Jeff Johnston

testing this.

Glad I saw this. I was considering getting a bottle. I buy from Scalefinishes because I have received top notch customer service and very reasonable delivery times. I ordered Ford glacier blue paint once. When I got it, the color wasn't what I expected, and totally my fault. I got what I ordered. I asked what the correct color would be for what I was looking for, and not only did he tell me, but he sent me a bottle at no charge. Again...I ordered the wrong color. Totally my fault and he still sent me the right color (the one I should have ordered) at no charge. He earned my business for life with that.

This one. This is 22 year old me... with my 72 Corvette. I won't get into why I sold it, but suffice to say it had something to do with my wanting a brand new 1991 MR2 turbo...which was also cool... but.... Sure wish i still had this one.

Literally my favorite car in my favorite color... I'd still be crying if I had that an sold it. My uncle had this exact car and it was the 1st time I ever went over a hundred.... I was 12 or so I guess. I have coveted this car ever since. He sold his too. I'm not sure he regrets it, given the plethora of cool cars he has had since. But for me...this is the one. This is my #1.... This is my lottery car.

I agree with Wayne as the cloth that you use to polish can cause the scratches. The best that i have found is a really old cotton t shirt. Interestingly what is even better are those shoe buffers that they used to put in Hotel rooms. I haven;t found anything better but good luck finding them anymore.

Same here on my 2006 Mustang GT. I went on Saturday to do the drivers and they forgot to order the parts. So now I have to go back twice as well. My wife won't even ride in it until its fixed...

I haven't used it in years but I always applied with a soft wide brush. It is self leveling so you brush it on, sit the body on a paper towel, and do not touch it until its totally dry. It comes out OK. I never tried to polish it back then, but I liked to cover the molded in color models with future. It looked almost as good as paint back then when put on color molded plastic. If you put it on a white car it will definitely yellow over time, and not a lot of time either (a couple years). It definitely is a quick and dirty way to get a clear coat.

yeah I see that too. Not really noticeable on the shelf as it is when its all zoomed up, which is probably why I never noticed it..

It's model master enamel systems...only it says gloss lacquer. I'm thinking it must be enamel. It already looks yellowed in the bottle, but the model is black so I think it'll be OK.

I switched too. I love that I can paint it any color. Go light though because the paint can pool on it and make it look ugly if you spray too heavy. Spray light coats. It doesn't take much to cover it. This was before - while I was applying it. Regular white embossing powder. And after I primed and painted it. I have never not primered it, but I am sure it would be fine without primer.

I recently tried Don Yost's method of painting using the good ole old Testors enamel small bottle paint, and cheap Wal-Mart lacquer thinner... I just got probably the smoothest and shiniest paint jobs I ever did (at least before polishing). I think I can hear Don saying "See I told you so" ! Anyway, this is a clear coat question. While this is nice and shiny, I do want to clear it. I bought a bottle of Testors clear. The label says Testors Model Master Custom Enamel System, but the name is gloss lacquer. Did I buy the correct clear ? Is this clear enamel but just named "gloss lacquer" ? I don't want to hit my nice enamel paint job with lacquer and ruin it. JJ

IMHO the most beautiful woman god ever put on this earth...I had her poster(s) as a teenager and my mother hated them haha I never dug the notchback Mustang !!. That was very glorified Pinto-ish. The Fastback I always liked. I guess they didn't really call it a fact back but it's a mustang sooo......

Other on line sources have them for standard price. 20-25 bucks plus shipping. For whatever reason Amazon kit prices are usually really high (all kits). Ebay has 2 under 20 bucks right now. Model round up has them priced at regular pricing.

You would be happy using Tamiya TS-19 spray. I've used it to get a similar color on several cars. Its my go to paint for something close to that color. I always use a white primer under this color. Tamiya lacquer goes on flat so you'll want to also do a clear coat. My preference is Testors Wet Look clear lacquer, but there are just as many who like the Tamiya TS clear.

For me sanding starts as soon as I break the kit out of the box. I like to sand the whole body and hood to see all the sink marks, mold lines or other imperfections. I use maybe 800 grit. If there are any sink marks that I can't sand smooth, I fill it with putty, and some more sanding until its all smooth. Then I primer the car, and once its dry, sand some more. Only this time I'm sanding the primer with 3200 grit sanding pad. The goal is to make the primer coat smooth, You may have to spray a second coat of primer and sand it smooth as well. Once the primer is nice and smooth, you color paint. Your color coat should be smooth with no orange peel look. If you have orange peel, sand it smooth and give it another coat of color. Understand that if your primer coat isn't smooth, your color coat won't be. If your color coat isn't smooth, your clear coat won't be. I usually take 4000 grit sanding pad to level out the color coat. If its smooth with your color coat the 1st time, no need to sand it. Once you have a smooth color coat you can clear it. With the clear I usually do 2 coats, and wet sand with 4000 grit in between. After the final clear I start with 4000 and then with 6000, and then 8000 and finally 12000 grit. You will see that once you get into the 6000 the shine starts to be seen. The higher the number, the shinier it will get. Also once you start sanding with the 3600 or 4000 grit, it will dull your clear...not to worry, keep moving up through the grits and you'll see it will start to shine up. Final is the polishing. There are model polishes out there (novus and "the treatment") but standard car polishes work well too. I use maguires #2 polish first, and then Maguires carnuba wax. Hope this helps.

Bill that is an interesting story.. I never knew anything about the company - I only knew that Iiked the body kit. Sounds like a slimy group. I'm glad I didn't get a wild hair and try to build one ! LOL

I always liked this. You start with a 914 so its more of a body kit but I;d sure love to own one. Some have fit a Chevy small block in here....

As everyone else said, the 53 Ford is a spectacular kit. One of the best kits of its time. I've built 2 and I usually don't build anything older than 1965. Here is mine with some period photoshopping.

Same here. I enjoy Jay's show a lot. There are a few more I like such as Wheeler Dealers, Chasing Classic Cars and that one where they re-do a car in the owners garage, but the rest are all phony drama.

I want my magazine to be delivered to my door, in a foam case, with a metal latch, wrapped in bubble wrap. I mean seriously, how hard can that be ?

There was a 67 XL 500 with the fastback style roof and the convertible, and you are correct. they cost a small fortune. Both AMT. Kevin Lutz at Missing link does a fantastic resin trans kit of the 67. R&R resin, when Ray Parsons was alive, did a 67. Fastback and wagon. Not sure (or can't remember) if anyone is casting the R&R stuff. It was always a little rough in quality but accurate. JJ

I usually get through half my beer at least Tom HAHA And you sere right.. I remember when I could buy an 8 ounce bottle of coke. Then it was 12 ounces. Not you can't buy a bottle of coke that's less that 20 ounces.

SO nice both of them ! I love Ferrari's too. I've been trying to score a Hasegawa 348 on Ebay but always get outbid.

So nice ! Nice and ratty !