The stewart car in Atlanta was not yours.... It was Jeremy Reidmueller's build. His has the correct black chassis. I know your chassis red. He and i roomed together and i got to see it in person. Gorgeous car as well.
And now the cool pics... Body/chassis pics!! I am also pleased that the front tires are mounted narrow enough that the front clip slides in place. My goal is the car can be closed up or opened up. Its on its way!!
I got over some "mountains" this week on the Daytona. My goal was to get the car sitting on all four corners without the Jig. Even though the jig is the sole reason I had success in getting the stance you will see here.
I hooked up my 4 links to the chassis using RB motion rod ends and K&S Aluminum tubing. I also turned some coil spring bodies on the lathe and wound some wire for springs. I made sure that when I glued the unit together that it was at the exact level for my tires to just fit perfectly.
I made sure my rear slicks were sanded perfectly smooth so as to not alter the level at which they sat against the suspension. At the same time I detailed them with good year eagle decals off the slixx drag goodie sheet. I also carefully painted the wheel beadlock with a black sharpie so the lock bolts stayed bare aluminum. Then I added a coat of future to seal them.
Once I had the rear suspension dialed in it was time to turn my attention to the front suspension. I snapped a quick phone picture of the front struts just after I made them on the lathe.
Next I made springs from wrapped wire and added them temporarily to the struts that were mocked up in their locations. The lower control arms were also made from RB motion Rod ends and K&S tubing meeting at the Strut cups. They were made with K&S tubing as well. Essentially the front end is completely scratch built except for the rod ends. I inserted #5 DM Hardline in the wheels, painted the ends and touched them to the lower strut bodies to mark them so I knew where to drill the struts for the wheel axles made from the #5 DM line. The tie rod end plates were milled from aluminum on my mill.
Since the Strut cups are not hollow on the bottom, I turned some caps and glued them in place making them look machined in the first place. Hollow tubing was easier to drill for the Control arm rods.
Once the front was done I slipped all the wheels and tires on and discovered all my hard work had paid off!! The car sits perfectly level.
Recently I have begun learning more about the mill.. I machined the fuel tank for the front of the car out of some 6061
Dirk showed me how to mill a side of the part, take it out of the vice, file it on a flat surface (I use the plate on my bench vise) and continue to each side. It took me about an hour to get the part done. I used a small end mill to add the groove (I don't have any slit saws yet). I also made the caps and learned from Dirk how to add precisely spaced detail, or holes, or whatever to a round part with the rotary. Its pretty easy to do actually and fun!
I also worked on my fab rear end for the car. Not everything will be dead on accurate to the real car. Chip ran a MW Rear end but no one makes one in 1/24 scale. Clay gave me this one from TEM. It will do I think. I used DM 4 link plates. Then I machined the hubs and filler cap. The hubs are not perfect but for a first try I can see what I have been missing. I will be doing more for sure!!!!
The rear diff should look good hooked up to the RB motion 4 links!
I built Mr Hendrick his son's winning supertruck and presented it to him in Oct of 2011. I snapped this picture. All those guys are fixed operations directors at his dealerships across the country.... It was a most memorable day for me...........
Think Rick Hendrick is thinking "too much clear" ??????
And yes.... I cleared OVER the decals on the build because they were alps decals and I did not want the ink rubbing off over time......
Come on Drew.... Jay saw the car in the flesh at Daytona USA where they put the 500 winner each year. I have seen it as well the car was completely cleared over. It was way to smooth for vinyl with barely any raised edges on anything. I also have pics of Gordon's 2005 winner at Daytona USA and it was the exact same way. MANY teams clear over the bodies on the super speedway tracks its a known fact.
So lets say the 1:1car your trying to accurately replicate has a nice gloss finish yet a bit of orange peel. How would you replicate that in say 1:24 scale?
You can't and it would not be seen in scale. This thread is mainly pointed at two part urethane builders such as myself. I have used it for years and use it safely. (Wearing a respirator and appropriate clothing) it gives me consistent results every time. It can be applied thinly but does not require the amount of polishing that lacquers do. The higher solid content helps prevent dieback as well. Of course an older cup or grand national car was not painted with this paint on the real deal and I do not clear over decals on older cars. Many times it all depends on the livery I am doing but if the car is mainly all decal it's going to get cleared. Why? Because the decal will not be glossy enough like a 1:1 vinyl decal job. On some decals you can buff or wax them to shine them up to look like the vinyl applications but not all can hold up to waxing. It's a personal decision but urethane can look like syrup or it can look to scale. It all depends on application. It takes time to dial in your system you are using.
Your statement Harry, is very good... Right or wrong it's the interpretation of the builder. But my point is other builders blatantly telling the builder that has painted his model with urethane or others that a model is too glossy is also an interpretation or opinion by that person. Does that make them right?