House of Kolor

[fseva]

HoK is now available in 4oz bottles...

http://www.tcpglobal.com/Automotive-Paint/House-of-Kolor-Airbrush-Colors-Ready-to-Spray/

This is pre-mixed ready-to-airbrush, which would be perfect for me. Is there anything special I should know about HoK before I place an order?

[DaveM]

Use a good respirator and be careful with the stuff. It is not hobby paint! This is the same stuff that you see the guys in "Space suits" shooting in the big commercial spray booths. Other than that, it looks soooooooo good on the model!

[fseva]

Use a good respirator and be careful with the stuff. It is not hobby paint! This is the same stuff that you see the guys in "Space suits" shooting in the big commercial spray booths. Other than that, it looks soooooooo good on the model!

Thanks Dave... would it be in the same category as automotive lacquers and enamels, like are sold by MCW and Scale Finishes?

Edited April 9, 2015 by fseva

[Mike Chernecki]

Thanks Dave... would it be in the same category as automotive lacquers and enamels, like are sold by MCW and Scale Finishes?

HOK is in a category above MCW and Scale Finishes. If you are not doing a custom kandy or pearl paint, then HOK is over kill. I use Scale Finishes exclusively for my paint and their quality is outstanding. I do have HOK for those special jobs.

It should be noted that HOK requires one of their basecoats to be applied properly and get the color you expect. Most of the shimrin pearls go over white, while their kandies go over silver or gold, or one of thier metalics. Get the metallic bases in the finer flake otherwise it will look like heavy metalflake in scale. Nice thing about HOK universal bases is that you can thin them with either lacquer thinner or urethane reducer depending on what you are using overall on the paint job.

Edited April 9, 2015 by Mike Chernecki

[Ace-Garageguy]

We routinely use HOK colors for our 1:1 cars. The "solvent safe" bottles keep the material usable for about a year. I have one bottle on the shelf at the shop that we shot color-test panels from for a client, and it's been sealed tightly. It's now as thick as bondo.

Because it's a single-component product (no catalyst in the colored base) it WILL come back when appropriately reduced.

Remember, these colors ARE basecoats and REQUIRE a cleat topcoat.

The "Technical Data Sheets" are available online. Read 'em. EXAMPLE: http://www.tcpglobal.com/hokpaint/techsheets/PBC.pdf

IF YOU SPRAY ANY OF THIS STUFF, WEAR A RESPIRATOR. A "PAINT MASK" IS NOT SUFFICIENT PROTECTION.

Edited April 9, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[fseva]

Thanks, Mike & Bill! I have used both MCW and Scale Finishes, and have always had a problem with their metallics turning "frosty" on me. I was looking for something that was a bit easier, but I can see now that HoK might be even more difficult. So, I think I'll have to pass.

[my80malibu]

I had heard that the 4 oz bottles were originally a marketing gimmick. To give first time users a way to test the product. The paint has been very Popular, and is easy to use, in My personal experience. Now that the Shimrin line has been introduced, its good to see the small bottles returning. John Kosmoski the inventor of HOK was asked about the small quantity bottles, at a paint seminar that I attended in early October 2014, at the time John said he would ask Valspar to bring them back. It's nice to be able to buy a Cool color of paint, without the expense of buying a whole quart can.

[10thumbs]

As I understand, a dealer will break down the larger quantities if he sees a market for the smaller orders. There's an airbrush specialist or two in Europe that sells small bottles, (I think 4oz.) and he has good business with the H of K original paint. I'm sure in the US there are lots of dealers doing the same.

The stuff is fantastic and very easy to use, and it's a thrill to mix about any color you've ever seen and would like to re-produce. The paint dries very quickly and the following coats can be, even should be applied within 10 to 15 minutes. Later, the clear coats are a breeze too.

Lots of guys cringe at the price, but a lot of plastic can be painted with 4oz.!

[fseva]

The stuff is fantastic and very easy to use, and it's a thrill to mix about any color you've ever seen and would like to re-produce. The paint dries very quickly and the following coats can be, even should be applied within 10 to 15 minutes. Later, the clear coats are a breeze too.

Speaking of clear coats, does Valspar sell an HoK-specific product? Does it come premixed and ready to airbrush?

[Ace-Garageguy]

Speaking of clear coats, does Valspar sell an HoK-specific product? Does it come premixed and ready to airbrush?

If I remember correctly, HOK basecoats can be reduced with lacquer thinner and topcoated with lacquer clear, or reduced with acrylic urethane reducer, and topcoated with urethane clear.

I don't have any idea what the "airbrush-ready" pre-reduced colors in the little bottles are cut (reduced, or "thinned") with. You might want to check into that, as HOK recommends that you don't use a lacquer clear over bases reduced with urethane reducers and vice versa.

[10thumbs]

I don't have any idea what the "airbrush-ready" pre-reduced colors in the little bottles are cut (reduced, or "thinned") with. You might want to check into that, as HOK recommends that you don't use a lacquer clear over bases reduced with urethane reducers and vice versa.

That's a good point. All of the "airbrush ready" small quantities I've bought needed reducing to spray with a brush. Some, especially the base coats, were in a small can and were really thick (too long in the small can??, which show original H of K label), others were thinner, but still needed to be thinned. The first batch I received was from a renowned custom paint shop here in Germany. The rest was from an airbrush online supplier.

The Kandy Konzentrates need a boatload of thinner anyway so I don't know if the thickness is right or not. Can't say. I do know a small bottle will go a long way.

I only use the 1 component clear as I see no necessity for a 2 component clear for a plastic model.

Personally, I really like working with the lacquers from HofK and the results make them in my opinion a no-brainer. I actually feel that I know how to use an airbrush in the meantime!

[fseva]

I only use the 1 component clear as I see no necessity for a 2 component clear for a plastic model.

Can I ask which 1-component clear you use?

[fseva]

OK - I have another question... or 2... A needle/nozzle of 1.3-1.5mm is recommended with HoK... Since most airbrushers don't have such equipment (I'm lucky that I have a Badger Crescendo with a 1.5mm setup), what size do you guys who airbrush HoK use? And if it's not 1.3-1.5mm, how do you get it to atomize correctly (please remember that we're talking about the 4oz bottles, which are pre-thinned at the factory...) Do you have to use HoK reducer?

Edited April 12, 2015 by fseva

[Mike Chernecki]

I have two Iwata airbrushes, one with .3 the other with .5 and have no problems. But I buy the 2oz and 4oz HOK bottles unthinned and buy a quart of reducer and thin it out myself. You get so much more paint for the money doing it that way and you can control how thin you want to go.

[10thumbs]

I agree with Mike. I don't know what sizes are used for real cars, but a model needs smaller jets.

I use 0.5mm for the best results, with lots of line pressure, and the paint fairly thin. Actually I have best results when the paint is real thin.

Use the H of K reducer, the one that's fast drying. I don't have th number at hand. Depending on the consistency of the paint I have at hand, I use at least 1:1, then start from there. Sometimes 2 parts thinner and 1 part paint are needed. You'll see what's best as soon as you hit the go button. When it's too thick, I just pour it back into the bottle I mixed it in, add more reducer, run cleaner through the airbrush and get back at it. Experts will probably cringe at my shade-tree technique, but as soon as I became less afraid of an airbrush the easier it became. Again, my experience is the thinner the paint, with an 0.5mm nozzle, the better the job. But that's just me.

As far as I know, there is only 1component, or the urethane 2 component clear. The 1 component is to be thinned out just like the other stuff, maybe even a tad more, with the same reducer you used before. You can also clear the primer or base coat! Yep! Good huh? Fills up fine sandpaper scratches fairly well.

Michael

[fseva]

I have two Iwata airbrushes, one with .3 the other with .5 and have no problems. But I buy the 2oz and 4oz HOK bottles unthinned and buy a quart of reducer and thin it out myself. You get so much more paint for the money doing it that way and you can control how thin you want to go.

Where do you get 2-4oz bottles that are not pre-thinned?

[fseva]

HoK is now available in 4oz bottles...

http://www.tcpglobal.com/Automotive-Paint/House-of-Kolor-Airbrush-Colors-Ready-to-Spray/

This is pre-mixed ready-to-airbrush, which would be perfect for me.

OK - here's another question... The HoK paints at TCP Global are all pre-thinned... They are probably pre-thinned for use by normal customers, ones who will be using the designated spray guns (1.3-1.5mm). Obviously, these would still need to be thinned/reduced in order to use them with a .5mm airbrush... correct?

[Mike Chernecki]

Where do you get 2-4oz bottles that are not pre-thinned?

I get mine at coast airbrush, just click the dropdown beside a color to get a selection of sizes. Eg http://www.coastairbrush.com/products.asp?cat=52 Edited April 13, 2015 by Mike Chernecki

[Mike Chernecki]

OK - here's another question... The HoK paints at TCP Global are all pre-thinned... They are probably pre-thinned for use by normal customers, ones who will be using the designated spray guns (1.3-1.5mm). Obviously, these would still need to be thinned/reduced in order to use them with a .5mm airbrush... correct?

Here is some informative videos. Look for the HOK videos Dr Cranky does a few on thinning and spraying HOK paints.

https://m.youtube.com/user/damncranky666

[jwrass]

Frank,

As far as safety go's I'm in the same camp as ACE. I also wear latex gloves as your cuticles have a high rate of chemical absorption due to the skin being very thin in that area.

I have a been 1:1 guy for some forty plus years. I have used all of their products and know much of the history of HOK very well. In 1981 I was a beta site tester for Jon and Dennis for their striping urethane product line when it was launched and it took a long time to perfect the product. The original product dried dead flat and had to be cleared (today you can apply it like One Shot or clear over it) the stuff had a tendency to separate or run if you got it just a little to wet with clear, in fact we found out that we had to put the first coat of clear on drier than a popcorn fart and progressively apply wetter coats to get it to work without any problems. enough! with that lets move on.

HOK has been sold in small qualities for over 25 years and the original co who packaged it was Black Gold and they packaged only the Lacquers. I know there was some heart burn there as permission was not granted to repackage, however it was resolved. Black Gold Still sells HOK. Enter the second players Coast Air Brush Owner Dave Monning and Craig Fraiser of Air Syndicate they started putting packages together in the 90s with Jon's Blessings and currently do. I saw recently that I think TCB Global is selling HOK.

There are things we do in the 1:1 world that I feel are not as critical for a model however I don't change my approach to prep and paint as I have all the materials. High end custom paint chemistry is a art form, I never cross mix product lines, Meaning: If I start with HOK I use their primers sealers thinners etc. Same approach as if I was using PPG. These paint systems are meant to be used as a system. If you cross product lines with a model and you have problems what's the worst that can happen? You throw it in the pond. You know what the cost of a redo of a $ 20,000 paint job? $ 20,000. you don't want to have to eat one of those.

I personally would stay away from the pre thinned paints as not all paints spray the same, reduce your own paint. Example: One color may spray fine at 1 to 1 ( one part paint, one part reducer) another color may be happiest at say 1.5 to 1 or any combination in between. There are other factors with regards to reduction but those really apply to the 1:1 world.

Any Kandy can easily be pushed through a .3 & .5 Kandy paint for the most part is clear and toner when reduced it's pretty thin.

When you start getting into mediums such as metallic"s and pearls you should start going with larger orifices.

Experimentation, practice, test panels and over all best practices rule!!!!!

Other than paying attention to recommended reduction Air brushing becomes a personal thing learned through trial and error.

In the booth I like to bring the color on slow and easy. On a complete I can easily spend 8 hours in the booth.

When I airbrush I tend to work with a lower air pressure than most and a thinner mixture. It works for me. Now the test for you is to find a baseline that works for you and adjust accordingly.

Ask any Professional Painter. Murphy's Law Is Always Lurking In the Corner

I hope this helps Frank! May the painting gods shine on you!!!

Peace, Jimmy "RASS"

[High octane]

I sometimes use Black Gold in rattle cans which is just repackaged HOK paints and they seem to work well for me, and also no matter what I use for a primer or clear coat.

[fseva]

Any Kandy can easily be pushed through a .3 & .5 Kandy paint for the most part is clear and toner when reduced it's pretty thin.

When you start getting into mediums such as metallic"s and pearls you should start going with larger orifices.

This was very helpful! Thanks!

[fseva]

I sometimes use Black Gold in rattle cans which is just repackaged HOK paints and they seem to work well for me, and also no matter what I use for a primer or clear coat.

Nick, does the same apply to HoK in a spray can? Will it still require a coat of clear, or can you simply polish it to get the shine? With Kandies, I am guessing you still need to start with white, silver or gold...

[High octane]

I've never used HOK in a "rattle can," only Black Gold. And I would not polish out any paint job unless it was a solid color. For all others I use a few clear coats, and then polish it out to get a real shine after letting the clear "gas out" for a couple of weeks.

[fseva]

I've never used HOK in a "rattle can," only Black Gold. And I would not polish out any paint job unless it was a solid color. For all others I use a few clear coats, and then polish it out to get a real shine after letting the clear "gas out" for a couple of weeks.

Didn't you say that Black Gold is just HoK repackaged in a spray can?

Edited April 14, 2015 by fseva