fseva Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 How do you install clear plastic window material (glass) in windshields and backlights where either no window glass was provided (aftermarket resin bodies) or due to having chopped the top of a injection molded kit, the included window glass can no longer be used. I know it's obviously possible to glue clear window material to the inside of the body, but I'd like to know if there are any bulletproof techniques so that they look like they are inside the frames? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) Fit everything VERY carefully. Tape or otherwise jig your "glass" in position. Use one of the PVA glues like this. Run a very small bead in enough areas to securely hold the "glass". The stuff dries entirely clear (you can use it for instrument faces, too) and cleans off with water, so no fingerprint worries like with epoxy, CAA, or styrene cement, but work carefully anyway. Give it plenty of time to dry thoroughly, because it has ZERO strength wet. Edited May 30, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fseva Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 Thanks Ace! I have Canopy Glue, but lately, for normal window installations, I've been successfully using "foam-safe" CA and Insta-Set activator. Please, anyone who has done this, please provide some recommendations about measuring, cutting and setting the glass so that it looks like it's in the frames rather than tacked on to the back side... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Frank, years ago when building my Chrysler Turbine Car, I did a mini tutorial on making your own glass out of "clear stencil sheet" and using 5 min epoxy. If you click here, and start with picture #83, you'll see how I did this. Also clicking here, and looking at pics 140-143, you can see the end results after the glass is installed. In fact in '09, I wrote an entire article for MCM on making glass and such, but I can't remember the month as the PDF file I have is not on my laptop here. Anyone else out there might be able to refresh my memory? Hope this helps and if you've got any more questions, drop me a line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Mr. Obsessive knows. If he says something works, it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fseva Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 I still haven't heard anything that I didn't already know. Bill's technique doesn't look bulletproof to me (gaps around the upper part of the window), and it still shows only the old way - attaching the glass behind the frame (therefore, the need for round plastic rods to help hold it in place). So, I guess I'll leave this topic open for a while longer, and see if someone comes up with something new that would eliminate the look of being held in place from behind. I'm hoping that when I'm ready to tackle a chopped body, I'll be ready to install my glass so that it'll look as good as kit glass! BTW, thanks for your effort, Bill! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 (edited) Frank, you're going to have to create some kind of "border" or channel that's very close to the window frame to achieve the look you want. You'd still need to use the type of plastic I used, but if the glass has compound curves such as those found on late '50's/early '60's cars, you'd have to most likely vacuform it. You're trying to get the glass as flush as possible to the surface, and I can tell you, you can be in for some rather frustrating work! I did this one time on a Ferrari build pictured below, and it was not without trying several times to get the rear glass particularly to appear correctly. This is Sterling Moss's '61 Ferrari as I saw it restored in the late '90's. The rear window was nearly flush with the body and that's the look I wanted for this build. While not absolutely perfect, it was MUCH better than the kit glass which had that tunneled look that you're trying to get away from. To get the glass to "stay" you'd need super glue or some very good patience holding the glass in place with 5 min. epoxy till it fully sets. Edit: I want to say that Moebius is doing just as you've described with their new kits. I've seen up close and personal the new '65 Plymouth Satellite, and its glass is 'bout flush with the body. Moebius will have you mount the glass on the outside while you would BMF and detail paint the weatherstripping and frame. Hopefully the glass won't be terribly distorted------one of my biggest pet peeves with model kits with most manufacturers. Edited May 31, 2015 by MrObsessive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Barrow Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 (edited) Over on the TRAK board Steve Boutte showed how to carve a recess inside the body to fit flat plastic sheet "glass" on a custom 49 Mercury. You might have to sign up for the board to view it, but it's worth it, it's a great thread. He might have posted it here, too (user SBK on here) but I couldn't find it. http://trakinscale.proboards.com/post/154041/thread Edited May 31, 2015 by Brett Barrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fseva Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 Over on the TRAK board Steve Boutte showed how to carve a recess inside the body to fit flat sheet glass on a custom 49 Mercury. You might have to sign up for the board to view it, but it's worth it, it's a great thread. He might have posted it here, too (user SBK on here) but I couldn't find it. I would like to read that, but one thing I would still have to get a handle on is cutting the glass to fit the opening... there's no way windows are ever going to be straight-sided polygons... you're still going to have to follow the "shape" of the window, and keep the overlap to a minimum... on glass, that could be very difficult, or very time-consuming... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fseva Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 (edited) You're trying to get the glass as flush as possible to the surface, and I can tell you, you can be in for some rather frustrating work! I did this one time on a Ferrari build pictured below, and it was not without trying several times to get the rear glass particularly to appear correctly. This is Sterling Moss's '61 Ferrari as I saw it restored in the late '90's. The rear window was nearly flush with the body and that's the look I wanted for this build. While not absolutely perfect, it was MUCH better than the kit glass which had that tunneled look that you're trying to get away from. To get the glass to "stay" you'd need super glue or some very good patience holding the glass in place with 5 min. epoxy till it fully sets. I can't say for sure that's exactly what I was thinking - I'm not as concerned with getting the window as close as possible to being dropped in from outside - I just want to get away from the "glued to the back of the opening" look that would naturally occur when you... glue a clear piece of flat plastic onto the back of the windshield's frame... This is the main hurdle I have in taking on a resin body like the Jimmy Flintstone 32 chopped top replacement for the Revell 5-window Ford. The original kit offers a nice chrome framed support that makes it look like it's let-into the frame. Replace the body and you lose all that... BTW, I would be willing to use my foam-safe CA by Bob Smith Inds and the recommended activator, which is what I've been using lately to install glass... without fogging... Edited May 31, 2015 by fseva Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Barrow Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 I would like to read that, but one thing I would still have to get a handle on is cutting the glass to fit the opening... there's no way windows are ever going to be straight-sided polygons... you're still going to have to follow the "shape" of the window, and keep the overlap to a minimum... on glass, that could be very difficult, or very time-consuming... He used clear plastic, I didn't mean to imply he used actual glass. Sign up for the TRAK board, that thread alone is worth the price of admission (nothing!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Barrow Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 I see now that that link wouldn't work even with a login, so I'll copy it here, hope Steve doesn't mind. Thanks, guys. John, for carving the recess for window openings, my favorite blade is the #16 shape. This is an X-acto blade, but Excel makes a similarly shaped one. Sometimes I have touble being able to get inside the body at a decent angle, so I've tried different things like breaking off a piece of #11 blade & putting it in the handle sideways (looks like a "T") Other times, I've broken off the tip of a #11 blade & used the tip to scrape away the plastic. I've never tried a small chisel tip, but that may work well, too. I mark off where I will cut by scribing around the opening with a pair of dividers, one needle following the opening & the other scribing a line. I use this line as a guide & slowly start sraping away the plastic. It gets a bit easier oonce you have a decent ledge established. But, the whole process I use is basically scraping away the plastic. Steve Boutte Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fseva Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 I see now that that link wouldn't work even with a login, so I'll copy it here, hope Steve doesn't mind. Wow - I see now that with patience, it would be possible to set glass "into" a frame! Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Wow - I see now that with patience, it would be possible to set glass "into" a frame! Thanks for the info! Ah Grasshopper...with patience, is possible to do damm well anything... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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