Chrome plating services

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 minute ago, Bucky said:

If ill health is the main issue, it seems that, at the very least,  he would send the parts back to the folks so they could find an alternative solution.

Exactly.

A shoulder replacement isn't a life threatening incident that might leave an individual bed ridden, such as a heart condition or the like.

It's hardly an excuse to drop off of the face of the earth without at least notifying the individuals who's parts you have.

 

Steve

[KJ790]

13 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Molotow Ink has been discussed many times on the forum as an alternative to plated parts.

I believe that it has been pretty well argued that Molotow will never match the durability of true chrome.

That's why we've  been hearing more about products such as "Alsa Chrome" lately.

I use Molotow ink on a limited basis, but would personally never use it on large parts such as bumpers due to it's fragility.

Alsa Chrome seems to hold some promise as a durable chrome plating replacement should it become necessary.

 

 

 

Steve

I have airbrushed it onto quite a few pieces and have never had any issues handling it. Let it dry for a couple days and I just handle the parts with bare fingers, no fingerprints or anything. Alclad rubs off very easily, so when I am going for a more muted shine, I prefer Spaz Styx due to the durability. Personally I have not been overly impressed with what I have seen of Alsa chrome.

[StevenGuthmiller]

41 minutes ago, KJ790 said:

I have airbrushed it onto quite a few pieces and have never had any issues handling it. Let it dry for a couple days and I just handle the parts with bare fingers, no fingerprints or anything. Alclad rubs off very easily, so when I am going for a more muted shine, I prefer Spaz Styx due to the durability. Personally I have not been overly impressed with what I have seen of Alsa chrome.

My experience has been just the opposite.

I have had far better luck maintaining the finish on Alclad painted parts over Molotow.

I have panted small parts with Molotow ink, let them dry for well over a week, and still had loss of shine after handling the parts just long enough to install them.

As a general rule, when I do use Molotow, I have to touch it up, sometimes more than once, by the time the assembly is finished.

 

No mistake, Molotow ink is very useful for many applications.

I just don't think it's the magic bullet that many make it out to be.

And it's certainly no substitute for real chrome in my opinion.

 

I recently used Molotow and Alclad on interior parts like window cranks on different projects.

I had much better luck maintaining the finish on the Alclad parts.

 

The arm rests and window cranks on this door panel were finished with Alclad.

I'm certain that if I would have used Molotow, they would have required re-touching after installation.

 

 

 

These were finished with Molotow.

I had to touch them up after.

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

Edited July 11, 2019 by StevenGuthmiller

[KJ790]

1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

My experience has been just the opposite.

I have had far better luck maintaining the finish on Alclad painted parts over Molotow.

I have panted small parts with Molotow ink, let them dry for well over a week, and still had loss of shine after handling the parts just long enough to install them.

As a general rule, when I do use Molotow, I have to touch it up, sometimes more than once, by the time the assembly is finished.

 

No mistake, Molotow ink is very useful for many applications.

I just don't think it's the magic bullet that many make it out to be.

And it's certainly no substitute for real chrome in my opinion.

 

I recently used Molotow and Alclad on interior parts like window cranks on different projects.

I had much better luck maintaining the finish on the Alclad parts.

 

The arm rests and window cranks on this door panel were finished with Alclad.

I'm certain that if I would have used Molotow, they would have required re-touching after installation.

 

 

 

These were finished with Molotow.

I had to touch them up after.

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

That is odd, I wonder what the difference is. I have that issue when I use Molotow in the pen form, but never when airbrushed. I do not use any primer or base coat with the Molotow.

 

The wheel with the black hub is a Moebius kit part with kit chrome, the wheel with the blue hub is an aftermarket resin piece sprayed with Molotow (no primer or basecoat).

 

That resin wheel has been handled by tons of people, I leave it on my vendor table at shows as a sample for people to pick up and look at (I sell cast parts). It is a little worse for wear, but it still looks pretty good in person.

Edited July 11, 2019 by KJ790

[StevenGuthmiller]

5 minutes ago, KJ790 said:

I have that issue when I use Molotow in the pen form, but never when airbrushed.

I don't know what the difference would be.

It's still the same material, no matter the application method.

 

 

Steve

[ChrisBcritter]

Maybe the act of aerating the Molotow through the airbrush makes it dry more thoroughly?

[Jeffcad]

Hi guys !

Molotow ? yes, very good for small details, not good on big or plain surfaces...I know the other chrome stuff and options but never used any of them. Just wanna find somebody to do it.

Unfortunately I haven't received any news from Mr Horner of Little Motor Car Company, after my email sent to him a week ago.Indeed, It looks like he maybe have enough work to do... 

I'm stuck with my Cadillac bumpers and hubcaps....

Jeff.

[Greg Wann]

https://www.instagram.com/metalrys_chroming/

I just had a guy that I do work for send me this link.  The guy is in Poland.  He will do a 8X11 rack for $25.00 but postage is not cheap.

 

Greg

[DZ7581]

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but has anyone used modelcarchrome? It's the only service I could find, but I'm a bit hesitant to use them the last 2 reviews for them were not good....parts not returned or money not refunded.