RT6PK

I had an '85 back in the day. I remember that it was easy to work on, which was good.... because it always needed to be worked on.

Just curious, will the kit come with a 4 speed or an automatic? I think Stricker ran a 4 speed.

Very nice work. It's a plessure to see young people in the hobby. I am sure you enjoyed the quality time with your daughter.

Very sharp. Great attention to detail.

Beautiful. Always good to see the Mopars represented.

Very nice detailing

All I really changed was the wheels and tires. Also, I had to tweak the suspension a little to get the stance right. This was my first attempt at simulating woodgrain.

Dumping the originals could be a gamble. Many years ago when AMT still existed, there was an ad hanging in a local hobby shop announcing "soon to released" kits from AMT. One of the kits was the '69 Dodge Coronet R/T. It was probably going to have the new (for that time) chassis that was used on the '68 Roar Runner and '70 Super Bee. I had 2 original MPC '69 Coronet R/T's that had been built but were both unpainted with nice chrome and the original boxes. They would have been very easy restorations. I sold them on Ebay for I think about $75.00 each. AMT went belly up, the Coronets never came out, and I was out 2 very nice originals. The other side of that is the Revell '30 Model A Coupe. The tooling was damaged and it was unknown if the kit would ever be seen again. Originals were showing up on Ebay for over $100.00 each. Then there was talk that the tooling was going to be repaired. I gambled and sold my 2 unbuilts on Ebay and did quite well.

Mike, what type of clear do you use?

Thanks for the replies. I used all Tamiya products; primer, paint, and clear coat. The polish was applied with a Tamiya polish application sponge, and it was buffed off with a Tamiya microfiber cloth. The clear coat was applied 5 day ago. Maybe that was not enough cure time?

I read a tutorial on painting years ago that I have followed with success. It goes as follows: Once the paint has dried, sand the color with 3600 grit. Apply 6 coats of Tamiya TS-13 clear gloss. After the clear dries, sand with 3200 grit, then 3600 grit, then 4000 grit, then 6000 grit. Polish with Novus #2. (this was not in the original article, I added this step) Polish with Tamiya "FINE" polishing compound. Polish with Tamiya "FINISH" polishing compound. I used this procedure on the red '48 Ford, (and many builds) shown below and was very happy with the results. For some reason, this procedure doesn't work anymore. See the blue '34 Ford pickup below. I cannot get rid of the "haze". I even polished through the clear coat and had to re-clear it. I am using the exact same procedure but I am NOT getting the same results. What am I doing wrong? Did Tamiya change the formula in their clear coat? This is very frustrating. HELP???

I've got a 68 charger that I want to convert to a 318 car like the one that my dad bought brand new. Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove the R/T emblem from the grill without messing up the fins on the grill?

Any word on which decals are coming with the cars? Or is it going to be a surprise?

These are freaking awesome. I cannot wait. I haven't anticipated a new model release this much since the Plymouth altered wheelbase and A990.

Can anybody tell me if anyone has ever made a 1/25 scale Mopar rat roaster intake manifold? As seen in the picture.

That's a good idea. I'm going to try it.

Thanks for all of the input guys. I ordered some of Tamiya stuff today. Jamie

Can anyone give me some insight on what you use and how do you accent front grilles with black so that it doesn't look like a solid piece of chrome plastic? For about 40 years now, I have always brushed on some flat or semi flat paint, then simply and very lightly wipe the excess off with a tissue. The left over paint would settle into the low crevices and the the chrome fins of the grille would shine through. Another method I have used was to let the paint dry, then lightly rub the paint off of the high spots with a tooth pick. Both of these methods have always worked for me. Well, I am working on the Moebius '65 Plymouth. The crevices are so shallow, that when I try to wipe the excess paint off, I end up taking it all out. Then I tried again with my second method and it looks even worse. Attached is a photo of what I am ending up with. So my question to everyone is what other methods are out there for detailing grilles?

You guys are killing me. That kit just came out. How do finish a build that quickly? It takes me months to finish one. Very nice work though. Looks great.

Does anyone have experience with Tamiya gloss clear? Will it turn yellow when sprayed over a white base coat? How about Testors clear gloss lacquer? Will it turn yellow over a white base coat?

This is the Monogram kit. It is not the most detailed, but it was right in my price range, (free). The paint is the factory color mixed up at a local auto body supply shop.

My uncle bought a brand new 1975 280Z. I was only 5 at time, but I remember the car vividly. I decided to replicate it. Special to Nigel (Spottedlaurel) for hooking me up with the wheels.

Thanks for the replies guys. Jim R. Is taking care of me.

Hi I just received my Richard Petty 72 Charger. The kid is actually packaged with the 73/74 Charger body (the rear side quarter windows are different). Did I get something that was mis- packaged? Or do they all have the incorrect body?

Does anyone have this Monogram Datsun 280Z? My question is regarding the bumpers. Do the bumpers have the bumper guards as shown on the box? I have several set of Monogram 280Z bumpers molded in both red, (presumably from this kit) and molded in yellow from the road race version. None of the bumpers that I have have the bumper guards though, (which I need to build a stock version). Any help would be greatly appreciated.