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Hooper & Co Diorama


Anglia105E

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It appears that you are 3D printing with a resin printer.

The Thingiverse picture of the finished loco is nice and smooth where the individual 3D prints show very distinct layers.  Am I correct in assuming there will be a good deal of filling and sanding involved in the finished product?

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5 minutes ago, PHPaul said:

It appears that you are 3D printing with a resin printer.

The Thingiverse picture of the finished loco is nice and smooth where the individual 3D prints show very distinct layers.  Am I correct in assuming there will be a good deal of filling and sanding involved in the finished product?

Hi Paul . . . No, my 3D printer is not a resin printer, it is an A8 (PLA) type printer. I do get layer lines showing on the Z-axis with my printer, so when parts are placed vertically on edge on the build platform those layer lines are a problem. When the part is in the ' Lay Flat ' position, I get a much smoother finish to my printing, as the X-axis and the Y-axis don't have the layer lines issue. So yes, some sanding and filling will be required !  Well spotted !

David

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Huh.  I'd have sworn...

I print in PLA and rarely see that effect.  It may be my print orientation but I never really played around with that.  

I have tweaked various resolution and infill settings in the past.  Tends to really extend print times but the quality is greatly improved.  I generally start a print, watch long enough to be sure it's printing properly and then wander off and do something else.

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21 minutes ago, PHPaul said:

Huh.  I'd have sworn...

I print in PLA and rarely see that effect.  It may be my print orientation but I never really played around with that.  

I have tweaked various resolution and infill settings in the past.  Tends to really extend print times but the quality is greatly improved.  I generally start a print, watch long enough to be sure it's printing properly and then wander off and do something else.

Yeah, this has been a long running problem with my 3D printing, and I have tried all sorts of tweaks and adjustments to stop these unsightly layer lines, but nothing works. Many A8 users have said that the problem is Z-Wobble with the two upright threaded rods on this printer, so I printed a couple of anti-wobble bushes and fitted them to the top of each rod, but the layer lines continue. I have also tried many different settings in the Ultimaker Cura software in an attempt to produce smoother printed models, but no joy . . . My layers are set to 0.08 mm, and I don't think the nozzle jet can handle smaller than that figure.

I also make sure that the print run is going well, before leaving the printer unattended for long periods . . . such as 5 hours 30 minutes for example.

This A8 3D printer was assembled by myself from a large box of parts, and it was the cheapest Chinese printer on the market !

David

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2 hours ago, PHPaul said:

I have an Ender 3 Pro which may be part of the reason I get smoother results.

Something like an Ender 3 Pro or an Original Prusa i3 will certainly give you much smoother results than my home built cheapo A8, and this is a case of you get what you pay for . . . As 3D printing was a new technology for me, and I didn't know if I would use it much, I chose to go cheap. Now of course, I find myself wanting an Ender 3 Pro or a similar level Prusa  !

David

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I find my Ender was well worth the money.  They're out there for around $250USD which is pretty good compared to some of the higher end stuff.

I print a LOT of bits and pieces with it.  In fact, I'm on my 4th print today for the new addition to my farm diorama.  (Teaser, pix to follow when it's a little further along...)

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36 minutes ago, PHPaul said:

I find my Ender was well worth the money.  They're out there for around $250USD which is pretty good compared to some of the higher end stuff.

I print a LOT of bits and pieces with it.  In fact, I'm on my 4th print today for the new addition to my farm diorama.  (Teaser, pix to follow when it's a little further along...)

The price tag of $250USD is around £206.00 GBP, and I just found one on Ebay for £150.00 GBP ( see this link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/16032576950

David

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  • 2 weeks later...
Having 3D printed the 34 parts that I need to get started on the assembly of this steam loco, in 14 days, work has commenced, with good results so far. As you can see from the following photos, the boiler underside part was not fully printed properly, so I measured and cut two pieces of thin styrene sheet to make the part good. The two side frame parts have been joined together using four spacers, for which I used super glue and baking powder. After selecting one wheel and one driving rod, I then applied some red oxide primer by brush to these few parts.
For the top coat of paint I have purchased some Satin Black enamel, to be applied by brush over the red primer. The essential first step was to make sure that the frame sides are square, level and straight, so that when the three axles and six wheels are in place, everything will line up on top and this will also determine the track width.
It seems the super glue takes a long time to actually ' grab ' the two parts of PLA printed material, but the bond is stronger later. This is one reason why I chose to use the baking powder to increase the overall strength of the join.
 
David

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Looking good so far!

Are you going to "quarter" the drivers?  IE, pins on one side 90 degrees from the pins on the other side?  This is so the piston on one side or the other is not at Top (or Bottom) Dead Center.  If both are at TDC the engine won't be able to get the wheels moving.

 

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Thanks Paul . . . Yes, you are right to point this out, and the instructions on the designer's webpage show this 90° angle as being important.

Being very much a car person, my knowledge of steam locomotives is somewhat limited, so I would not have got this driving rod setup correct.

David

 

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The 1:43 scale Hooper & Co. factory diorama has been brought back onto the worktop, and alongside this baseboard, which is off to the right, there will be the O gauge railway line. The steam locomotive is being built to run on this track, with a 7-plank wagon and a brake van coupled.

The image of the map shows the Hooper factory, with Duke's Road to the left of the factory, then Masons Green Lane and then the railway line to the West.

This map shows the position of the factory as it was during the 1950's.

3D printed some further brakes parts today.

David

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I had a good feeling about this O gauge GWR coach, which was delivered today. I really like the coach and it photographs very well, especially within a diorama scene. This model is by LIMA of Italy, and it is in good original condition. 
The passenger coach will occupy the 36 inches of track, along with the steam loco assembled from 3D printed parts.
Here are some photos of this interesting model, which I am sure will be an important addition to the Hooper & Co. diorama.
 
David

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17 minutes ago, PHPaul said:

That works really well!  

Did you build the double-decker bus?

Thanks Paul . . . No, I cannot take credit for building the bus, as it is a 1:43 scale diecast RT London Bus by IXO with excellent detail.

There will be some photos of the loco shortly, alongside the GWR coach.

David

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The 3D printed steam locomotive, having been fully assembled from 42 parts that I have printed, then had one coat of oil based red primer applied. This was followed by one coat of water based satin black, and lastly one coat of a water based satin black / pure grey mix to create a ' dirty ' effect.

I placed the loco on the O gauge track, just ahead of the GWR brake end coach . . . Using daylight bulbs for lighting, and two figures for the composition, these are the first few test photos. I am quite pleased with the overall appearance of the 3D printed model loco, which needs some decals, and a two man crew of driver and fireman, arriving later this week.

The Hooper & Co. factory diorama in 1:43 scale ( O gauge ) will have a level crossing where the road meets the railway.

Hope you like it . . .

David

 

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The two white metal loco figures are almost done. One is the driver and the fireman has a separate shovel which I have super glued in place. Each figure has a coat of Humbrol enamel grey primer and then a coat of Vallejo acrylic for the detail. They may need a coat of Vallejo matt varnish because even gentle handling fetches the paint off in places.
In the following photos, there is a kneeling railway worker that I had already, and he has been professionally painted so not one of mine.
I have examined the decals in advance of applying them shortly, and I have picked up some handrail knobs in steel from Slater's . . . They were happy to refund me for the sleepers and chairs that I didn't use. I have some 0.3 mm brass rod for the handrails in 30 mm lengths.
Work is about to commence on the scratch built level crossing, which needs careful calculation.
 
David

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