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Everything posted by aurfalien

  1. I've built both the Monogram and Fujimi kits, they are simple (slot kit-ish) and turn out cool. Either will give you quick satisfaction However I preferred the Monogram body shape. I'd suggest picking up a set of aftermarket tires/wheels for either kit from here; https://www.modelbuilderswh.com/collections/wheels-tires/products/chapparel-wheels-and-tires-1-24th-scale The decal sheets will probably be wasted however I don't have a source for em. These kits offer a lot in terms of adding detail etc... all up to your desire and imagination. Here's one of mine, sadly it burned in a fire; https://imgbox.com/g/KBaYB2Kn0i
  2. https://www.modelbuilderswh.com/collections/resin-kits/products/hrm-101-cobra-daytona-coupe
  3. Hi all, I was curious if any one wouldn't mind posting the dimensions that I've outlined red? It's a real pretty engine.
  4. Wow, this thread multiplied over night, cool. I've decided to go with a solution a bit more versatile which uses my Shop Vac and oven. Less working parts to break as those will work for a very long time. It's 12"x12" with an adapter in the background (6"x6"?). * The unit pictured is by Pedro on Etsy. After some perusing, I believe his to be the best for this sort of approach.
  5. Wow, thank you kindly Mark, great advise. I did see a dental grade unit on Amazon for ~$130 but will look else where for variety. It's largest complaint was filament heat up time but it's not like I'm cranking out parts for distribution or anything. Thanks again.
  6. Esteemed builders and crafters extraordinaire, I've always wanted to get my hands on some sort of vacuforming machine for general hobby/crafts needs. So I'm reaching out to see what you would all look for in a used Mattel version? Basically advise similar to what one would give in used car shopping. I haven't really seen any new ones by other brands that I like but am searching. Thanks in advance.
  7. WOW!!! Looks smooth as butter. Very very nice! Looking forward to my hybrid of sorts Creos PS 290.
  8. I found this link very helpful; http://paulbudzik.com/miniature-spray-guns/miniature-spray-guns-pg-3.html
  9. Thanks Steve. I actually prefer this as less is more in my book.
  10. Thanks for the feedback, it helps quite a bit! I'm going with the Creos 290 as I'm sure that's what Steve meant. I've been eyeing it for a while now and might as well pull the trigger (pun intended). I still have my H&S Infinity which is a great art work type brush that I've used on my models before. But the over spray and narrow pattern even with a .4mm tip doesn't suite me well.
  11. Hello, I've been watching some of Paul Budziks videos where he mentions spray guns being a better choice for scale modeling then air brushes. His reasoning is very logical and compelling. So I was curious if any one agrees and how you adjust your spraying for things like Splash Plaints, True Color etc... which specify air brush needle sizes and PSI.
  12. Thanks Geoff, I did see those but have grown particular about my glues. I've found that both Zap and BSI are head and shoulders above the rest in terms of CA. However I'm wondering if a very small amount of print toner would do since I'm desiring a minor tint.
  13. Hi, I've a wonderful bottle of thin CA (Zap) that I'd love to have some sort of tint for application control. What I've read about tinting/coloring CA is that it either causes them to get thick, stringy, weak etc... Would any one happen to know how to do a slight tint so that I can more easily see it? Any color would do. * And Happy Fathers Day!
  14. Thanks Mike. Darn they sold. Oh well, kicking myself that I dropped mine. I'm looking at a pair of highly rated Gundam nippers. Thanks Chris. I've read that the GH are the gold standard. However a bit pricy for my budget. Thanks Joe. Welp, I don't have those but suspect I will once my honey do list requires them to do whatever my boss needs
  15. I dropped mine and they fell just right or just wrong depending on view point. The tip bend pretty darn badly rendering them useless. Attempts at repair has rendered them worse.
  16. My beloved Dspiae 2.0 sprue cutters broke. Would any one happen to have a U.S. source for them?
  17. Hi, Curious of any one has a good contact info for Paul Fisher. It seems that fisher@fishermodels.com is no longer valid. Thanks in advance.
  18. Now that's a marvelous idea, thank you sir!
  19. No worries, thats actually what I was planning. I've emailed Paul Fisher but don't expect a reply.
  20. Thanks JC. I was looking at them as was wondering what their nut side diameter is. Would you be able to measure?
  21. Hi, Would any one happen to know where I can get a wheel nut similar to the one pictured? It came with my Fisher kit that I am restoring and only have 3. It's close to 3.5mm in diameter and to me is the perfect wheel nut. Total bummer. Thanks in advance.
  22. So it's been over a year since I built anything and longer since posting anything of value to this rather fantastic forum. At any rate long story short, a few years back I had rubberized the body due to an alcohol bath and I don't mean Jack Daniels. At the time I thought to re enforce it with a combo of resin, styrene and super glue. While this did sort of work, the body always look warped. Recently I had soaked it in SuperClean which pretty much stripped it bare of all that junk. However what was left was a straight but rubber body. I had then soaked it in water over night in hopes to leach out any chemicals and then stuck it in the freezer. What was left was a noticeably stiffer (between slot car and styrene) and still straight body. I've decided to only used CA and recently ordered Milliput to work the model. While it's still pretty soft in areas, attaching it to the tub will give it more structure. Also of note is that the more I work it sanding etc... the more stiffer it seems to be getting. At any rate I am getting a lot of pride and sense of accomplishment restoring this wonderful Fisher kit. It will be a roadster.
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