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Createx Transparent for Candy Effects?


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2 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

I buff it with Formula 1 Scratch out, then dry buff to the luster I want. Took the haze right out in one application. I would think any really fine polishing liquid would do the same thing. The Scratch out is very fine, almost no grit really.

So easy to shoot with that #5 Paasche tip. You may or may not have seen where I mentioned thinning the 4050 35-40% with 4011. Stirred it real good, let the cup sit still for 3-4 minutes and shot it.  I flashed it off between coats but not as much as the yellow base. The yellow base I let go completely dull between coats. Everything leveled out beautifully when dry. I used 4030 and 4011 in the yellow, about 15% each. Very pleased, we will use this on the AMT 1/32 60 T- Bird. If I chicken out I do have pretty close to the same yellow in Tamiya acrylic gloss. But the Createx plus the 4030 over white primer is closer to the target color.

Thanks Dave.  Probably give it a try on next build if I can ever find the time to get this '66 Chevelle SS done.. I just bought Createx pearl red to try.

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1 hour ago, Dave G. said:

I buff it with Formula 1 Scratch out, then dry buff to the luster I want. Took the haze right out in one application. I would think any really fine polishing liquid would do the same thing. The Scratch out is very fine, almost no grit really.

So easy to shoot with that #5 Paasche tip. You may or may not have seen where I mentioned thinning the 4050 35-40% with 4011. Stirred it real good, let the cup sit still for 3-4 minutes and shot it.  I flashed it off between coats but not as much as the yellow base. The yellow base I let go completely dull between coats. Everything leveled out beautifully when dry. I used 4030 and 4011 in the yellow, about 15% each. Very pleased, we will use this on the AMT 1/32 60 T- Bird. If I chicken out I do have pretty close to the same yellow in Tamiya acrylic gloss. But the Createx plus the 4030 over white primer is closer to the target color.

Your thoughts on using 4030 1/1 with Candy2o then clearing over it with 4053 . 

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19 minutes ago, Jon Haigwood said:

4030 1/1 with Candy2o then clearing over it with 4053 . 

I'm not sure on the 4053, I do know that if you used 4050 you need a coat or two of 4040 bleed checker over the candy as the candy would probably rise right up through the clear otherwise. But where 4053 is not a carrier for the candy I'm not sure that would happen and I have not tried it. It would have to be tested. 4030 and 4050 are both used as Candy 2o carriers, 4053 is not. I can say that Candy 2o was made to have catalyzed clears put over it like 2K clear. I'm reasonably sure lacquer would work as well.

Those are my thoughts but I have no proof that 4053 could be used as top coat for the candy without 4040 bleed checker.

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For Jon or anyone interested: Update, I found the spec sheet for the UVLS clears and clarification on Jon's question, 4053 can be used over Candy 2o. It comes with some criteria though. They prefer two sessions, the first is two to three coats , then 4 hour cure time and then second 2-3 coats. No scuffing between coats unless 48 hours passes. If scuffing is needed they suggest a dry scuff with 600 sand paper for say dust spots or whatever.

On another note and you guys can wing it here but they recommend cleaning the airbrush with their cleaner or 4011.

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1 minute ago, TransAmMike said:

I have a question for you Dave about a 1:1 car issue knowing you have real car experience. Would you mind is I PM ya?

Go ahead Mike but I'm headed upstairs so the reply will probably be tomorrow. I've been out of 1/1 for a decade so hope I can help. Things change lol.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just wanted to update one thing on this Createx and my spraying. Where I had said I used the large tip on the Paasche H with great results, well I've since shot it with a Paasche VL both medium tip and small tip or known in the world of Paasche as the #3 (.73) and #1 (.55) also with good results but with more instant control. That's it, just updating.

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