Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Marc Weller

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Marc Weller

  1. Paint looks fantastic. What brand are you using?
  2. I know it's been awhile. I haven't bailed on this project, but I've made some major changes. The more I looked at that graphic the more I thought "fish eggs". I dunno. I like caviar on a cracker but not on a '55 Nomad. The solution (no pun intended) was a brake fluid bath and starting all over. I've been watching a ton of YouTube videos about Createx products and I have been wanting to go water based if, for no other reason, the health benefits. So here's my first attempt at a water based custom paint job. I used all Createx water based products. White Sealer Base, Pearlized White, Candy20 purple mixed with Balancing Clear, and finally, ULVS clear. I pretty much loved everything but the ULVS and I'll probably head back to 2K for my next project. I'm just going to be super careful about safety precautions. P.S. foiling this thing was too much work and I'm not done!!! Need to pick my next project with that in mind !!!
  3. Time to get back to this one. I found this stash of Predicta parts I scored at some swap meet 25 years ago, two complete Predictas minus bubble tops. I love the Predicta wheels and tires and I'll use them on future projects but the 1/24th scale Hemi is a perfect choice for my '36 and I'll use it now. I won't need to mess with ignition wires since they are concealed on this particular Hemi variant, a major bonus. Already fabbed motor mounts. No idea why that old Monogram tool has a notch in the firewall. I'm gonna go with a permanently attached hood and open sides so I'm not going to bother fixing it. Gonna need to figure out a way to provide clearance for the fan/pulley assembly. Probably going to grind the boss off of the front of the motor and notch the crossmember. I want to keep the front end as low as possible so I need to keep the existing crossmember.
  4. Which clear? it really sparkles !! The foil is awesome as well.
  5. This one is done. All kinds of fit issues in final assembly. Blame it on builder incompetence, it’s a great kit and the Flintstone body is terrific. I’ll take some good pictures later to post under glass.
  6. You might think about shooting some dullcoat then buffing it with one of those fabric softener sheets you throw in the dryer. I’ve had good luck with that technique. BTW that dash looks awesome.
  7. David was correct. The firewall relief was not adequate to clear the engine location. In fact, trying to use the stock Cadillac mounting points was a stupid idea which I remedied by fabricating new forward mounts and a new transmission mount bringing the engine forward to a more reasonable location The interior is going to be nearly invisible between the chop and the blue tinted glass so I didn't get too carried away. Just some detail painting and a shifter fabbed from some stainless tubing. The V butted windshields turned out way better than I expected. Ignore that shmutz on the passenger side. Just some lens cleaner I neglected to dry. Just need to finish the exhaust system, add shocks, mount wheels, and liberally dust the undercarraige and she'll be ready for the showcase.
  8. I haven’t been goofing off, just working very slowly! The Cad mill is done no thanks to the instruction sheet which has the exhaust manifolds reversed and neglects to show any distributor (the kit has a nice distributor BTW). I hope Cadillacs have the same firing order as SBCs or this thing is going to have a terrible misfire. Used the Molotow to detail paint the dash and Micro-Scale Krystal Klear for the gauge covers. I painted the seat with flat black enamel and then, after a week, burnished the surface with my finger tip after a trip to Popeyes. Yeah it’s gross but what a great technique. That’s all for now.
  9. Hahahaha ! I’ll be switching to acrylic since Pegasus just informed me that Model Master is no more ! I already used my last drop of Model Master dust and Tamiya buff is really close. I’ve never had a problem with the enamel failing to dry on tires but I’m shooting it very dry and the tire is spinning so very little paint is being applied. As for the Floquil I similarly have never had a problem. Floquil rust is semi transparent and it is absolutely perfect for “aging” white walls. I don’t know what I’m gonna do when I run out. They are already getting 18 bucks a bottle on eBay !! I love that picture Kurt posted. Tomorrow morning I’m going to Dullcoat the grille and do a fine stippling with rust. I kept blowing output seals on my M-22 until a transmission guy told me my driveshaft was too long !! I would have never figured that out on my own !!
  10. Thanks guys. Hoping to get more work done on it this week. Appreciate the comments.
  11. It's kind of subtle but I have a lot of time in weathering these wheels and tires. I used a chipping technique on the wheels that utilized a Testors rust base coat, a few dabs of white glue in the areas to be chipped, followed by Testors orange and, finally, Dullcoat. I used a wash of Tamiya flat black after painting the lug nuts, bearing caps (front) and axle ends (rear). The thin front white walls in front were created with a circle template and a gel pen. The rears are the inserts that come with the monogram tires. Each tire was mounted on my Dremel and, while spinning at low speed, dusted on the tread and sidewall surfaces with Testers dust enamel. The whitewalls were aged by airbrushing Floquil rust on the spinning tires . A lot of work but worth it. The bed was similarly chipped using the white glue technique utilized for the wheels. There are so many cool YouTube videos about weathering techniques. I spend hours watching these and trying them out at my bench. I Bare Metal Foiled the bed rails then applied Dullcoat. I used a white gel pen to letter the rear gate. Once this thing is done I'm going to load the bed with rusty flathead parts.
  12. Great question about bed floor. They are chromed on my 1:1 truck. I’ll probably go with BMF then dullcoat and maybe mist some rust enamel from my airbrush. I have a bit of work left on the firewall before painting. Thanks for looking!
  13. I had planned to use the stock inline six but when I looked in the box it was gone !!! That's because I used it for this So I decided since I have already raided the Cadillac kit for the front suspension I might as well use the engine as well. I even had a set of valve covers that had been plated by Chrome Tech 20 years ago!! I wanted to use to stock engine mounts which set the engine pretty far back .A little surgery on the firewall and I was in business. I painted the body with Testors orange and did some light weathering. Found a really cool Fred Cady nostalgic speed shop decal sheet which provided the signage. I wood grained the bed using artist oils and a technique that can be found at this address http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/woodgrainel_1.htm Check it out, first time I tried this and it turned out great!!
  14. Great suggestion David! I actually have those parts left over from a Galaxie ''48 Delivery build which I ended up swapping in a Studebaker with 8 deuces if you can imagine !!
  15. When you consider the fact that I have one of these parked in my garage, It’s about time I got this of the shelf and started rendering something in scale. When I bought this thing ten years ago I had plans of a top chop, front subframe with discs and ifs, LS motor, and a Tremac 6 speed. Fast forward to 2020 and all I have done is rebuild the M-22, throw on some Torque Thrusts, and have some signage added. I’m still running the stock 283 with no other upgrades than a set of headers and an Edelbrock carb. The paint job even dates back to the early 80’s. I’d still like to see it chopped and, since I’m shrinking anyway, it may become practical !!! Stance is everything in any hot rod. On early Chevy trucks the semielliptical front suspension really limits how low you can drop the front end. My ’51 has a Mor Drop front axle and it is anything but in the weeds. My model gets a subframe, in this case the front clip from the Revellogram ’59 Caddy which just happened to be the first kit I grabbed off my shelf. Since the Caddy kit lacks poseable front wheels, I fabbed some spindles from Evergreen and king pins from stainless tubing. I got started on the top chop before I realized I could let Jimmy Flintstone do all of the hard work so I snagged a resin body on Ebay. This is everything I’ve done so far held together with Elmer’s glue. I’m going for a beater vibe, weathered paint but minimal surface rust, tinted glass with a few period decals, using the inline six and stock trans. Stay tuned.
  16. I kept waiting for that geometric roof design to grow on me and it never happened. In fact it started to grate on me !!! so I sanded it off and started all over again. Did some fades on the horizontal roof beads, then decided to do some fish scales on the smooth forward part of the roof. How to create a fish scale mask? I had a bag of confetti that I bought years ago to make 1/16th scale injector blades. I glued a line of them along the edge of some thin sheet styrene and I had my mask. Using HOK purple acrylic lacquer. I'm gonna leave the pattern on the fenders, fish eggs !!! Clear coat tomorrow.
  17. Continued the bubble theme onto the front fenders, added some yellow highlights. Gonna add clear coats next. Pretty much decided I’m going to mask and airbrush Alclad chrome on the windshield/window frames. I’ll use Bare Metal on the tailgate chrome as there are no sharp curves. Gonna use the stock engine, already weathered the chassis. Interior will be pearl white and purple.
  18. Making some progress. Tamiya white pearl for the lower body, HOK silver flake for the roof with some Timothy Leary inspired graphics. Gonna do more on the fenders with various colored spheres and such. I'm thinking about trying the Mission Models clear. I have urethane but I'm afraid to use it without a hood and I lack one. Too many horror stories about urethanes and lung injury. Anybody try the water based clears?
  19. Marc Weller


    Love the car and love your model. Just great.
  20. Marc Weller

    Big Deuce

    I finished this 20 or so years ago. It's been in the NHRA Motorsports Museum since completion. I visit it occasionally along with all the other great models and 1:1 stuff in residence there. It's pretty much out of the box with the exception of the roll bar (aluminum welding rod), and Roth inspired tall shifter with the skull knob (probably from the Lil Coffin). I bought those tires, actually cast in rubber, from a guy in New York named George something or other. They cost $75 and I had to call him a million times before I finally received them. I airbrushed the whitewalls in white primer and they have yellowed very authentically over the years. When I was hanging out with Jocko he showed me a 1/8 scale Deuce 3W plug he had carved out of hardwood for this same individual. I'd love to know what happened to that piece !!
  • Create New...