rust all rust set

[Bretts65]

I bought the two part rusting system which consist of the iron base paint and the rusting formula and i have tried it twice and have got nothing out of this stuff except for a slight brown haze. I have seen a couple guys use it one here and they get awesome results is there something im missing or is there a trick to this any help would be great

[djway3474]

I used the Rustall stuff once. I had to apply over and over and over and....... for about 4 days to make it look rusty. I have not tried the other two part stuff.

DJ

[Zoom Zoom]

I think I heard of people putting a wet paper towel over the stuff to let sit for awhile, that helps the iron in the rust set really rust.

[VW Dave]

All I've used is the 2-part system, and my results have been very good. My first guess was that the base paint wasn't shaken or mixed thoroughly enough, but I'm thinking now that the mistake may have been the one that I also made early on: the base paint was probably not allowed enough time to fully dry before application of the top solution.

If the base paint isn't fully dry, the top solution will essentially wash it away like thinner.

Bretts65 - please fill us in with the steps you followed with the product, and that may yield the answer to your dilemma.

Edited December 11, 2008 by VW Dave

[kjadud0667]

heres a pic of what i use and how it turns out . its the sophisticated finishes

[Bretts65]

Sophisticated is what I used the first time i applied the base lightly on a peice of plastic with no paint and then applied the rusting solution and i got a little haze then I tried applying a thicker base with 2 coats and got the same thing. Now that i have read on it a little i tried putting two coats on my model and let it dry for a full 24 hrs I just applied the rusting solution and i will keep you guys up to date otherwise im going to have to try my impatience on painting the rust using some of the pros methods.

[Bretts65]

Yeah I would have to say I have had it with this stuff i have put 3 coats on let it dry for 48 hours and then apply the top solution and it does nothing i just dont have the patience for painting rust on a model plus this stuff when it works right it looks good if anyone has a better more efficient idea let me know

[VW Dave]

Please don't give up! When it works, that stuff is the most efficient way to make rust IMO.

Even though they call it 'Instant Rust,' it really isn't instant. I suggest reapplying the top solution, and if that doesn't work you might have a bad bottle of base paint(that happened to me one time).

Feel free to email me directly, and I'll do whatever I can to help you get it sorted: plasticman1432@gmail.com

[lonewolf01]

watch this video, it explains it quite well.

[rocketrider]

First off, hello to all, this will be my first post

This is how I create rust

Purchase a box of SOS pads, (the ones without the soap). Get 1 or 2 of them wet and put them in on old soup can. Let them sit for several days to a week (I never timed mine) Eventually most of the pads will turn to a rust powder.

Grab your model, and on a pallet,, mix up some rust and flat black. I first paint the model all over with the rust color, then go over it with a mixture of the rust and black for darker areas.

While the paint is wet sprinkle on some of the rust powder, making sure not to have any of the un-rusted particles in with it.

I had to go over mine a couple of times in some areas to get it just right, even painting over some areas to tone some down.

For larger areas or clumped rust you can dab on some CA, and apply some baking soda, then go over it with the above process.

And the cool thing... it's real rust.

Glen

The areas rusted through is done by carefully grinding the inside of the model with a dremel and a cutting bit. Then poking it through with an xacto blade.

[Ryan Quantz]

I use only artists Chalk Pastels. I either mix a wash with water, or with bottles flat clearcoat, it depends on the desired texture and sheen. For certain areas, I dab the "rusty" mix onto spots of wet clearcoat. I follow this with mists of Dullcote and rubbing with jewelry polishing cloths to get different sheens and whatnot. This is the results.

[pibull63]

there are several ways to make rust. one is to take steel wool #oooo, put it in a glass jar, (mason), fill the jar with vinegar. leave the lid loose, as this mixture will give off gas as it rots the steel wool. when it is evaporated, youcan brush it on anything and it will give a rusty haze. this works good for diaramas, because it gives wood a weathered look. another is a product called ROTTENSTONE. it makes anything look old and weathered. i used it years ago on my railroad with excellent results. i got it at a craft store, i believe. its been years since i have used it, but i believe it is still available

[buffalobill]

there are several ways to make rust. one is to take steel wool #oooo, put it in a glass jar, (mason), fill the jar with vinegar. leave the lid loose, as this mixture will give off gas as it rots the steel wool. when it is evaporated, youcan brush it on anything and it will give a rusty haze. this works good for diaramas, because it gives wood a weathered look. another is a product called ROTTENSTONE. it makes anything look old and weathered. i used it years ago on my railroad with excellent results. i got it at a craft store, i believe. its been years since i have used it, but i believe it is still available

Rottenstone is still available from Rocklers, Woodcraft, and other franchised woodworking retail stores, and also from their online stores. Also try Pumice that's made by the same makers of Rottenstone.

A trick I discovered quite by accident is to apply RustAll over a previously Dullcoated paint job. The alcohol in the Rust All will create a heavily oxidized look to the paint job (actually to the Dullcoat on top of the underlying colors). Many 1:1 cars have issues w/ top surfaces oxidizing badly, esp those w/ clear-coated OEM finishes, and this technique works well for replicating that look. I've had similar results using 70% isopropyl alcohol instead of RustAll - the rust colored tint will be absent, and only an oxidized finish will be achieved w/ the alcohol. Do not use 93% isopropyl alcohol, as it will attack the underlying paint color(s). To reverse the process, or to tame down the amount of oxidation, either spray or brush on an acrylic clear (a flat or satin seems to work best). . .

re: using RustAll - make sure it's completely stirred up, esp if you've had it for awhile. You'll probably use lots more of the Rust component of the 4 part RustAll system, and it's available in separate (& much larger) jars. Be patient w/ RustAll, as it sometimes takes quite a few 'quick & dirty' applications w/ a worn out set of brushes for the rust effect to materialize. I have had good results using brown, rust, gray, & black washes of Floquil paints in conjunction w/ RustAll - sometimes in between coats of RustAll.

Have some photos close at hand of a rusted vehicle similar to the model being rusted. Different cars & trucks rust in their own unique places on their body, trim, & chassis. Also, cars kept near salt water rust out totally different than those in the Rust Belt do.

[olarge1]

I have found that with the sophisticated finishes, you need to let the base coat dry compleately, then just after applying the top coat place the part in a zip lock bag and close. Place under a lamp to let dry, this creates condention in the bag and helps the rusting process.

Here is a break drum that I did this way, hope this helps it is what has worked for me!