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allecb

Member Since 03 Dec 2010
Offline Last Active Jan 21 2014 02:56 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: please tell me i didnt ruin this permanently.

11 January 2014 - 08:53 AM

 

I would seal it with a light coat of that Pearl White rather than hitting it with Enamel Clear.  Because the Gun Metal is Lacquer again, and you're going to wind up with a serious paint reaction once that Gun Metal hits that Enamel Clear Coat.  If you want to use a clear coat to seal it, then paint more lacquer, you're going to need either the Testor Model Master Lacquer Clear or Testors One Coat Lacquer Clear.

 

If you had an airbrush you could get a jar of the Tamiya Gun Metal (X-10), that's in their acrylic line, and that could easily go over either the enamel clear, or lacquer paint without complications.

 

 

 

 

got it! i was gonna do the pearl white route, but i actually just found an old can of testors clear gloss lacquer overcoat. and just because i am short on money right now, would it be OK to use the blue 3m painters tape and then coat over it? or should i just honestly wait till i get that prestigious tamiya tape and coat over it?


In Topic: please tell me i didnt ruin this permanently.

10 January 2014 - 03:01 PM

I guess I am assuming that you are using Tamiya synthetic lacquers.  If this is true, then alcohol won't be real effective in removing the paint in my experience.  Brake fluid seems to work better for their rattle cans.  As to sealing the tape, a very light thin coat of paint along the seam is all you need.  You can use clear but I use the last coat of paint before the masking.  This way the colors match and will sand down more evenly.  I suggest it only as what works for  you.  Try both and see what happens on a spare part and what works best for you. 

 

Last, mixing up lacquers and enamels will lead to no good.  You can lay enamels over lacquers but not the other way around. The hotter solvent in lacquer will wreak havoc with enamels.  Personally, I very rarely mix the two on the same surface.  I have had them look great when I am done and then a month later, the surface cracks or goes all alligator skin on me.  Just because it looks ok at the end of painting doesn't mean it is going to stay that way.  Paints cure over long periods of time and may take months to truly reach a stable point.  During this time, they shrink a bit and if there is a difference in shrink rates, you can wind up with a mess. 

 

 

 

 

i just used regular tamiya lacquer paint. the rubbing alcohol melted the paint right off!!

 

enamels OVER lacquer is ok. got it. so ill be ok to spray this enamel clear coat over the tape then.


In Topic: please tell me i didnt ruin this permanently.

09 January 2014 - 02:47 PM

this site is always so helpful.

 

so what i did was i just got 91 percent alcohol and the bumper is sitting in a cup. im just going to start it over. i tried sanding it away, and that wasnt working. and i didnt have any polisher, but i didnt even bother because there were various indents and everything. 

 

i did notice the blue masking tape didnt leave residue when i used it...but it kind of reduced the shimmer/smoothness of the paint? maybe the paint was just still soft..tamiya tape or yellow 3M tape wont cause this, correct?  im asking because i saw that tamiya tape was sort of expensive..so obviously masking the whole model with tamiya tape would be pricey. so as someone stated..mask the more important parts with tamiya tape, then the bulk/non essential areas with 3m yellow tape or 3m blue masking tape?

 

and one more question..if i were to do the clear coat over the tape idea..would i need to just do one spray? AND if im using lacquer paint, but used enamel clear to create a sealant..would this be ok?


In Topic: please tell me i didnt ruin this permanently.

07 January 2014 - 05:50 PM

Ok, here is a very old trick.  In fact it may be the oldest trick in the book.  Lay down the lightest coat first.  Let is dry at least a couple of days or over night in a food dehydrator.  If you are going to use 3M tapes get the low tack stuff.  It is thinner.  Lay the tape down and use a toothpick(cocktail stick on the other side of the pond if you are so inclined) to burnish the tape down.  Use a new/sharp xacto blade to cut way the part you are not going to use.  Then spray it with a light coat of your base color.  Some will bleed under your tape but it is the same color so that is ok.  This seals the tape.  Let it dry and the put your color coat over the top.  Always use as light of coats as you can get away with.  Two or three light coats are better than one heavy coat of the same thickness.  Light coats will cure quicker than heavy coats. 

 

Oh, by the way to start over, Tamiya lacquers come off very nicely with brake fluid.  Lacquer thinner will remove silver from thumbnails! :lol:

 

 

 

lol thanks a lot for the trick. im going to use th at for the continuation of the model. but as far as trying NOT to start over on this bumper piece, what should i try to do? my main problem with starting over is is that i wouldnt have enough white OR pearl white to do the bumper correctly. which means another 20 dollars gone. i do however have enough to do some "clean ups"


In Topic: is sanding really that important?

29 December 2013 - 06:52 PM

wow this is great. i needed hands on experience to understand what was being said.

 

ok, so i just finished wet sanding my primer with 2k grit. at first, it was grainy cause of the primer..and now its silky smooth. i dont know if its needed or not, but im going to sand with 4k grit..then soap/rinse and dry..then primer it and let it sit for the night. after that i may just repeat the same process over again. then prime it one last time, followed by a 4k wetsand so its silky smooth, and then coat it with paint.

 

sounds like a good plan yall? 

 

and p.s. so im a little unclear about this. since in this specific case im using pearl white should i avoid sanding any of my paint until i clear coat? unless maybe i have debris fall on it?