Miatatom
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Posts posted by Miatatom
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I'm new here and was wondering if there's a subject that discusses kits in general. Kit makers, their pluses and minuses, old kits, newer or re-released kits versus the original ones, quality of kits, details like ease of build, good or bad instructions, etc.
I've got about 12 kits so far and am building 2 at the moment. One is a Revell Peter Brock's Datsun 510. It's a decent kit with fairly good detail, good instructions and parts. The other is a SMER Alfa Romeo 158 Formula ! racer which isn't near the quality of the 510.
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Another icon gone. I watched a McHales Navy this morning. Sad.
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I use 1:1 Enamel reducer instead of lacquer thinner. The paint dries very quickly using the reducer, about 10 minutes. Fast enough for me to handle the parts. I also reduce the mixture by one third paint and two thirds reducer. This way I can lower the air pressure to 15-18 psi.
Dan
Dan, what kind of enamel reducer do you use? I've heard that using real automotive chemicals isn't good because they are too "Hot" for the plastic.
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Jason, that's beautiful work you are doing. I'm anxious to see the finished product. Maybe I'll be this skilled in time.
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It's definitely good therapy. Don't have the money and the old back won't let me work on real cars any longer. It's also neat to buy cars I could never afford and build them. I did have some fun times with a few full size projects.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v705/baddogracing/Cobra/?action=view¤t=right082704.jpg
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v705/baddogracing/?action=view¤t=Img_0379.jpg
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v705/baddogracing/?action=view¤t=royalerf.jpg
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If you want to see Andy like you've never seen him before, check out A Face in the Crowd. It's going to be shown on Turner Classic Movies on 7/6 at 1:45 AM. He is definitely not Sheriff Andy in this role. It really shows what a great actor he was.
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It's a sad day, isn't it. I still watch the reruns even though I've seen them hundreds of times.
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+1 for Fastback340 I give each month to the ASPCA. There are so many animals that are abused and/or homeless.
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Thanks for the info, guys!
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It's all Model Master/Testors enamel per Donn Yosts' suggestions.
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I've received two different orders of MM Clear and had a question. One looks like it's an older bottle and one looks newer. The older one looks like it's amber colored and the other is clearer. Is the amber one still good? My first model will have some white body panels and I don't want the clear to tint it.
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My eyes aren't what they used to be and I need a lot of light. My workbench area is OK in the lighting department but sometimes I just need more to be able to see small stuff better. I've got a Harbor Freight visor with 2 small lights on it but it's not enough. I've also got a lighted magnifying glass but it's an el cheapo and I'm not crazy about using it. I'd thought about a small spot light or maybe a visor light like this one:
http://www.hobbylinc...on/donlt-06.htm
What's everyone else using?
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I agree with Futurabat. I'm just on my first build in over 50 years and what he said seems to grasp what I'm thinking about my own builds.
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So sorry to hear of your loss.
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This is one on my list of future models to do. I'll be interested to see your results and impression of the kit.
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Congratulations to all of you above that have quit. I did so on June 3, 1972.
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What grit paper have you color sanded with? I have a polishing kit that starts with 3200,then goes to 3600,4000,6000,8000 and finally 12000. After that, I polish with polishing compound and then a coat of wax. Needless to say, I only polish when it's a have to case or it's a model I plan to show. Normally I color sand with 4000,then shoot a coat of clear over it.
I really haven't started doing it yet but I have a model with some specks of dust that needs some attention to look decent. I don't plan to enter any contests at this time and with my shaky hands probably never will. Just want it to look good. Sanding with 4K and clearing is probably the route I'll take. I used to use FinesseIt (sp) for compounding when I painted my vintage race cars (the real ones). I shooting Testors or MM enamels. What compounds does everyone use?
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I was wondering what everyone uses to rub out their paint after color sanding? Just elbow grease or something motorized? Is there anything like that available? I'd wondered if an electric toothbrush would work. The kind that has the orbital head. Cut the bristles off and glue a pad to it and then polish away. Does that sound stupid or what?
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Seems like the original box a model comes in is highly valued if it's in good condition. I guess I'm missing something here. What makes them so valuable?
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Thanks a lot, Donn.
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I'm mixing at 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner. The only car I've shot so far is white and red two tone (BRE Datsun) and it came out OK. A few dust specks. I haven't tried the lacquer thinner yet but I do have some left over from my days of racing and painting real cars. I'll try that with a higher PSI setting and see how it works.
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Some are saying to airbrush enamel at 15-20 PSI. Others quote Donn Yost as saying that 32 PSI is optimal. Who's right?
Food Dehydrators & Paint Dryers
in Model Building Questions and Answers
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I finished my drying box and got it calibrated today. I used 1/2" plywood. It's about 14" wide x 12" deep and 20" tall. I bought 2 receptacles and wired them in with the dimmer switch to be able to vary the amount of heat I'm putting into the box. I lined the box with some quilted material that is aluminized on one side. Had it left over from the Cobra I built a few years back. With the lining, I found I really only needed a single 60W incandescent bulb to generate enough heat to maintain 105 degrees. Here's a few pics.