and bolts to attach it to the frame. Its a little more fatter than the average sissy bar!

Well here is a quick pic of my current chopper. There won't be much in the way of custom work. I'm adding a sissy bar and some custom graphics. I had no luck finding the springers everyone else is using but I came across one on another diecast. It still needs some work to get it right.

Very cool so far! I really like the colors you're using 8)

Thanks! Irvin the Nova is still kicking! I've been hitting some road blocks with it, this is just something to keep my mind off it for a little while. Eventually it'll get finished!