HELP!!!

[bandit.93]

Hey, I really need some help. Every time I use the testors spray paint in the little can, it bubbles up and sometimes ruins the body of the model. Is there something im doing wrong or is it just a flaw with the spray. I usually use krylon fusion spray paint but there isnt alot of colors to choose from.Any help would be appreciated.

[Phil Patterson]

I used to have that problem on occasion, but not in awhile.

One thing I do is heat up the can with hot tap water, shaking the can in my hand then re-immersing it until the can no longer feels cold. This helps you get a finer spray due to more pressure and thinner paint. You don't need to get the can real hot and it's safer if you don't.

The other thing is just to mist the coats on, not too thick, until the last coat. I've always suspected part of the problem was getting too much on at once, before all the propellant can gas out. A 3rd option may be just to carefully spray the paint out of the can into a canister, then use an air brush to apply it.

Also, I leave 14 to 20 minutes between coats to allow the previous coat to tack up and gas out some before you hit it with more paint.

Edited September 29, 2007 by Phil Patterson

[RJWood]

Are you using a primer coat? or just the testors on bare plastic?

Its a good idea to get a smooth coat of primer, then shoot the color.

hope this helps.

Ron.

[plasticgas]

You should always wash all parts to be painted with mild dishwashing soap and use an old, soft toothbrush to get into all of the nooks and crannys. This will get rid of any left over mold release agent left over from the factory when the popped the part out of the mold. Failing to do this can cause the results you're having. Use a soft lint free towel or shammy to dry the parts. Avoid touching the parts with your fingers as the oils from your fingers can cause issues too.

Next, old paint or paint that is not well mixed cause poor results. Avoid paints that are on sale due to excessive shelf time at the store. Always mix (shake) your paint very well.

As stated earlier, warming the can will help the paint to better atomize as it leaves the nozzle. Fill a bowl with quite warm water, not hot (remember, this stuff is under pressure and can explode if too hot), and stand the can upright in the bowl. You do not want water to get near the nozzle area if you can avoid it. If this does happen, you can dry it with a towel before you shoot. Let the can sit in the water for 5 minutes or so. This raises the temp of the contents of the can which in turn raises the presure in the can. Also, warm paint flows better then cold paint. Primer can be done the same as paint when it comes to all of this and the use of primer will give the paint more tooth to grab onto so you will achieve better results.

When shooting paint, I usually shoot a couple of very light mist coats at first. You just want to tint the parts with the paint. Again, this gives the following coats something to grab onto. The following coats should always be light. Remember, it's a lot easier to add more paint then it is to remove it!

Try to shoot when the humidity is low and the temps are in the 70's or 80's if possible. Too cold and the paint will not level out on the surface before it sets up. Too hot and it takes so long to dry that airborn dust and stuff can be picked up due to longer drying times.

Lastly, a polishing kit can help really bring out the shine in the final coat of paint.

Edited September 29, 2007 by plasticgas

[Jeff Johnston]

I agree with Phil. Are you usiug Testors modal Master or standard Enamels ? The reason I ask is that those are hard to paint with. Some guys get great results with them, but usually through an airbrush. I have found that while they are "hobby paints", testors enamels are just really hard to paint. They are even harder to get a gloss Testors Enamel paint job out of a can. You are probably not doing anything wrong. As long as you've washed the body (with soap and water) and given it a coat of primer..those 2 pieces are key.

Try this...try laquer.

What brought me to the next level of painting was discovering Plasti-kote Laquer, right from the auto parts store. Get a can of primer (same brand), the color can, and a can of the Plastikote T-5 Clear. Prime it using several light coats. Once its covered completely, smooth the primer out using 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper. Then spray the color using the same technique. Light coats until its covered. You'll see it dries dull and fast. Once the color coat completely covers the car, let it dry and spray a couple coats of the T-5 clear. It't won't look glosst until the clear coat is applied.

You'll love it...

The only issue with laquer is this; If you spray it on too heavy, you can burn the plastic (crazing). It's a hery "hot" paint. Duplicolor is even hotter, which is why I never use it anymore.

Also, laquer paint stinks (pew - wee). Paint using a respirator - gas mask.

You can do the same thing using Tamiya or testors spray laquer. I don't use either much, because you can get a lot mroe paint for the same money using plastikote. However, the same techique applies EXCEPT with Tamiya, I hear you have to spray the clear coat within 30 minutes of the last color coar...or wait a month.

Using laquers is what took me to the next level of painting.