Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

Yes, Cynoaccranate glues have a shelf life . I buy the least amount as needed and then , I try and buy from a dealer that has enough sense to "Rotate " their inventory as these glues do go bad , generally two years . Ed Shaver

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would go with Jerry on this; sounds like you may have mold release on the resin. Another hint- sand both mating surfaces for a better bond, and start out with a small amount of glue,until it sets-and then add more glue. I go through one or two tubes a week of superglue,and use it for everything from joining panels to filling pinholes to using it for bondo on large areas like roofs. I buy the cheap stuff at Walmart (4 tubes fer a dollar) and have never had it go bad (unless I left the lid off), but maybe I'm just lucky. One other tip....use accelerator,but don't spray it,use a toothpick to apply it,and be QUICK, or you will glue the toothpick to the item you are bonding. It will go a lot farther....(It ain't cheap ! )Steve Zimmerman aka the'Z'man

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. I have the nose taped and the glue applied. The glue I have is Loctite from Walmart. I have had it for at least two years, so it may have gone bad on me. I don't remember if I cleaned the resin or not. I did use some rough grit sand paper and hit both surfaces to be glued.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you clean the resin part with Bleach Wite or other cleanser?

I would go with Jerry on this; sounds like you may have mold release on the resin. Another hint- sand both mating surfaces for a better bond, and start out with a small amount of glue,until it sets-and then add more glue. I go through one or two tubes a week of superglue,and use it for everything from joining panels to filling pinholes to using it for bondo on large areas like roofs. I buy the cheap stuff at Walmart (4 tubes fer a dollar) and have never had it go bad (unless I left the lid off), but maybe I'm just lucky. One other tip....use accelerator,but don't spray it,use a toothpick to apply it,and be QUICK, or you will glue the toothpick to the item you are bonding. It will go a lot farther....(It ain't cheap ! )Steve Zimmerman aka the'Z'man

I gotta agree with these guys. I will add that one trick with resin is a good thorough cleaning done BEFORE any sanding or work is done. This will prevent mold release from geting on your tools and sandpaper causing all sorts of problems that show up later.......much later :blink:;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't remember if I cleaned the resin or not.

This might also be a problem when it comes time to paint the body, Ken....you might want to clean it now before you go too much farther.

If your current stash of super glue doesn't do what it's supposed to, I'd say either re-do the glue joint with fresh stuff or use 5-minute epoxy for the job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the tips guys!!!! I recleaned everything, rough sanded the joints again. Went to Wally world and got a fresh bottle of super glue. Retaped everything and applied the glue to the joints. I now have a joined nose to body. I will post a pic in the next few days to show what you all helped me accomplish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cyanoacrylates (CAs) have become the adhesive of choice for most hobby and household applications. High quality CAs such as INSTA-CUREâ„¢, when used properly, form bonds that in many cases are stronger than the material that is being adhered. INSTA-CUREâ„¢ is a highly refined CA which, combined with its freshness, gives a guaranteed 2 year shelf life. CAs are reactive monomers that chemically link (polymerize) when pressed into a thin film. The very thin layer of water moisture present on most surfaces acts as an alkali, or weak base, which is the catalyst that results in bonding; however, the presence of detectable amounts of water usually degrades the performance of CAs.

Thanks to Bob Smith Industries for these facts.....

http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Speaking of superglue, I like the 'thick' stuff from Mercury Adhesives. I have also used Zap. The thick stuff does clog in the tip. I try to prevent this by keeping it upright when not in use, as well as tapping it down when I do upright it after use, then I squeeze; wipe clean the tip, then let go.

Eventually it still clogs. I use drill bits in a pin vise to open it up, once it is dry. But last night, I couldn't get it opened, so I chucked a drill bit almost 1/16" and really opened it up using a moto tool! I had to continually clean the bit using a dental pick & acetone, but at least I got it opened up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...