my 70 chevelle ss Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 Good Afternoon, I'm working on a 68 Chevy Camaro (plastic) & bought a Grump Hump(Resin) from reliable resin for her. I know & am sorry for this being a stupid question!. I have the scoop soaking in Westley's tire white since yesterday now this is just the scoop. I have been told buy a guy who builds in resin that resin pieces have to soak for 2-3 days but he said the bodies is this true for small pieces also? Thank you! Will, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porky Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 Good Afternoon, I'm working on a 68 Chevy Camaro (plastic) & bought a Grump Hump(Resin) from reliable resin for her. I know & am sorry for this being a stupid question!. I have the scoop soaking in Westley's tire white since yesterday now this is just the scoop. I have been told buy a guy who builds in resin that resin pieces have to soak for 2-3 days but he said the bodies is this true for small pieces also? Thank you! Will, Hey Will, I use purple power to soak my resin parts in. Most of the time just over night and have heard some people say a few hours in it is enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astroracer Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 This is a really old wifes tale and should be dispensed with. I have never soaked a resin body in anything... All you need to do is wash the body the same as you would a plastic injection molded piece. I use really hot water and some degreaser dish soap. Scrub it well with a piece of gray ScotchBrite during the washing process and you are practically ready for primer. I have NEVER had an issue with fisheyes or mottling using this process... Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Woodruff Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 (edited) Guys the answer is it "depends". I always use Westly's Bleach White for 24 hours and that is plenty of time. Bob Downie prefers Easy Off oven cleaner "Original". As for castrol Super Clean/Purple Power you have to be careful because some resin has a negative raction to it an will make it soft. Edited March 15, 2010 by Len Woodruff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryK Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 Since I started prepping my kits before they go out the door I can tell you what works every time. First I clean off all the extraneous flash followed by a 24 hour soak in BLECHE-WITE. A scrub in WARM soapy water using a tooth brush is the next step. Use Hot water only if you want a warped part. Finally rinse the part(s) in warm water and blot surfaces to be painted with with lint free paper towels or a chamois to eliminate water spots. After you follow those steps there is one more thing that's very, very important. Don't handle your clean parts with your greasy mitts. Use some cheap medical gloves to place them on a paint stand, folded wire hanger or other holder. The rest of the process depends on your skill with a rattle can or air brush and the paint you use. Jerry Koszut resinrealm@yahoo.com 402-387-2882 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astroracer Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 I will play the devils advocate here. Everybody "says" you HAVE to soak your resin parts in this or that but, I have seen no legitimate REASON for it... Can anyone explain to me (and the rest of the guys here) WHY we have to soak resin parts in any kind of solution before painting? I need to know what this does to improve the painting process over simply washing the part in hot water with a degreaser. Notice I said "washing" NOT soaking, simply washing with hot water will NOT warp a body... I want a legitimate reason here. No "this guy told me I have too" stuff. Mark Smakal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Zoom Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 I will play the devils advocate here. Everybody "says" you HAVE to soak your resin parts in this or that but, I have seen no legitimate REASON for it... Can anyone explain to me (and the rest of the guys here) WHY we have to soak resin parts in any kind of solution before painting? I need to know what this does to improve the painting process over simply washing the part in hot water with a degreaser. Notice I said "washing" NOT soaking, simply washing with hot water will NOT warp a body... I want a legitimate reason here. No "this guy told me I have too" stuff. Mark Smakal That's easy. Silicone is used on the molds, so the parts have come in contact with silicone, and silicone is the bane of any painter. Some casters use a silicone-based mold release (which keeps their molds in good shape a lot longer). If the part feels at all greasy, normal methods to clean styrene will not work to clean the resin of the mold release, I learned this the hard way. Simple way to find out? Do a tape test. If after cleaning the part, if regular masking tape won't stick to the resin, it needs to be cleaned further. On a particularly greasy part that didn't like to be painted after I tried nearly everything in the book (Westley's didn't work, nor Naptha, nor wiping w/lacquer thinner, nor Dawn & warm water, nor Prep Sol, I found that Easy Off oven cleaner finally got all the mold release residue off and that the part could be painted without fisheyes. Most resin doesn't require this, but it happens enough that it never hurts to be safe...I give every resin body a quick soak with Easy Off, never a problem with either paint adhesion or fisheyes. Sometimes a problem won't appear until a builder tries to mask off for a two-tone, or remove excess bare metal foil, to find out the paint didn't stick to the resin well enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astroracer Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 DING! DING! DING! Silicone! Yes!!! Do you know what has silicone in it as one of its main ingredients? I’ll give you one guess… Did you know that scrubbing your model with TSP (trisodiumphosphate) and hot water will remove all traces of silicone? TSP is a cheap, hardware store available powder, which is used in the professional house painting industry to clean surfaces. I have used it for thirty years to wash down vehicles prior to sanding and doing body work. It DOES remove Armor All. Dawn dish soap does the same thing. I have used with excellent results for years. Believe me; you do not have to jump through all of those hoops when working with resin. Plastic injection molders use the same mold release and I don’t hear of anyone soaking their plastic bodies to remove the mold release… Mark Smakal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffb Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 here at motor city resin casters, we dont use any release agent. we just dust the molds with baby powder. that helps wick resin into the small spaces, and helps with "mold sweat"., even so, we still recomend at the minimum washing with a good dish soap to remove any surface comtaminents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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